So I'm trying to get to the bottom of things. I will start by saying that the spool is just terrible, it takes quite sometime to spool and when it does the car just don't have any power. I've noticed the boost falls quickly if I don't stay on the throttle.

I have checked everything visually ( couplers, intercooler and intercooler pipes for cracks ). My car is completely stock other than exhaust, cobb xle bpv, MBC.

I think my wastegate may be leaking boost but im not for certain.

Boost leak test will be done later today.

Any idea's?

 

An open wastegate would leak exhaust which would then cause lower boost. Is that what you meant or were you referring to the diverter valve? In any event, either of these could cause your symptoms. An actual boost leak bad enough to cause your symptoms would have probably thrown a code.

 

Car isn't throwing any codes. Diverter valve, what is that?

 

He's referring to your bypass valve, or blowoff valve. People call it different things. On our cars it doesn't blow off, it recirculates the air back in to the intake system. This is why people refer to it as a diverter valve or bypass valve. It's the circular piece directly above your turbo inlet hose. it's about midway across the turbo inlet hose and there's a hose that connects the turbo inlet hose to the bottom of the diverter valve. There's also a hose that goes from the front of it (towards the front of car) directly to the lower intercooler pipe for reference.

 

Oops, I just looked at your mods. on your car diverter valve=Cobb XLE BOV

 

well I did the test post turbo ( hooked into the upper intercooler pipe ), everything sounded good. I did not hear any leaks.

 

It shows in your mod list you have a Cobb AP. You should drive around with it hooked up and be on the boost/vac page on your AP. Go through the gears and see if you're hitting your boost targets. It says your running stage 2 SF +93 and I think that map targets 24-25 psi. If you're not hitting that you definitely have a boost leak somewhere. We have an AP on my wife's mazdaspeed6 and it's helped me troubleshoot a bunch of different issues.

 

Yea, I will do that in a few and post a log.

 

Sounds good. You can go into ATR on your computer and look at your boost targets section to verify what boost you should be hitting with your current map.

 

I got the log, I turned my boost all the way down. I wanted to see if maybe there was something wrong with my MBC. To me the car just doesn't feel like it is making power down low but up top the thing pulls like a ****ing beast! I don't get it. I may have to result to a pro tune.

Here is the log.

Number 1.txt

 

It's kinda hard to see if you're hitting your boost targets if you turn your boost down. I was implying you just look at ATR to see what boost you should be hitting and then drive to see if you hit those numbers. I wouldn't resort to going to get a pro tune if your car is not acting right. Your car is not supposed to have problems when you get a tune. And most likely it is not a tune related problem. This sounds like a mechanical issue. I've had problems like yours on our speed6 when the couplers for the fmic would get a small hole in them. Check all your couplers again and feel around the whole coupler. They might look fine but they expand under boost, and when they do the smallest hole will cause problems like you're describing. I mean, even little stress fractures will expand to the point where you'll feel a loss of boost. And check the hoses going to your MBC for little cracks too, you could have a leak from one of those.