Continually worked on my car during the holiday season and finished the front lower control arm bar.
I am trying to replica cusco one, but it's hard to do so without welding and properly bending. So I tried my best to make a workable version with less effort and no deletion or modification to the existing components.
The final version looks like this:




And the undertray can still fit after removing four clips at the rear end, I used two zipties to mount it to the brace.




The clearance should be kept unchanged, since it's not the lowest part.

It's basically a square.




With two spacers and fittings to bolt on the lower control arm.







Also some adjustments to fit into the position.




Since it's exposed to the elements, it needs to be properly painted with rust proof.




The plate mounting the lower control arms has tons of holes to bolt on the entire thing.

 

Ha I want to see what you've come up with this time. But the pictures aren't working for me.

 

LOL, I can never upload the attachments correctly.

 

You're not far from a decent looking piece! I applaud your efforts given what you have at your disposal. Trim/grind away the parts that stick out past where they need to and then take it someplace to have it all welded together. Then you can ditch the bolts too!
As it sits, if there's any actual load on that brace, the bolts won't be enough to keep the brace from shifting which will negate its purpose. Welding it up/having it welded will make it far more functional.

 

Agreed, have it welded and cleaned up. Looks good though, I love when people take the time to
make stuff instead of just buying everything out of a catalog

 

Another masterwork by user Zijie He! I could tell as soon as I saw the two duct taped bars that this piece meant business. You even painted the duct tape! What incredible attention to detail. Most people would look at this and think "that has the structural integrity of a wet cardboard box" but I want to commend you on the true genius of this ballast adding piece of art. Bravo sir, I look forward to your future endeavors.

 

Some updates after several-days driving, since the two shorter / driving-direction bars have not been bolted on to the subframe or welded on to other pieces, they may randomly vibrate like crazy. I tend to believe they do not provide extra stiffness as the lower control arms and the bushings won't hold strength in the direction. So I just deleted them.
The bars actually made a quite noticeable difference, especially after the installation of the rear strut bar.

It's definitely better to have it welded, but a welder seems too much for me to invest. Maybe I can try low temperature welding rods or jb weld next time. I am not too concern about the bar itself though. The joints are built by 1/2 in tube and 3/8 in bolts, their combination should be even stronger than the 3/4 square tubes. (I am not an expert here, just a very random guess. But in general, the bars are extremely over-engineered.)

The duct tape - indeed the water proof tape, serves the purpose to prevent water from entering the square bar. The rear bar needs to be cut some 1/8 thinner to fit the subframe.

 

It's not a complex part or a lot of welds. Just sand down the joints you want welded and then you can get someone at a muffler shop to weld that up for you for $20-40. Alternately, beginner fabricators and side-job types put their services up on Facebook and Craigslist all the time.

 

Oh, that's interesting, will take a look.

 

Absolute "E" for effort but as noted, those hinge points are just that! Not to mention the fastener rust that will take place

If you want a lower bar, Cusco, Carbing & others make them.

Its my opinion that you will not / cant notice the difference between having one or not. If you were tracking heavily i could see installing one but if youre just DD'n & HPDE then one will never notice the diff

 

Making turns at 40+ mph