Car idiling terrible.
Call my car weird, but I've had this "Cold Idle" problem ever since I installed my AEM intake and Cobb AP Stage 2 tune (both v1.04 and v1.06), and I don't know which is causing the rough idle. Thought it was bad gas, but it comes back occasionally.
The erratic idle (fluctuating up and down by 1000 rpms until the engine stalls) only occurs when the car has sat all day at work and is warming up while in stop & go traffic. Never for the morning commute, just after it's sat all day at work and I'm going home. And once the car is fully warmed up (about 5 miles), no idling issues at all. It's gets so bad sometimes that I have to turn on the A/C to even out the erratic idle and keep the engine from stalling.
The other thing I've noticed is I'm the type of person who puts the car in neutral way in advance of rolling to a stop, and this is when the erratic idle occurs. But when I keep the car in gear and engine brake into the last second before I come to a full stop, I don't have idle issues.
Weird, huh?
The erratic idle (fluctuating up and down by 1000 rpms until the engine stalls) only occurs when the car has sat all day at work and is warming up while in stop & go traffic. Never for the morning commute, just after it's sat all day at work and I'm going home. And once the car is fully warmed up (about 5 miles), no idling issues at all. It's gets so bad sometimes that I have to turn on the A/C to even out the erratic idle and keep the engine from stalling.
The other thing I've noticed is I'm the type of person who puts the car in neutral way in advance of rolling to a stop, and this is when the erratic idle occurs. But when I keep the car in gear and engine brake into the last second before I come to a full stop, I don't have idle issues.
Weird, huh?
ok, so just to ehe right of the dipstick, on the engine is a little metal rod thing that looks like it really wants to have a hose on it. question now is where is the vac line supposed to go from here so I can find it and connect it again.
nevermind my last post, my vac hose had slipped off. That's a real smart design on mitsu's part.
And about running lean..LOL...I wondered why my pipes wern't turning black for the last week or so.
Maybe pulling the vac line off was a good move, enabling lean spool and making my car a rocket ship.
And about running lean..LOL...I wondered why my pipes wern't turning black for the last week or so.
Maybe pulling the vac line off was a good move, enabling lean spool and making my car a rocket ship.
Im in the same boat, have the same problem. brought it to my inexperienced dealer about two months ago and waited 4 hours for them to tell me that they couldn't find anything in their mitsubishi database on a reflash, and that it must be common. I know its probably bs from their end but does anyone know if this reflash has a name or a reference code to provide to the dealer. Im just thinking my dealer is incompetent.
There are at least 2 TSBs for ECM reflashes, and a new reflash was released recently without a TSB. All they would have had to do was put your VIN into the computer and these TSBs would have been listed.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...formation.html
Edit: I see now that you have a 2010. There is a new reflash available, but no accompanying TSB. You'd have to talk them into connecting it to their MUT tool to see it. And that assumes they keep that tool up to date, since it was just released in the last week or so.
Last edited by gizmotoy; Jun 13, 2010 at 01:07 PM.
Call my car weird, but I've had this "Cold Idle" problem ever since I installed my AEM intake and Cobb AP Stage 2 tune (both v1.04 and v1.06), and I don't know which is causing the rough idle. Thought it was bad gas, but it comes back occasionally.
The erratic idle (fluctuating up and down by 1000 rpms until the engine stalls) only occurs when the car has sat all day at work and is warming up while in stop & go traffic. Never for the morning commute, just after it's sat all day at work and I'm going home. And once the car is fully warmed up (about 5 miles), no idling issues at all. It's gets so bad sometimes that I have to turn on the A/C to even out the erratic idle and keep the engine from stalling.
The other thing I've noticed is I'm the type of person who puts the car in neutral way in advance of rolling to a stop, and this is when the erratic idle occurs. But when I keep the car in gear and engine brake into the last second before I come to a full stop, I don't have idle issues.
Weird, huh?
The erratic idle (fluctuating up and down by 1000 rpms until the engine stalls) only occurs when the car has sat all day at work and is warming up while in stop & go traffic. Never for the morning commute, just after it's sat all day at work and I'm going home. And once the car is fully warmed up (about 5 miles), no idling issues at all. It's gets so bad sometimes that I have to turn on the A/C to even out the erratic idle and keep the engine from stalling.
The other thing I've noticed is I'm the type of person who puts the car in neutral way in advance of rolling to a stop, and this is when the erratic idle occurs. But when I keep the car in gear and engine brake into the last second before I come to a full stop, I don't have idle issues.
Weird, huh?
its on the front of the engine block. take ur block cover off, its simply pops on and off. you'll see a metal tube on the left side of the front of the block with an open end if your line has slipped off. get the little butterfly looking clips from autozone and attach it. got rid of my idle problem.
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SpyderBite
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Sep 5, 2008 05:17 PM




