After pulling fuel pump relay, car starts right up! Help!
#1
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
After pulling fuel pump relay, car starts right up! Help!
Attachment 326619
My 2014 Evo X GSR has been having problems recently that it sometimes cranks but won't start. It happens in hot weather, especially when the engine bay is hot. Even when it starts, it often struggles at first to reach idle RPM.
The stock fuel pump relay (M) has endured 29,600 miles, so it's the usual suspect. I have taken several relays off for the salt shaker test. All other relays are quiet, but the fuel pump relay (M) indeed has something loose inside and sounds like a salt shaker (). Interesting enough, however, when I removed the fuel pump relay (M), the car starts right up. Not sure why, but maybe the relay actually restricts the fuel pump, instead of enabling the fuel pump? Anyway, I have temporarily switched the location of high beam relay (G) and fuel pump relay (M) as a quick and dirty fix.
So here are my questions:
1. Can I actually drive without the fuel pump relay (M), i.e. with slot (M) empty? Could it damage or wear out the fuel pump? lol...
2. I'm planning on buying a couple of replacement relays, one will replace the bad one, another one as a backup just in case. Can I put the back-up relay in slot (F), which is for the headlight washer (I think it could be legally required in some markets. USDM Evo's come from the factory with this slot empty)? Could the relay be damaged in this slot?
Thanks in advance!!!
P.S. I've also done a few other tests:
Removed relay (N) - Car won't crank, leading me to believe that this is probably the starter motor relay.
Removed relay (G) - Low beam works, but I cannot turn on high bream anymore. It stays at low beam.
Put a non-salt-shaker relay in slot (M) - Car starts right up.
Put a salt-shaker relay in slot (M) - Car cranks but won't start mostly. Sometimes it might start after many tries. Even when it starts, the engine struggles to reach idle RPM. Experiences power loss when driving.
Leave slot (M) empty - Car starts right up. This is most confusing part for me. Not sure if sorcery or a program glitch in the Matrix.
Well, unfortunately we can say now that the new Panasonic relays (part number 8627A030) are not really bulletproof like many, including me, have previously speculated. It lasted 2 years or around 30,000 miles for me. I don't know how the new grey MFI relay (part number MR400709) keeps up at this point, as mine (knock on wood) hasn't gone south for now.
As Mike W at Road Race Engineering reported back in 2011, the fuel pump relay on our cars simply deteriorates prematurally:
^At barely 4,000 miles
^First sign going bad
^Worn, but still working
^He's dead, Jim!
(Source: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...open-pics.html)
^As deanob posted, Mitsubishi service bulletin recommends replacing old black relay MR588567 or green replay 8627A011 with the blue relay 8627A024, as well as replacing the old black multiport fuel injection (MFI) relay with the grey MFI relay MR400709 (comes stock with 2014+ model year Evo's).
I'm now wondering whether the blue relay 8627A024 (recommended by the bulletin) or the new Panasonic black relay 8627A030 is the better choice. The Panasonic black lasted only ~30,000 miles for me.
At last, here is what 98930EVO has recently summarized.
My 2014 Evo X GSR has been having problems recently that it sometimes cranks but won't start. It happens in hot weather, especially when the engine bay is hot. Even when it starts, it often struggles at first to reach idle RPM.
The stock fuel pump relay (M) has endured 29,600 miles, so it's the usual suspect. I have taken several relays off for the salt shaker test. All other relays are quiet, but the fuel pump relay (M) indeed has something loose inside and sounds like a salt shaker (). Interesting enough, however, when I removed the fuel pump relay (M), the car starts right up. Not sure why, but maybe the relay actually restricts the fuel pump, instead of enabling the fuel pump? Anyway, I have temporarily switched the location of high beam relay (G) and fuel pump relay (M) as a quick and dirty fix.
So here are my questions:
1. Can I actually drive without the fuel pump relay (M), i.e. with slot (M) empty? Could it damage or wear out the fuel pump? lol...
2. I'm planning on buying a couple of replacement relays, one will replace the bad one, another one as a backup just in case. Can I put the back-up relay in slot (F), which is for the headlight washer (I think it could be legally required in some markets. USDM Evo's come from the factory with this slot empty)? Could the relay be damaged in this slot?
Thanks in advance!!!
P.S. I've also done a few other tests:
Removed relay (N) - Car won't crank, leading me to believe that this is probably the starter motor relay.
Removed relay (G) - Low beam works, but I cannot turn on high bream anymore. It stays at low beam.
Put a non-salt-shaker relay in slot (M) - Car starts right up.
