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HID conversion on GSR non-SSS

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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 10:24 PM
  #61  
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if you don't have the factory hid, then you need to get the 9006 for the low beams. this applies to the non-sss. so don't get the d2s, as this is for factory hid replacement bulbs only.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 11:30 PM
  #62  
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Curious....I don't care about the DRLs but don't want the strobe effect...Which aftermarket HIDs are plug and play without worrying about when I start the car?
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:33 AM
  #63  
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the apexcone will eliminate that strobing effect because the ballast is actually being turned off..
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #64  
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Do you have to worry about turning them on before you let out the parking brake? On the rare occasions someone else drives my car I see this being a problem.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 10:42 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by TripleD
this is the solution for you guys wanting to install an HID convertion.

I have been running this HID convertion kit in my non-projector housing with no problem. it completely disables the DRL, well sort of. it's got a safety thing when it senses voltage below 5volts or above 32volts it disables the ballasts. works perfect for those that doesn't want their DRL.

here's the link: http://www.ddmtuning.com/ap55wwesa.html

I'm currently running their 55W 5k and love it : and it's only 70 bucks for 55W or 55 bucks for 35W w/ a lifetime warranty. definitely recommended. and no need for those fixes you guys are having. only downside is you have to turn on your headlights before releasing the handbreaks or it won't turn on for night driving. you'd have to completely shut off the car to turn on the lights again. just gotta get used to it. hope this ends everyone's dillema of having to deal with DRL.

From DDM Tuning website:

Apexcone is a 3/4 size ballast kit. It is a fully digital ballast and integrated ignitor design that has an analog under/over voltage input circuit that does two things. First of course, it senses the input voltage from your car and will shut the ballast off if the incoming voltage is below 9V or above 32V. Its second function is that as the lights are starting up, the circuit functions to act as a stand-in for the bulb during computer self checks. While this works on early detection circuits like those on most BMWs, there are some car makes like Mercedes and Chrysler that use more advanced self diagnostics and those may require the BOW-3 Bulb Out Warning Adapters. But when operating normally, the ballast is totally digital and works amazingly well with all the speed and arc control accuracy of a fully digital design to ensure long bulb life. Contains your choice of low beam bulbs (H1, H7, 9006, H11, etc) in the color of your choice. Ballasts are our absolutely Rock Solid Apexcone 35W or 55W ballasts. Of course this product comes with our Lifetime Warranty.

Is this kit a direct plug and play? do I need to buy any other things ?
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:37 PM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by jimm
Do you have to worry about turning them on before you let out the parking brake? On the rare occasions someone else drives my car I see this being a problem.
They wouldn't be able to turn on the headlights once the parking brake is down. The device sees that there's a problem, so it shuts off the ballast. Yeah, this might be a problem if they're not familiar on how your headlights works. They can run the fogs or high beam.

Again, only way to turn on the hids, after you've released the parking brake, is to shut down the car, pull the hand brake up, and turn on the headlights before letting go of the parking brake again. I know it's a hassle, but I can live with it rather than burning your hid bulbs due to DRL. Or you can buy one of those fix.

This kit is plug and play.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:50 PM
  #67  
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I sell those fixes so you never have to worry about it flickering , it is plug and play so if anyone needs one pm me .
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 05:07 AM
  #68  
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Hey TripleD, just curious. Do you happen to have any pictures of your car? I'm just want to see what the 55W looks like compared to a 35W.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 07:49 AM
  #69  
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The 55W is longer in length and more brighter than a 35W, if that helps.
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 11:35 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
I sell those fixes so you never have to worry about it flickering , it is plug and play so if anyone needs one pm me .
No flickering but what about the start up issue?
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Old Jan 28, 2009 | 01:56 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by jimm
No flickering but what about the start up issue?
You mean when the e-brake is let off? They would start up perfectly like if you had flicked them on the on position

I guarantee these will work perfectly or your money back !

You can even check some of the ones i have sold on here on my itrader
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Old Jan 29, 2009 | 08:23 PM
  #72  
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those are for non projectors tho rite? how bout the ones who wants the factory projector headlights?
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 06:26 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by dierr
those are for non projectors tho rite? how bout the ones who wants the factory projector headlights?
then you need to get the d2s bulb type for the factory projector headlights.
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Old Jan 30, 2009 | 11:11 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 02-Lancer-Es
You mean when the e-brake is let off? They would start up perfectly like if you had flicked them on the on position

I guarantee these will work perfectly or your money back !

You can even check some of the ones i have sold on here on my itrader

Does this mean that yours also requires them to be turned on before the emergency brake is released? My wife sometimes drives the car and this will cause a whole bunch of problems..not the least of which is why my 30K+ car can't have the lights turned off and on without restarting the car.
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Old Feb 6, 2009 | 07:16 AM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by ITALIANX333
what happens if you pull fuse #13 and disarm the DRL?
It does disarm the DRLs ONLY if the car was equipped with HIDs. I pulled it the other day and everything works.
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