First time poster, at my last straws and hoping for some help.

I have a 2010 Evo X GSR Manual. It is stock all around. I am not unfamiliar with a wrench, having worked on all my cars in the past, but this particular issue is too much for me.

A few months ago, summer started in Arizona and I noticed my A/C wasn't producing the frigid cold that I was accustom to for the past few summers. I have never had an AC issue in the past, so I researched it a bit and decided to follow instructions on a do it yourself top off. I kept reading the pressure on the low side and knew where it should hit, expecting the AC clutch to kick in and as I filled it, it never was reaching the mark and the clutch wasn't engaging. The instructions told that if the AC wasn't engaging with an audible pop, then you should will need to fill it enough before it will activate. Long story short, I emptied the can. It again got cold when I used the AC, so I was happy, but it would switch to being super on to hot and humid, especially not turning cold when on the highway.

After this, I decided a shop could probably figure out my issue better than me since AC seemed to be such a closed/technical system which needed special tools I shouldn't buy. Well I took it to a very well respected shop, they told me I had burst a line (not metal, but fabric mesh rubber kind) and they should replace it. I knew I probably caused it with the amateur top off and probably overdid it, so I agreed. They got the part and replaced it, put in some new coolant and gave it back to me saying that the AC high pressure line wasn't getting to where they wanted it and the cooling was insufficient. They recommended a new AC compressor and I gawked at the total cost ($3K parts labor) and decided to take it home for a bit.

I looked up the parts online and found some suppliers through Amazon (thinking if the parts were poor, I'd return) and got a new compressor for $250 direct for a Chinese manufacturer and also the expansion valve + drier. I wanted to test the parts so I installed them myself and they fit great. I looked into evacuating and filling the AC coolant myself but when I saw all the equipment needed, I decided to let the shop do it for me. I made sure not to let the AC get turned on until I took it to the shop.

So give it to the shop, ask for a flush, fill up the AC oil, evacuation and replace of the coolant. Long story short, the work was done, they tested the AC and it again had a low high pressure reading. They blamed me for getting bad parts and recommended a new compressor from the dealer. I decided to take it home at this point and hope to find another cause.

All in all, before any work was done, and after all the work so far was done, the car has the exact same behavior. So I am hoping there is a 3rd party problem. I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this and/or any tips.

Right now the behavior is: AC compressor engages, air cools off a bit, but not completely. Driver side vents are 10-20F cooler than passenger side, at times the driver side is cool and the passenger warmer than outside. On the highway is the worst cooling, with a 100F day AC producing warmer air than outside. Best AC (which isn't too good) is at surface street commuting (30-45 MPH).

My instinct is that potentially a pressure sensor or relay is malfunctioning, but before I go any farther, I wanted to put it out there in the community. I really do not want another round of expensive repairs to get a net nothing benefit.

THANKS

 

Sounds like you have a leak somewhere. A shop should be able to find the leak with dyed refrigerant, repair it, and recharge the system.

 

Update: I went to do some more of my own diagnostics. I located the service manuals online and did some relay testing and fuse inspection. Everything seemed okay. I got a manifold to check the pressures on the high and low side, and the readings were depressing. Low was ~55 PSI and High was 120 PSI at 95F Ambient temperatures. According to the manual the pressures should be L 45-72 PSI and H 193-312 PSI.

Also, when the car has been running a bit, I can hear a "pssssh" sound as the RPMs get higher. It is an intermittent sound which will last for fractions of a second, then sound normal. The faster the RPMs, the more often it "psssh"es.

If the compressor is defective, the parts supplier I used was http://thecompressorwarehouse.com/pr...TCW24159%2E6T2 . Has anyone used them before, good/bad?

Does anyone know of another reason a new compressor would have a low compression?

 

The shop I took it to installed dye and already checked for leaks. No luck...

 

My system isn't that bad but when it's hot outside and I use my AC I smell coolent after a few hours driving so I turn it off.I got some service done recently from the dealer,they said my compressor probably needed to be changed.$1300 for the part plus about 4 hours labor was what I was told.I haven't been able to get another estimate from another dealer yet.

 

Most likely the compressor. Sometimes you get a defective one. Just like with any other part. I know. It SUCKS. I've been there. Not on this car. But at work.

 

why don't you take it to the dealership?

what happened with mine was that it would only cool to a certain point. There was a hairline fracture from my aftermarket FMIC rubbing against my AC condenser. So as soon as pressure built up to where the crack was, it would psssssss out and not get any colder.

I think a rock or something went through your condenser, and this is already way overcomplicated.

 

Yep-- I picked up a used compressor of the forum here for 150.00 after mine literally cracked going down the road.. Replaced it and the drier and evac'd it refilled. Been fine for a few yrs now.

 

this happened to me as well. Did you take it to the dealership? and does anyone know if 3yr/36k would cover this?

 

^The 3/36 is bumper to bumper... So... Yes.

 

in my case there was no warranty because I poked the hole in it myself.

otherwise, it would have been warranty, yes.