Installing your own clutch!
The "How Too" helped a ton. I had a hard time releasing the TOB, but I got it. Now that it is all put back together, it dose not work. This is what I think the problem is, please give me ideas on what you might think is the problem.
My friend broke the break line on the front passengers side, and all the brake fluid leaked out. With no new brake line on the island, and the fact that I had to get the car off the lift before work on Monday. I pushed it off the lift and in the parking lot I went to start the car keeping my fingers crossed hoping everything worked. First off the clutch pedel was amost to the floor. I pushed on the clutch and heard a small "POP" sound and then the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. As you know with no brake fluid one would expect that to happen. So on Monday I ordered a new brake line from Mitsubishi and then had one made at a local shop. I reinstalled the new break line, blead the breakes and then tried to bleed the clutch.
How do you bleed the clutch????? It has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder where it mounts to the bell housing and activates the clutch fork. I have tried to bleed it that way, but I am not sure what is wrong. or what is the sequence. should I be pumping the cluth? When I move the clutch pedel up and down it sounds like there is air in the system. The instructions from the AMS retainer ring are not that clear.
Second, I am hoping that the TOB is installed correct and that that poping sound was not the plastic master cylinder/clutch master cylinder breaking. The one that calls for the AMS ring.
This is what is going on right now. With the car off I can put it into gear and start the car with the key. It lurches foward and starts. So what I am saying is that the clutch is engagued and with no clutch pedel I can't disenguage.
So again please help.
My friend broke the break line on the front passengers side, and all the brake fluid leaked out. With no new brake line on the island, and the fact that I had to get the car off the lift before work on Monday. I pushed it off the lift and in the parking lot I went to start the car keeping my fingers crossed hoping everything worked. First off the clutch pedel was amost to the floor. I pushed on the clutch and heard a small "POP" sound and then the clutch pedal stayed on the floor. As you know with no brake fluid one would expect that to happen. So on Monday I ordered a new brake line from Mitsubishi and then had one made at a local shop. I reinstalled the new break line, blead the breakes and then tried to bleed the clutch.
How do you bleed the clutch????? It has a bleed screw on the slave cylinder where it mounts to the bell housing and activates the clutch fork. I have tried to bleed it that way, but I am not sure what is wrong. or what is the sequence. should I be pumping the cluth? When I move the clutch pedel up and down it sounds like there is air in the system. The instructions from the AMS retainer ring are not that clear.
Second, I am hoping that the TOB is installed correct and that that poping sound was not the plastic master cylinder/clutch master cylinder breaking. The one that calls for the AMS ring.
This is what is going on right now. With the car off I can put it into gear and start the car with the key. It lurches foward and starts. So what I am saying is that the clutch is engagued and with no clutch pedel I can't disenguage.
So again please help.
Thread Starter
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From: Cottage Grove, MN
The noise is very odd, if the TOB wasn't snapped into the pressure plate all the way it could of been the TOB slamming against the transmission inside.
As far as bleeding goes, make sure the fluid is full to the top and just crack the bleeder screw open. Let it gravity bleed until you see a steady stream come out of the bleeder. Once you see a stream coming out, close the bleeder. Pump the clutch pedal, and while someone is holding it all the way to the floor, open and close it really fast just like the brakes.
Have a peek inside the transmission and make sure the TOB is snapped into the pressure plate still. If it is, you should be good to go after the bleeding!
Thanks,
Adam
As far as bleeding goes, make sure the fluid is full to the top and just crack the bleeder screw open. Let it gravity bleed until you see a steady stream come out of the bleeder. Once you see a stream coming out, close the bleeder. Pump the clutch pedal, and while someone is holding it all the way to the floor, open and close it really fast just like the brakes.
Have a peek inside the transmission and make sure the TOB is snapped into the pressure plate still. If it is, you should be good to go after the bleeding!
Thanks,
Adam
lol wowwww... well clutch is installed and everythings running great.. just in break in mode now.. started mid day friday , worked at it ALL day saturday and half day today... first time doin clutch so was very time consuming but so glad thats over with lol.. act 6 puck sprung with street lite fly wheel and ams reinforcment ring on the cms along with the ams clutch line. thanks for the write up
This would be a great weekend project ..I don't think I can do this by myself though..Knowing my patience limit but with another set of hands or two and a complete navy hobby shop It's ON!! thanks for the write up!
yea you def. want another buddy or two when it comes to time to removing the tranny. we left the transfer case hangin in the car instead of takin it out, and bought a slide hammer and welded correct threaded bolt to it to remove the output shaft.
another thing id reccomend is maybe take pics of the heat sheilds around the downpipe and transfer case / acd lines before you remove them bc their was one in particular we had a hard time finding but eventually got it
another thing id reccomend is maybe take pics of the heat sheilds around the downpipe and transfer case / acd lines before you remove them bc their was one in particular we had a hard time finding but eventually got it
