HELP! EVO Will Not Start
HELP! EVO Will Not Start
Hey Folks,
Hopefully someone can give me some input here. I have an 08 GSR, 39,XXX miles, only mods are Eibach springs and DC Sports cat back exhaust. I only drive the car a couple times a week, as I have a commuter, and it has been over a week since i drove it. This AM I went to start it and it started for a couple seconds with the RPM's bouncing around 200 then it died. I tried to re-start it and it kept cranking like a ****, but would not turn over. Finally, I pushed it out of the driveway and let it roll down the street to compression start it. That worked fine and it drove to work OK......... I got to work, shut it off, then it re-started like no problem. I do not want to get stuck anywhere..........does anyone have any ideas what the issues is?
Thanks
Hopefully someone can give me some input here. I have an 08 GSR, 39,XXX miles, only mods are Eibach springs and DC Sports cat back exhaust. I only drive the car a couple times a week, as I have a commuter, and it has been over a week since i drove it. This AM I went to start it and it started for a couple seconds with the RPM's bouncing around 200 then it died. I tried to re-start it and it kept cranking like a ****, but would not turn over. Finally, I pushed it out of the driveway and let it roll down the street to compression start it. That worked fine and it drove to work OK......... I got to work, shut it off, then it re-started like no problem. I do not want to get stuck anywhere..........does anyone have any ideas what the issues is?
Thanks
Mine only did this once it was tuned wrong and flooded my motor with fuel upon startup.
Since your not tunes. How about checking fuel relays etc?
Car ran mint when it did start? Eliminates the FPR hose pop off scenario
Since your not tunes. How about checking fuel relays etc?
Car ran mint when it did start? Eliminates the FPR hose pop off scenario
UPDATE: So my mechanic called, as I left it there before work, and said it started no problem and he re-started it over the coarse of an hour with no issues?? He is gonna give it a once over, but it started no problem for him? WTF? I dont want to get stuck anywhere...............
i came across this problem every once in a while. i'll notice that it takes a couple cranks before it kicks on. it only does it on cold starts. like when you first start it for the day. i chalk it up as the battery being in the back. cause my civic did the same when i relocated the battery to the back. has not left me stranded though. (the evo that is)
i came across this problem every once in a while. i'll notice that it takes a couple cranks before it kicks on. it only does it on cold starts. like when you first start it for the day. i chalk it up as the battery being in the back. cause my civic did the same when i relocated the battery to the back. has not left me stranded though. (the evo that is)
I would check your relays.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...not-start.html
The same thing happened to me. I thought it was the battery, I replaced it and the problem persisted. I finally got in contact with Razorlab and he checked my relays and found the relays were the cause.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...not-start.html
The same thing happened to me. I thought it was the battery, I replaced it and the problem persisted. I finally got in contact with Razorlab and he checked my relays and found the relays were the cause.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
Last edited by flipflop; Nov 29, 2012 at 03:39 PM.
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The battery is still in the back of the car is what he's getting at. Because the battery is away from the starter there's more wire, because there's more wire, there's more resistance.
My guess is it has more to due with the fact the battery is a low cold-cranking amp battery. Especially since the temperatures have started to decline. Less heat means the battery is holding less amperage.
It's why I guessed the battery.
My guess is it has more to due with the fact the battery is a low cold-cranking amp battery. Especially since the temperatures have started to decline. Less heat means the battery is holding less amperage.
It's why I guessed the battery.
I would check your relays.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...not-start.html
The same thing happened to me. I thought it was the battery, I replaced it and the problem persisted. I finally got in contact with Razorlab and he checked my relays and found the relays were the cause.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...not-start.html
The same thing happened to me. I thought it was the battery, I replaced it and the problem persisted. I finally got in contact with Razorlab and he checked my relays and found the relays were the cause.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
The battery is still in the back of the car is what he's getting at. Because the battery is away from the starter there's more wire, because there's more wire, there's more resistance.
My guess is it has more to due with the fact the battery is a low cold-cranking amp battery. Especially since the temperatures have started to decline. Less heat means the battery is holding less amperage.
It's why I guessed the battery.
My guess is it has more to due with the fact the battery is a low cold-cranking amp battery. Especially since the temperatures have started to decline. Less heat means the battery is holding less amperage.
It's why I guessed the battery.
Also the resistance of a metal increases the colder it is (until you reach a critical temperature at which point it can superconduct
Its not that the battery holds less amps, but rather that it can't deliver big enough a load. Cold weather slows down the rate of most chemical reactions (batteries included). Thus in the cold, the internal chemical reactions are not proceeding as fast as they would in warm weather.
Also the resistance of a metal increases the colder it is (until you reach a critical temperature at which point it can superconduct
Also the resistance of a metal increases the colder it is (until you reach a critical temperature at which point it can superconduct
It's been about 8 or 9 years since I took E-Mag (aka Engineering Physics 3) as part of my degree program, but I believe you are incorrect about your resistance/conductance statement
Conductivity is the inverse of resistivity. The greater the conductance, the lower the resistance.
(sigma) = 1/(rho prime)
As you lower the temperature of a metal you decrease the thermal motion of the ions that are passing covalent electrons. This increases the field density and faster power transition occurs. When you reach the critical temperature of a metal or material it super-conducts, and the transition of power through the metal becomes nearly frictionless and can keep going without more energy needing to be added.
It's not the case of the resistance goes up higher and higher as it's colder then hits absolute zero and suddenly the resistance drops to nothing and the conductivity goes through the roof.
In my defense, I failed the class 2 times and passed it on the third attempt. Ended up settling with my degree in CompSci instead of Electrical Engineering like I wanted
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