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Revalved Bilsteins

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Old May 6, 2009, 03:24 PM
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Revalved Bilsteins

I've been considering my suspension options to upgrade my GSR. I've been thinking about finding a set of used OEM bilsteins and sending them off to get revalved by bilstein usa. Anyone ever have experience with this? Is there a limit, other than valving, to the spring rates the OEM dampers can handle?

Anyone have an idea of how revalved OEM bilsteins would compare to, say, PSS9s, KWs, or even a more high-end damper like AST? I realize the bilsteins aren't adjustable, but I don't care about that. I'd just as soon get a good damping setup for my spring rates and forget about it.
Old May 6, 2009, 05:09 PM
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Originally Posted by burt_reynolds
I've been considering my suspension options to upgrade my GSR. I've been thinking about finding a set of used OEM bilsteins and sending them off to get revalved by bilstein usa. Anyone ever have experience with this? Is there a limit, other than valving, to the spring rates the OEM dampers can handle?

Anyone have an idea of how revalved OEM bilsteins would compare to, say, PSS9s, KWs, or even a more high-end damper like AST? I realize the bilsteins aren't adjustable, but I don't care about that. I'd just as soon get a good damping setup for my spring rates and forget about it.
Street use, AutoX, Track? What will you be using the car for?

I think most spring rates the highest they go to is 4-4.5kg. That's pretty soft for track duty, even some heavy autoX duty. But pretty comfy and livable on the street. I say if you mostly street use the car, once in a while will do a AutoX or a track event.

Get the shocks revalved, get the hardest springs you can get and go that route.

Some people tell me that KW3 Streets are really good. But is $2400 really worth it to you if you will not be using the setup to its max potential.

BTW, I have been thinking about the same thing. I hoped that Bilstein would have came out with the Bilstein HD dampers but no luck yet.

You might want to look into the Eibach coilover setup as well.
Old May 7, 2009, 10:48 AM
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The limit here is finding a spring that doesn't lower the car too much that has good spring rates. Although you can revalve the Bilsteins, if you drop the car 1.5 inches, it doesn't matter because without travel, the car will suck.

There just aren't many springs out there for the X that are IMO "performance" lowering springs. The Works could be, but they haven't released spring rates. Swifts seem pretty good, and i'm glad they went with a milder drop.

So that's going to be the advantage with KWs or AST.....the ability to run any spring rate you want since you can just use standardized coilover springs.

BUT revalved Bilsteins with Swifts would be a pretty good option that's not too aggressive. With swaybars it would likely do very well on the track and be civil on the street. And much cheaper then a good set of coilovers. If you don't really NEED coilovers, this is the way I personally would go.

- Andrew
Old May 7, 2009, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by GTWORX.com
The limit here is finding a spring that doesn't lower the car too much that has good spring rates. Although you can revalve the Bilsteins, if you drop the car 1.5 inches, it doesn't matter because without travel, the car will suck.

There just aren't many springs out there for the X that are IMO "performance" lowering springs. The Works could be, but they haven't released spring rates. Swifts seem pretty good, and i'm glad they went with a milder drop.

So that's going to be the advantage with KWs or AST.....the ability to run any spring rate you want since you can just use standardized coilover springs.

BUT revalved Bilsteins with Swifts would be a pretty good option that's not too aggressive. With swaybars it would likely do very well on the track and be civil on the street. And much cheaper then a good set of coilovers. If you don't really NEED coilovers, this is the way I personally would go.

- Andrew
That's what has me stuck getting a set of Swifts or WORKS... now that's a dilema.

I like the fact the WORKS, keep as close to the stock setup as possible, just lowering the center of gravity. The rake is the same, and the fronts are non-progressive, while the rears are progressive to keep the ACD working properly.

Swifts change the rake and change the front to be progressive.

Sigh decisions, decisions.
Old May 7, 2009, 04:33 PM
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I'm definitely in this with autox (SCCA STU) in mind. It is my daily driver, but I can handle stiff. My RSX ran with buddy clubs (cheap dampers) and 10k/14k rates (all on a < 2900 lb car). I figure 11k sprints on 3400 lb evo with good dampers will ride like a dream in comparison

With that said, ideally, I'd like to run 10-12k springs all around. My next question was going to be "Is it possible to find springs at that rate that fit the stock perches?" My first concern was whether revalved bilsteins could even take that kind of stress.

I was wondering if you could do something like revise the perches or even replace them. I honestly don't know if I'm way out of line with possibilities here or not. If so, I'll just save my pennies for next year and go with AST, KW, or even (if I get a bonus) DFV.
Old May 7, 2009, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Clipse3GT
That's what has me stuck getting a set of Swifts or WORKS... now that's a dilema.

I like the fact the WORKS, keep as close to the stock setup as possible, just lowering the center of gravity. The rake is the same, and the fronts are non-progressive, while the rears are progressive to keep the ACD working properly.
The WORKS are pretty good, I think. I went with the WORKS as a stop-gap measure until I decide what to do next. With the WORKS springs and maxed out stock camber (-2.1F/-2.4R), I can tell a pretty good difference in maximum grip. The body roll is lessened a bit, but the car still wallows. The spring rates are simply way too low.
Old May 7, 2009, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by burt_reynolds
The WORKS are pretty good, I think. I went with the WORKS as a stop-gap measure until I decide what to do next. With the WORKS springs and maxed out stock camber (-2.1F/-2.4R), I can tell a pretty good difference in maximum grip. The body roll is lessened a bit, but the car still wallows. The spring rates are simply way too low.
Yeah, my car is a daily driver, with once in a while track (1 per year) and autoX duty (2-3 per year max). I just want the springs for a little firm ride and some lowering ability.

I have no desire to get coilovers. Just maybe shocks or springs.
Old Jun 1, 2009, 05:44 AM
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Has anyone priced out getting the shocks revalved to control aftermarket lowering springs a bit better?

http://www.bilstein.com/services.php

So for around $260 plus shipping it seems like a decent idea. I would imagine you could give them the spring rates of your lowering springs compared to stock and then ask for a similar or slightly higher increase in rebound/compression to be on the stiffer side especially if you have stiffer anti-roll bars. I would imagine a Whiteline Roll Center Kit would be a good idea as well for better roll control and reduction in suspension compression in a corner.

Last edited by Hiboost; Jun 1, 2009 at 06:26 AM. Reason: Edited for clarity
Old Jun 1, 2009, 05:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Hiboost
I would imagine a Whiteline Roll Center Kit would be a good idea as well to regain some of your lost travel.
I don't believe that is a correct statement. I believe the Whiteline Roll Center kit helps align suspension geometry on lowered cars.
Old Jun 1, 2009, 06:18 AM
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Originally Posted by cij911
I don't believe that is a correct statement. I believe the Whiteline Roll Center kit helps align suspension geometry on lowered cars.
"The EVO X’s front roll geometry actually encourages roll the lower you go. Tests on Project EVO showed that raising the front roll-centre resulted in a substantial increase to front roll
resistance and a significant reduction in suspension compression of the outside front wheel during cornering (less roll)."

Looks like I crossed my info, thanks for catching that! Looks like it just reduces the amount of suspension compression used in a corner which in a round about way is using less of your lowered cars suspension travel, at least for turns.

Last edited by Hiboost; Jun 1, 2009 at 06:23 AM.
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