Bought a used, built Evo.
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Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 110
Likes: 6
From: Iowa
Bought a used, built Evo.
Title says it, I found a used modified Evo for sale at a dealership in Florida for a steal, did a little research, and it turns out a member from this board owned it.
I have a formal education in automotive diagnostics and performance, however I don't have anyone in my social circle familiar with the Evolution. I'm the "import" guy, coming from the RSX community.
The car I bought turned out to be this one: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/market/748841
So far, everything seems the same, however it has 1700CC injectors, running on pump gas, I only have 91 available.
I think this car at some point was on E85 given the injector size.
I have a single code that throws if it idles for awhile p0300, and idle AFR wanders between 12:1 to off the scale on the AEM UEGO with a frequency of about 8 seconds from rich to lean. It's stalled a few times in the weeks I've had it at idle, when it goes lean.
I intend to tune the car myself with evoscan, because it idles at 12.5% fuel trims, even with the 20F temps it's currently running in.
Long story short, being new to this car, is there anything I should be checking or pay special attention to that's more important to an Evolution than other vehicles?
I have a formal education in automotive diagnostics and performance, however I don't have anyone in my social circle familiar with the Evolution. I'm the "import" guy, coming from the RSX community.
The car I bought turned out to be this one: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/market/748841
So far, everything seems the same, however it has 1700CC injectors, running on pump gas, I only have 91 available.
I think this car at some point was on E85 given the injector size.
I have a single code that throws if it idles for awhile p0300, and idle AFR wanders between 12:1 to off the scale on the AEM UEGO with a frequency of about 8 seconds from rich to lean. It's stalled a few times in the weeks I've had it at idle, when it goes lean.
I intend to tune the car myself with evoscan, because it idles at 12.5% fuel trims, even with the 20F temps it's currently running in.
Long story short, being new to this car, is there anything I should be checking or pay special attention to that's more important to an Evolution than other vehicles?
Last edited by Warhawker; Dec 21, 2019 at 08:49 PM.
Evolved Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 805
Likes: 110
From: Vancouver, BC
If I were you, I might favor a protune by such reputable shops like AMS or IveyTune, even if I have a formal education. Evo X's tuning has a bit of niche tricks needed to keep the engine safe. However, if you have ample experience tuning 4G63Ts and the likes, this shouldn't be too alien to you.
Being an Evo X owner since 2014, I find Mitsubishi's onboard diagnostic system to be rather comprehensive. The dash properly pops a warning light for most real issues (although for ETACS TPMS deleted cars, poping "AWD System Service Required" light for an under-inflated tire might be a little comical). Some other things like brake pads have built-in indicators that generate a mechanical noise to attract your attention. The only problem for which it should pop a warning light but does not is when the fuel-air mixture is running lean, such as caused by a bad fuel pump relay or disconnected fuel pressure regulator (FPR) hose.
My understanding is that Mitsubishi chose an improperly sized relay for the fuel pump, which goes thru orders of magnitude more cycles than things like the headlights. Most Evo X owners and technicians recommend replacing that relay with a new one periodically. Opinions range from once every 3 months to once every 2 years.
The FPR hose can be zip-tied to prevent it from popping off under boost. In the long run, to counter the rubber losing elasticity, I would consider replacing it with a silicone one. Its interior diameter (ID) is 3mm, length is 18mm (source: Size for FPR hose).
My understanding is that Mitsubishi chose an improperly sized relay for the fuel pump, which goes thru orders of magnitude more cycles than things like the headlights. Most Evo X owners and technicians recommend replacing that relay with a new one periodically. Opinions range from once every 3 months to once every 2 years.
The FPR hose can be zip-tied to prevent it from popping off under boost. In the long run, to counter the rubber losing elasticity, I would consider replacing it with a silicone one. Its interior diameter (ID) is 3mm, length is 18mm (source: Size for FPR hose).
Thread Starter
Evolving Member
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 110
Likes: 6
From: Iowa
If I were you, I might favor a protune by such reputable shops like AMS or IveyTune, even if I have a formal education. Evo X's tuning has a bit of niche tricks needed to keep the engine safe. However, if you have ample experience tuning 4G63Ts and the likes, this shouldn't be too alien to you.
Being an Evo X owner since 2014, I find Mitsubishi's onboard diagnostic system to be rather comprehensive. The dash properly pops a warning light for most real issues (although for ETACS TPMS deleted cars, poping "AWD System Service Required" light for an under-inflated tire might be a little comical). Some other things like brake pads have built-in indicators that generate a mechanical noise to attract your attention. The only problem for which it should pop a warning light but does not is when the fuel-air mixture is running lean, such as caused by a bad fuel pump relay or disconnected fuel pressure regulator (FPR) hose.
My understanding is that Mitsubishi chose an improperly sized relay for the fuel pump, which goes thru orders of magnitude more cycles than things like the headlights. Most Evo X owners and technicians recommend replacing that relay with a new one periodically. Opinions range from once every 3 months to once every 2 years.
The FPR hose can be zip-tied to prevent it from popping off under boost. In the long run, to counter the rubber losing elasticity, I would consider replacing it with a silicone one. Its interior diameter (ID) is 3mm, length is 18mm (source: Size for FPR hose).
Being an Evo X owner since 2014, I find Mitsubishi's onboard diagnostic system to be rather comprehensive. The dash properly pops a warning light for most real issues (although for ETACS TPMS deleted cars, poping "AWD System Service Required" light for an under-inflated tire might be a little comical). Some other things like brake pads have built-in indicators that generate a mechanical noise to attract your attention. The only problem for which it should pop a warning light but does not is when the fuel-air mixture is running lean, such as caused by a bad fuel pump relay or disconnected fuel pressure regulator (FPR) hose.
My understanding is that Mitsubishi chose an improperly sized relay for the fuel pump, which goes thru orders of magnitude more cycles than things like the headlights. Most Evo X owners and technicians recommend replacing that relay with a new one periodically. Opinions range from once every 3 months to once every 2 years.
The FPR hose can be zip-tied to prevent it from popping off under boost. In the long run, to counter the rubber losing elasticity, I would consider replacing it with a silicone one. Its interior diameter (ID) is 3mm, length is 18mm (source: Size for FPR hose).
Yea the relays are annoying since it is a small simple part, but need to be replaced every year or so to make sure it is ok.
Given the crazy mod list, I would agree and take it to a very good shop near you to have it looked over and tuned, and then you can keep up with it from there.
Given the crazy mod list, I would agree and take it to a very good shop near you to have it looked over and tuned, and then you can keep up with it from there.
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