AC blower stopped working
May 22, 2012, 06:20 PM
#16
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Thx man,I guess I'll take a shot at replacing the transistor.I heard that most 'bad' transistors would be corroded or have bad connectors that need to be soldered or cleaned out but honestly this one looks brand new.Since what initially happened was a seized shaft on the blower motor itself,I'm hoping that it blew out the transistor,but I don't see anything visually wrong with it,any suggestions?
Could it still be the resistor,I thought that at max speed setting,the resistor would be bypassed.
Just to recap,when I took out the blower motor,i could hardly turn the shaft,After cleaning and applying WD40, shaft turns smoothly,could the siezing cause the resistor to blow,and if it is faulty would that affect anything when being bypassed at max speed setting?thx guys
May 22, 2012, 07:51 PM
#17
By the way,motor blower doesn't turn even at max setting.
Could it still be the resistor,I thought that at max speed setting,the resistor would be bypassed.
Just to recap,when I took out the blower motor,i could hardly turn the shaft,After cleaning and applying WD40, shaft turns smoothly,could the siezing cause the resistor to blow,and if it is faulty would that affect anything when being bypassed at max speed setting?thx guys
Could it still be the resistor,I thought that at max speed setting,the resistor would be bypassed.
Just to recap,when I took out the blower motor,i could hardly turn the shaft,After cleaning and applying WD40, shaft turns smoothly,could the siezing cause the resistor to blow,and if it is faulty would that affect anything when being bypassed at max speed setting?thx guys
When this happened to me i search all over and this was one of the best info about the issue LINK
, Just change the thing and get your AC working again!!!
May 23, 2012, 06:35 AM
#18
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if you have a digital multimeter you can check the TRANSISTOR. Put the multimeter in dc voltage mode and put across the +12 and gnd of the transistor. With the fan speed in the off position, you should read 12 volts. If you see minus, it just means you have the polarity backwards, no big deal. When you turn the fan speed switch to any setting, the multimeter should display 0 volts. If you still read 12 volts then the transistor is bad and needs to be replaced.
Note, usually if the transistor goes bad, your fan will always be on because the junction has been short circuited. this is what happened to me a few years back and had it replaced under warranty.
Note, usually if the transistor goes bad, your fan will always be on because the junction has been short circuited. this is what happened to me a few years back and had it replaced under warranty.
May 23, 2012, 10:36 AM
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if you have a digital multimeter you can check the TRANSISTOR. Put the multimeter in dc voltage mode and put across the +12 and gnd of the transistor. With the fan speed in the off position, you should read 12 volts. If you see minus, it just means you have the polarity backwards, no big deal. When you turn the fan speed switch to any setting, the multimeter should display 0 volts. If you still read 12 volts then the transistor is bad and needs to be replaced.
Note, usually if the transistor goes bad, your fan will always be on because the junction has been short circuited. this is what happened to me a few years back and had it replaced under warranty.
Note, usually if the transistor goes bad, your fan will always be on because the junction has been short circuited. this is what happened to me a few years back and had it replaced under warranty.
At least the problem is solved, will try looking around Toronto for surplus parts,thx again for all your info
Last edited by Tris711; May 23, 2012 at 01:16 PM. Reason: spelling errors lol
Jul 19, 2016, 07:34 AM
#23
Replacing the resistor made air start blowing again but the AC didn't come back with it. Anyone know if there's something I might have knocked loose that would do this? I'm going to check all the related fuses when I'm off work, any suggestions are helpful as I prepare for a long road trip tomorrow!
Feb 28, 2019, 07:00 AM
#24
2010 Ralliart Blower Motor/Fan
Hey whats up everybody. Im a new owner of a 2010 ralliart with 68k miles. I'm pretty psyched to get this thing fixed up and making a nasty ride. First on my list is the fan. Symptoms are no fan power at all. I checked the fuse. 30A blown fuse. I replaced the fuse, still no power. I pulled out the cabin air filter and found a mouse nest and a lot of moisture. I replaced the air filter and cleaned the nest out. The nest was preventing ANY movement of the blower motor. After cleaning, the blower motor now moves freely and the fuse is new and intact. Still no fan at all. Am I missing anything before I buy a new blower motor? Thanks for any help in advance. I'm glad I found this forum!
Feb 28, 2019, 07:10 AM
#25
2010 Ralliart Blower Motor/Fan
Hey whats up everybody. Im a new owner of a 2010 ralliart with 68k miles. I'm pretty psyched to get this thing fixed up and making a nasty ride. First on my list is the fan. Symptoms are no fan power at all. I checked the fuse. 30A blown fuse. I replaced the fuse, still no power. I pulled out the cabin air filter and found a mouse nest and a lot of moisture. I replaced the air filter and cleaned the nest out. The nest was preventing ANY movement of the blower motor. After cleaning, the blower motor now moves freely and the fuse is new and intact. Still no fan at all. Am I missing anything before I buy a new blower motor? Thanks for any help in advance. I'm glad I found this forum!
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