DRIVETRAIN PROBLEM! dealer?
DRIVETRAIN PROBLEM! dealer?
Hi guys.
A couple months ago, I had a drivetrain fluids service at a dealership A (tranny, t case, rear diff etc). Yesterday, I heard a loud clunk/pop while on the highway followed by "disconnecting" of the drivetrain. Throttle input would raise RPMs but power would not be put down. Initially thought it was the clutch. Clutch pedal works normally and all gears 1-5+R work normally. The car is "stuck" and has resistance to move any distance forward or backwards while on all 4 wheels. Had it towed to the nearest mitsu dealership and they found that the drain bolt from the front diff is missing.
Original dealer claims they didn't drain the front diff. But isn't the front diff in the same housing as the t case? Just trying to find out if the dealer A touched the bolt which drains the front diff. And also if I should be worried about any other part of my drivetrain. The car had to roll a bit to be towed and it rolled a bit on the highway before I safely stopped on the side of the road.
A couple months ago, I had a drivetrain fluids service at a dealership A (tranny, t case, rear diff etc). Yesterday, I heard a loud clunk/pop while on the highway followed by "disconnecting" of the drivetrain. Throttle input would raise RPMs but power would not be put down. Initially thought it was the clutch. Clutch pedal works normally and all gears 1-5+R work normally. The car is "stuck" and has resistance to move any distance forward or backwards while on all 4 wheels. Had it towed to the nearest mitsu dealership and they found that the drain bolt from the front diff is missing.
Original dealer claims they didn't drain the front diff. But isn't the front diff in the same housing as the t case? Just trying to find out if the dealer A touched the bolt which drains the front diff. And also if I should be worried about any other part of my drivetrain. The car had to roll a bit to be towed and it rolled a bit on the highway before I safely stopped on the side of the road.
There is a transmission drain, and a transfer case drain. If they aren't talking about the transmission, then its the Tcase. Off the top of my head I can't remember if the diff is in the trans or tcase for the X. I'm pretty sure it's inside the Transfer Case though. If you lost all the tcase fluid and it seized, then you are probably looking at a replacement tcase.
At any rate the dealer who did your service is either completely incompetent, or is playing games with you.
At any rate the dealer who did your service is either completely incompetent, or is playing games with you.
Last edited by Biggiesacks; Mar 16, 2022 at 10:29 AM.
On the X, I don't recall see a "front diff" drain bolt, it's likely the t-case mitsubishi dealer B is talking about. Do you have pictures? either way if it's the trans or t-case bolt and you have receipts that they serviced both, hold them accountable.
On the 10, there are four drive train fluid drain/fill locations.
1. Transmission
2. Transfer case
3. Rear diff
4. AYC clutch pack
There is also ACD fluid but that is in the trunk and I doubt the dealer touched that.
Common mistake/issue is confusing the rear diff and AYC clutch pack fluids.
If your car can’t roll, then something is fried and needs replacing. Time to lawyer up.
1. Transmission
2. Transfer case
3. Rear diff
4. AYC clutch pack
There is also ACD fluid but that is in the trunk and I doubt the dealer touched that.
Common mistake/issue is confusing the rear diff and AYC clutch pack fluids.
If your car can’t roll, then something is fried and needs replacing. Time to lawyer up.
Last edited by razorlab; Mar 17, 2022 at 08:29 AM.
It is the tcase plug. Dealer is not honoring fixing it and is denying all responsibility. Mitsu corporate isn't helping either. Will buy a tcase and have it built by shep out of pocket. Should I be worried about anything else?
Thanks for the replies, guys.
Thanks for the replies, guys.
I broke my ring and pinion and had to give it power several times to move the car out of the track, put on a flatbed/test rolled on my driveway, frequently encountering crunching metal bits... the tcase didnt crack but TRE said the pinion housing was out of spec so that cost me another $250. It's good to have a backup tcase, especially while evoX parts are cheap, assuming you plan to keep the car
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I broke my ring and pinion and had to give it power several times to move the car out of the track, put on a flatbed/test rolled on my driveway, frequently encountering crunching metal bits... the tcase didnt crack but TRE said the pinion housing was out of spec so that cost me another $250. It's good to have a backup tcase, especially while evoX parts are cheap, assuming you plan to keep the car
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