I have cobb uicp+bpv set , so i don't think those would colapse

 

Not likely like to be honest. However 3 things need to be 100% checked and rechecked here..

1. the air box need to be checked to make sure it is sealed at the bottom. Even if the box is sealed at the top the bottom can still be apart b/c its a crappy joint design like interlocking fingers..
2. All of the polyurethane sleeves need to be checked for leaks.. this could be slits, cracks ect ect.
3. By only changing the upper pipe you have taken some of the expansion out of the system where before the stock rubber sections expanded upwards of an inch in diameter. with that being said you have have putt more pressure on the LICP so you need to also check those and yes that means you need to pull the bumper to check the fitting on the cold side of you IC itself...

If this doesn't fix it them you need to have a leak test done. or request that Mistu do a factory re-flash on the car to maybe fix some bad cells in your fuel map in the ECU... HOWEVER if that's the case then WTF Mistu!!! stock cars should not have gaps in the fuel map that's for sure but, you never know!

 

ALrigt man, I will check and double check everything hahaha, thanks for all the tips and the time you have taken to help out. Evox84 you are awesome. Will update if anything changes.

 

in for updates

 

@ flashme_evo, I forgot to add that some people spray hairspray on the Poly sleeve before they put them on to add a little something to hold them in place. I have ETS upper and lower pipe and I have NOT done this myself but you might want to look into it if you keep having issues or find out that something was loose or undone somewhere. HOWEVER, you need to let that stuff dry overnight and make sure all the fumes are gone before starting the car.... If you have ever done the child trick of "hey look I can make fire with hairspray" then you will understand why I'm saying to let it sit over night. However once again some people done wait LOL.

Also, just because you have the newer fuel relay doesn't mean it cannot be bad from the start.. I'm going to guess its good however I believe you can take your horn relay and swap them as a test. I believe there is a thread out there on here about this very thing with people having issues with stock car falling on their faces when the fuel system is being maxed on under power.

keep us updated so we can keep trying different things!

 

That will be something to consider doing, I will take my time on Saturday or Sunday and check everything again, will also check the relay thing as well. Yesterday drove all day no problems, today drove it for like 20 min to work and there it was, out of nowhere, and like always, when I shifted to second gear at around 2.5-3k rpms. It's driving me crazy man. Again , thanks a lot for all the tips and help. Will update once I check everything and see if the problem continues. Also I did kept the synapse dv bov, but when I took it off I ordered the yellow spring (softer to eliminate flutter) it's gonna be here in a couple of days, so I will probably put it back on with the new spring and new vacuum lines and see how it goes.

 

Hey guys, do any of you think his waste gate could be getting stuck and messing with thinks? I know if the gate is open it bleeds boost so if its getting stuck open then everything would go to crap at that low of RPMs.... what are the chances that his gate is getting stuck open here and there and when shifts the change in RPMs closes it? I know this is a stretch forsure but i bet the dealer didn't think to look at that.

 

Okay I went back to an old post that i remembered sounded a lot like this (see below for the issues this person was having) turns out his issue was fixed with some new plugs.... might want to also try that or pull them and see what they look like.....