Yes, also some urethane diff mounts will help with response too.
Get everything stiff and your Car eventually becomes one with the road :-)

 

The filter that K&N makes, the Typhoon, is a very good drop in filter. Relatively cheap to, $400. They have some documentation that shows that you dont necessarily need a tune to get gains with it, although it wont hurt. I cant say much for other SRI's, I've only ever had good experiences with K&N on my other vehicles.

 

My first mod was a ETS Intake. It's not hard to install and it uses the stock MAF so you don't have to get tuned to use it. ETS makes good quality products and all my bolt ons are from them.

 

Cobb Accessport - you can look at their various maps and get the supporting mods as they describe to expand your mod list at whatever speed you like

 

Unless you've taken some form of driving school above the typical drivers Ed, I would say first mod should be driver. A lot of people have no idea what these cars are capable of in their stock form. I'm not saying this is you, just my 2¢.

 

I just got a used '14 and did a drop in filter and off the shelf COBB stage 1 tune. Made a slight difference but not very noticeable. Next I plan on doing AMS downpipe, high flow cat and cat back, then UCIP and LCIP. Then will adjust with the appropriate COBB off the shelf tune. I want to make as much power as possible but still have a reliable daily driver that I don't have to worry about.

Can someone explain why adding a boost controller into the mix will help? I am under the impression that the ECU in the car determines safe boost levels.. What am I missing??

Sorry for the noob question..

Thanks in advance.

 

I second the suggestion for the Driver Mod. It is always good to learn the limits of your car by attending AutoX or Lapping events. Once you get good enough to reach the limits of your car you will know exactly what you want/need to modify. Plus this way you get to learn the strengths/weaknesses of your car first hand, rather than from quoting magazine articles and forum posts.

 

I was in the same boat as you, I bought my Evo new and wanted light mods because it was my DD and I didn't want to **** it up. So I did a lot of research and came to these conclusions.

First, drive your car stock, it is a different beast then any other car and you must learn to drive it and take note of anything that is different or slightly off. Rattles, grinds, rpms bouncing or randomly surging. Just get used to everything and mold your driving style to suit those things.

First 500 km, keep the revs below 5000, then after hit redline. Have fun, drive to redline, open that ***** up and seal all the seals. Ppl may argue this, so I'll add this is just my opinion and has worked well for me.

Go buy a dry high flow filter. HKS is the brand I use, Cobb has one too. Change that and engine oil at around 2000km. You will feel a slight difference in power with the filter, you will also hear the BOV a bit more. If you have the Cobb AP, you're stage 1 now!

Now drive the car 5000km before you start to mod. You've got a choice, mod all at once and get a pro tune, or mod in stages and get a Cobb AP. Having the AP even if you decide to protune is still useful. You can save your stock map for warranty reasons or resale, you have a few guages and can data log easy. You can also save many maps on it and switch them in less then a minute.

First mod, Cat Back Exhaust. Not too much power with just a CBE, but it will feel much nicer and sound better to. Then get a High Flow Cat or a Test Pipe. The Test Pipe will be louder and it will smell more. You don't really need a downpipe at this point, some people say it's not necessary until you switch turbos, but if you really want to, go ahead, you should also consider a wideband now. Now flash Cobb Stage 2 map and enjoy what feels like a whole new car!

This is where I'd stop if you're really worried about your car, but if you're like me, you'll be happy with this for a year but will crave more. I'm still at the point where I don't want to do too many mods, but I have a few more in mind. UICP to sex up my engine bay and better throttle response, a 3 port EBCS for my pro tune, and wheels/lowering springs.

If you want to do a bit more tho, intake, and intercooler and piping should suffice. I would not trust OTS maps anymore, so go get tuned!!

You don't need to change your BOV. In fact if you were to change it from recirc to VTA, you might run into problems. The stock BOV, Intake, Downpipe, intercooler and lower IC piping are all right and don't need to be modded unless youre looking for over 300awhp. I would spend my money on wheels, and all the tires you will go through, some interior and exterior refining, and lowering springs. Coilovers are unecessary unless you track, and IMO only go with Swift Springs lowering springs.

There's a lot more you can find on this forum, but if you have a question, ask google and read everything!

Oh and don't cheap out on parts, buy new, buy brand name.

 

Read this, Frankiago answers your question
http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40512#/forumsite/3330/topics/40512