Corporate Mitsubishi also told me when I called them just over a year ago asking what they were doing about all the ACD pumps failing and they told me that they were unaware of any pump problems...quite shocking really that no one has told them.


I know these are long threads, but you might want to read through this thread completely and also look at the AYC/ACD pump failure threads so then you will be informed enough to tell corporate Mitsubishi that the larger amount of pumps failed here were March-September which are not really the coldest months of the year last time I checked. Please ask them to explain that.


I believed on some parts as you did initially because there's so much wrong info out there, until I understood it and then got involved in the relocation kits for our cars where I've done much research and checked the stats everywhere possible. I believe that Mitsubishi initially (without really checking the problem out thoroughly) had the faulty belief that the thicker fluids cause more strain on the motor, which could make some sense if you don't research the actual problem/just assume, and came up with their cold reflash delaying motor start until the fluid warmed in theory. The Mitsubishi service guys that I know who first hand work on the cars say that the pumps always fail even after reflash anyways, so delaying the start of the pump doesn't work so it has little to do with the cold. The reason pumps fail is as we've tried to explain to you numerous times and in numerous ways is from corrosion and that process started on all our cars on the boat ride from Japan...the motor on the pump is frequently the last thing to fail so that's why many can just use the rebuild kits (the motor would fail first if cold were the factor) and yes the motor will definitely fail as it burns out staying on too long trying to build up pressure in a pump that's damaged and warped FROM CORROSION. I give up trying to explain anything further because maybe I'm not explaining it right to you so you can understand.

 

There's a difference between what Mitsu "knows" and what is said by the person who answers the phone.

With that said, my understanding of what happens to the pumps matches yours. The plate in the pump-body fails first, due to corrosion, and then the motor kills itself. This is why the current best suggestion to those who have a pump that recently failed is to unplug it if you aren't going to fix it soon. This increases the chance that you'll only have to replace the plate in the pump-body and not have to get an entirely new pump (since you cannot buy just the motor from Mitsu).

 

If the pump is out, how can one tell if the motor has failed?

 

Feed it 12V and see if it spins. It's really that straight-forward.

 

Why is there no better fluid for the pump that does not gel in cold temperatures?

 

It isn't the fluid that is the problem; it is the corrosion mainly from the salt put down on the roads during winter. My IX had this issue crop up last summer with under 30K miles. After several talks and emails with Mitsubishi, they agreed to pay for the part. I just had to pay to have the dealer install it and it had to be dealer installed.

 

As a follow-up to the above reply, on what basis do you say that the fluid is gelling? It's just ATF, you know.

 

There is. Where I live up here in Alberta Canada we all use this stuff. Its on redline fluids.com.

its call atf3 D4. check it out. Noones had a pump failure since using it.

 

The pump relocation kit looks so legit, I'm 100% getting one of these. IMO a 'must-have' mod. Hell... Mitsu should take notice and do it at the factory.

 

How much data are we talking about here?

This seems incredibly unlikely, given what causes the pumps to fail. The only possibility that would explain it - on the assumption that this is real - is that there is something in the Redline ATF that inhibits corrosion.

 

given that its a mix of cold and corrosion. it doesn't inhibit corrosion. it just has a lower freeze point. put a pump guard on or make one and its golden.

 

its because of corrosion and its been happening since the evo 8. if they didnt do anything about it for all the complaints of evo 8 and 9 failures good luck with them doing anything for the 10.

 

at least 5 guys I know of for 1-2 years.
When was I avoiding the question

 

That's not long enough for any study. Corrosion is damaging your pump which is the cause of almost all failures and therefore has little to do with the cold. I don't know if the new fluid may help get you through the winter with the lower freezing rate reducing pressure on an already damaged pump, and it may, but by spring there won't be anything to stop your lights from coming on when your pump is dying from corrosion. The idea of the shield may also help some, but you also have to know that salt and moisture in the air get into every crook and cranny...having the pump enclosed under the car will prevent the pump from drying out so your pump is going to corrode regardless.
I also looked to use these fluids a while back and may try them in the future, but do know, that using anything other than OEM will void any warranty if that matters to you. IMO, from understanding how this all works, your pumps will inevitably fail from corrosion without warranty...may be a big risk for some.

 

I'm still working my way through all the pages of this, but I came across this post. Not car related, but I remember in 2007 when my R1 was the new model. US production bikes were having lag issues in 2nd gear around 5,500 RPM's. Even compliant after compliant you'd still get someone from Yamaha saying, "I've never heard of this issue". It took several months for this matter to get resolved, and Yamaha eventually determined it was the ECU. So every bike with this issue had to go in, get tested for the issue, and then was given a new ECU.

My point in all that I stated already. You'll have people playing dumb as if they've never heard of the issue. Yes, it's quite annoying.