For those of you with ACD pump failures (merged)
Removing? Have you done much driving of an X with an open center and open rear? Pull the fuse and try it for a while before you suggest removing the pump.
Even if you intend to replace the rear diff with a mechanical (which is what is done for rally), you'll still have an open center and that will suh ... um ... be lousy.
Even if you intend to replace the rear diff with a mechanical (which is what is done for rally), you'll still have an open center and that will suh ... um ... be lousy.
I'm at around 72k miles.. I daily drive my Evo, even in the Michigan salty winters. I get an underbody wash weekly when they salt the roads. Knock on wood, mine is still holding up. It is however making a little louder whining noise than usual in my first few turns I make when the car is still warming up. No codes thrown and it still appears to be working. I now have a truck to drive in the snow, so I will be causing less wear and tear on the pump.
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 34
Likes: 1
From: Norfolk, Virginia
yeah mine is busted, and from how common of a problem i have started to see this is, its ridiculous that the only options are rebuild kits or spend $2,000 for a new one! any ideas apart from filing that complaint?
Looking at the fuse box from in front of the car, it's the really big black relay on the left side, about three-quarters of the way towards the windshield. Its label (on the back of the lid) is AYC PTC.
Last edited by Iowa999; Feb 12, 2014 at 10:12 AM.
I successfully rebuilt my pump using the kit sold by ACD Tuning.
Make sure you purchase the testing/bleeding tool he offers as well, there is no way to bleed the system correctly without it.
The bleeding process is not as hard as it seems like it will be, there is a great post over on evoxforums that explains how to do it.
Make sure you purchase the testing/bleeding tool he offers as well, there is no way to bleed the system correctly without it.
The bleeding process is not as hard as it seems like it will be, there is a great post over on evoxforums that explains how to do it.
I had mine replaced at 35K miles under warranty. I was told I was lucky because they covered it under the bumper to bumper and it wasn't covered under the drivetrain that goes up to 50K miles. I'm guessing the cause was cold weather because it failed on a sub zero day. The new one is fine and I'm currently at 82K and we have had days around 0 degrees Fahrenheit or lower plenty.
Evolving Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 186
Likes: 2
From: Newtown, CT
Yeah, so I got a reflash at the dealership and it seemed to fix it, sort of. It just flashes every so often and the comes back to life. Has this happened to anyone else? Only warm weather seems to make it flash, cold weather doesn't seem to kill it.
When the fluid is cold, it's less likely to leak behind the plate inside the pump. As soon as it warms up, it leaks and throws the code. If this is true for your pump, then the cold-start reflash won't do squat.
In other words, your pump is (probably) what I call mostly dead. Not all dead. Just mostly dead.
In other words, your pump is (probably) what I call mostly dead. Not all dead. Just mostly dead.