Put a salt-shaker relay in slot (M) - Car cranks but won't start mostly. Sometimes it might start after many tries. Even when it starts, the engine struggles to reach idle RPM. Experiences power loss when driving.
Leave slot (M) empty - Car starts right up. This is most confusing part for me. Not sure if sorcery or a program glitch in the Matrix.
Well, unfortunately we can say now that the new Panasonic relays (part number 8627A030) are not really bulletproof like many, including me, have previously speculated. It lasted 2 years or around 30,000 miles for me. I don't know how the new grey MFI relay (part number MR400709) keeps up at this point, as mine (knock on wood) hasn't gone south for now.
As Mike W at Road Race Engineering reported back in 2011, the fuel pump relay on our cars simply deteriorates prematurally:
^At barely 4,000 miles
^First sign going bad
^Worn, but still working
^He's dead, Jim!
(Source: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...open-pics.html)
^As deanob posted, Mitsubishi service bulletin recommends replacing old black relay MR588567 or green replay 8627A011 with the blue relay 8627A024, as well as replacing the old black multiport fuel injection (MFI) relay with the grey MFI relay MR400709 (comes stock with 2014+ model year Evo's).
I'm now wondering whether the blue relay 8627A024 (recommended by the bulletin) or the new Panasonic black relay 8627A030 is the better choice. The Panasonic black lasted only ~30,000 miles for me.
At last, here is what 98930EVO has recently summarized.
Originally Posted by 98930EVO
Although the Evo X tuning community has known about this problem for years now, we want to put a friendly reminder out there to our forum-going Evo X owners to check your fuel pump relays. If your relay is a short black unit as pictured below and your car is a 2008-2010 model year, it is probably already bad. Regardless, you must absolutely replace the pictured relay if it's a short black unit.
It is absolutely critical to replace the fuel pump relay as highlighted in the photo above. Since this relay controls the high-low voltage crossover of the fuel pump, having it go bad can cause the fuel pump to only run at low voltage instead of +12 V at WOT. Depending on your tune or chosen COBB Off-the-Shelf map - or factory tune - your car can run leaner than intended under full boost, anywhere from 11.5 AFR to 14 AFR. This is a definite recipe for a blown motor and something not even the best detonation/knock detection algorithm could prevent.
Relay Reference
Bad - if you have this short black relay in the position marked above you need to replace it.
Good - if you have a green relay in the position marked above you're probably good.
Better - the blue relay was the second recommended revision from Mitsubishi - OEM P/N 8627A024
Best - this is the newest recommended OEM relay from Mitsubishi - OEM P/N MR122409
* New Panasonic relay is available, more information to come if it's found to be an improvement or recommended by MMNA
If you indeed have the short black relay (the "bad" one) you can quickly verify it has failed by pulling it out and giving it a shake. If it sounds like it's filled with sand, it's definitely bad.
It should also be noted that Mitsubishi and other tuners recommend replacing a total of 5 relays in your engine bay fuse box. We also agree that this is a best practice, but the most critical relay to replace is the fuel pump relay as it's most prone to failure being the relay that experiences the most cycles during normal operation.
More Reading
A better way to check if the relay is bad: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-how-t...-test.html
Here is a forum thread showing evidence of failure in the original black relay: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-engin...-pics.html
Buy a full set of updated relays from Kozmic Motorsports: http://kozmicmotorsports.com/product/oem...-package-/
It is absolutely critical to replace the fuel pump relay as highlighted in the photo above. Since this relay controls the high-low voltage crossover of the fuel pump, having it go bad can cause the fuel pump to only run at low voltage instead of +12 V at WOT. Depending on your tune or chosen COBB Off-the-Shelf map - or factory tune - your car can run leaner than intended under full boost, anywhere from 11.5 AFR to 14 AFR. This is a definite recipe for a blown motor and something not even the best detonation/knock detection algorithm could prevent.
Relay Reference
Bad - if you have this short black relay in the position marked above you need to replace it.
Good - if you have a green relay in the position marked above you're probably good.
Better - the blue relay was the second recommended revision from Mitsubishi - OEM P/N 8627A024
Best - this is the newest recommended OEM relay from Mitsubishi - OEM P/N MR122409
* New Panasonic relay is available, more information to come if it's found to be an improvement or recommended by MMNA
If you indeed have the short black relay (the "bad" one) you can quickly verify it has failed by pulling it out and giving it a shake. If it sounds like it's filled with sand, it's definitely bad.
