Very informative and detailed write up posted on evoxforums on changing sst fluid(link: http://www.evoxforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35444 ) !plus kudos to all the other members on the loads more of information provided on that thread!was very easy to do until of course this bolt/threading problem

While removing the drain plugs seems like one was overtorqued(model is an fq 300 ukdm) and wouldn't come out for anything...just kept spinning and spinning...had to eventually pry it out while carefully loosening it and needless to say this was a real ***** to get out lol...
Upon closer inspection both the threading on the bolt and drain plug have been completely wrung out with metal(aluminium?) shavings from the transmission present all over the bolt :/...fluid came out good with no presence of fouling.

so wanted to to know if it's ok if i tap and die this drain plug to use with a bigger bolt?

Also found this video of a guy showing how to repair a stripped out aluminium oil pan from a honda (VTEC yo! lol) without having to tap and die using a bolt of same circumference but longer...seems much easier faster and a legit fix but don't know if it'll hold up seeing as this is the sst tranny...


so what would you guys advise?what would be the best and permanent solution?tap and die then using a wider bolt?or is there any other method u guys think would be the best..don't wanna mess up anything as i dont wanna be driving around and always thinking in the back of my mind that this bolt could come loose at anytime.

P.S. i live in trinidad and tobago in the Caribbean(oil and gas rich twin islands so there are places available to do this but would rather do it myself as it's hard to come by a trustworthy mechanic unfortunately)

Any DIY advice would be much appreciated!

 

You're in a tough position, as just about anything you do will probably leave shavings behind that could damage the tranny. The proper repair would of course be to use a threaded insert like a time-sert or Helicoil, and if done right such a repair will actually yield a stronger thread than the original. Do you have any idea how thin the aluminum is there? The reason I ask is that time-serts generally do not come in as short a length as the shortest Helicoils. If you do decide to roll the dice and do this repair with the tranny on the car maybe try to vacuum out the shavings a little at a time as you drill. Good luck.

 

Yeah i'm really worried about the metal shavings but shouldn't using a a magnet attached to an extension and vacuum remove all shavings?... also the drain plug faces directly downwards so i'm hoping any and all filings will also just fall out
Also after tapping and removing as much shavings as possible would leaving the drain plug out and filling tranny fluid in help remove any residual filings that may be left behind as it drains through?

the aluminium seems a bit thick but i'm not sure....took a few pics any advice would be appreciated

 

For that diameter hole, that does not seem very deep at all. You said it was a aluminum, right, so obviously a magnet won't help? I would truly recommend that you Helicoil it, and use a vacuum cleaner while drilling a little at a time, and perhaps flush the oil after. I have no idea what size bolt that is, but buy the appropriate Helicoil kit for that size thread, and take it to a professional to drill the tranny and install it. To keep the drill square, make sure they use a small block of aluminum with a drill-press cut hole of diameter appropriate for that Helicoil kit.

 

thanks alot for the advice man! definitely vacuuming the shavings and gonna do a flush(maybe 2)....would've gone with the helicoil but the local shops i've tried don't have any at all...so tried the tap and then using an oversized bolt....

everything was going perfectly til it came to the last 2-3 treads to be tapped(thought it went perfectly as the bolt was threading perfectly til those last 2 threads where it would just completely lose any "catch" and the bolt would just go loose and keep spinning in place barely ~ 2-5 mm from complete fitment :S

it comes out as normal and screws back into the exact trouble spot....SO...

1)am i completely screwed here?

2)should i shave out all the new threading and re tap one more size up?(take into mind the tap used here was 2 sizes up from oem dimensions...yes stupid...but all i could get hold of at the time)

3)should i use a washer to close the gap and keep it nice and tight?if so would an aluminium or copper washer(of correct size ofcourse) do the job?and also if i go this routed routes should i do should i add permatex sealant to the bolt?

4) condemn the drain hole and completely seal it?

5)any solid advice would be much appreciated!!

 

Oh boy, I do not know what to tell you, other than option 3 seems to be the best at this point. I would just use a crush washer without sealant. Just be careful not to apply too much torque to the bolt, since you have fewer threads to spread the tension over. Good luck.

 

Agreed. I would try a copper washer and be VERY careful about how tight you go. Snug + 1/8 of a turn at first. If it doesn't leak, don't tighten it more.

Might be best to order a correct size helicoil kit just in case.

 

Thanks for the advice guys! finally got around to properly fixing the problem using a copper washer for the gap and having a custom plug with threading made to do another tap...fits snug and nice

so now this just leaves me with the problem of how to get all those metal filings out?
was thinking of having all 3 drain plugs out while i use a few litres of mineral oil(cheap and used to do a tranny flush on the sst anyway...from reading through the forums) and pour it through it to the fill hole while it drains through all 3 drain holes....will this be enough to remove all the metal filings that would be inside the reservoir of the drain plug that needed to be retapped and using a dremel to smoothen out the threads b4?