It should also be noted that Mitsubishi and other tuners recommend replacing a total of 5 relays in your engine bay fuse box. We also agree that this is a best practice, but the most critical relay to replace is the fuel pump relay as it's most prone to failure being the relay that experiences the most cycles during normal operation.
More Reading
A better way to check if the relay is bad: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-how-t...-test.html
Here is a forum thread showing evidence of failure in the original black relay: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-engin...-pics.html
Buy a full set of updated relays from Kozmic Motorsports: http://kozmicmotorsports.com/product/oem...-package-/
Last edited by Lightsaber; Aug 17, 2016 at 05:33 PM.
#2
Evolved Member
I have no idea, but thanks for your work here. Where did you order your relays from?
It seems like the choice now is MR122409 (updated OMRON black) or Panasonic Orange/Yellow . The Large grey MR400709 stays the same.
Last edited by moparfan; Aug 18, 2016 at 12:04 AM.
#3
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
My educated guess is that 8627A024, 8627A030, and 8627A049 are all viable relays for the Evo. I think their lifespans in the fuel pump relay slot are supposed to be the same: around 30,000 miles. I also think that the problem is simply that an engineering college intern at Mitsu chose the wrong socket size for the fuel pump relay, which goes through so many cycles and he or she should have given it a much bigger socket to receive a much more durable relay. I also had an interesting conversation with the top dog at the dealer's service department. He told me even the updated relays at the fuel pump slot should be changed every 50,000 km (~30,000 miles), regardless of symptoms. It's simply not worth it to wait for it to break.
All post-recall or post-2014-model-year relays, when not in the fuel pump slot, are perfectly fine, because they simply don't go through that many cycles.
Even the older relays might be just okay in all the other slots. In the fuel pump slot, they could fail very quickly and it's indeed wise to replace them with a newer one ASAP.
Speaking of why I can start my car with the fuel pump slot empty, I have no idea, but I speculate it does make the engine run lean under boost, just like having a bad relay there. Therefore, I have been running with a good relay (taken from high beam slot) in that slot and I advise you and everyone not to adventure with an empty fuel pump slot.
In the long run, the wideband god might be our only salvation:
Also, here is an earlier bulletin issued by Mitsubishi in January, 2010:
Last edited by Lightsaber; Aug 20, 2016 at 07:49 PM.
#4
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
#7
Evolved Member
Thread Starter
Trending Topics
#8
My 2014 Evo X GSR has been having problems recently that it sometimes cranks but won't start. It happens in hot weather, especially when the engine bay is hot. Even when it starts, it often struggles at first to reach idle RPM.
The stock fuel pump relay (M) has endured 29,600 miles, so it's the usual suspect. I have taken several relays off for the salt shaker test. All other relays are quiet, but the fuel pump relay (M) indeed has something loose inside and sounds like a salt shaker (). Interesting enough, however, when I removed the fuel pump relay (M), the car starts right up. Not sure why, but maybe the relay actually restricts the fuel pump, instead of enabling the fuel pump? Anyway, I have temporarily switched the location of high beam relay (G) and fuel pump relay (M) as a quick and dirty fix.
So here are my questions:
1. Can I actually drive without the fuel pump relay (M), i.e. with slot (M) empty? Could it damage or wear out the fuel pump? lol...
The stock fuel pump relay (M) has endured 29,600 miles, so it's the usual suspect. I have taken several relays off for the salt shaker test. All other relays are quiet, but the fuel pump relay (M) indeed has something loose inside and sounds like a salt shaker (). Interesting enough, however, when I removed the fuel pump relay (M), the car starts right up. Not sure why, but maybe the relay actually restricts the fuel pump, instead of enabling the fuel pump? Anyway, I have temporarily switched the location of high beam relay (G) and fuel pump relay (M) as a quick and dirty fix.
So here are my questions:
1. Can I actually drive without the fuel pump relay (M), i.e. with slot (M) empty? Could it damage or wear out the fuel pump? lol...
Since this relay controls the high-low voltage crossover of the fuel pump, having it go bad can cause the fuel pump to only run at low voltage instead of +12 V at WOT.
This is a very informative thread so I'm just bumping it up.
Last edited by oblivionis; Apr 4, 2018 at 08:36 AM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Lightsaber
Evo X General
12
Feb 27, 2022 06:22 PM
LVSBB6
Evo X General
390
Sep 23, 2013 02:29 PM
SmurfZilla
Evo Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
7
Feb 3, 2012 11:32 PM
Chris@AMS
Automotosports - Illinois
20
Apr 29, 2010 03:55 PM