urneighborhood

iTrader: (8)

cusco

DRAG

iTrader: (3)

I still haven't gotten around to installing the bars. I have to put another clutch in, so that will be a good time to do it. My wife made me do yard work all weekend!

Thanks for the info on the Cusco bars

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

I'm waiting to see which ones will be better, before I buy.

The Hotchkis or the COBB...

Both a pretty close as far as specs go.

GSXR

iTrader: (3)

Wow. I just installed the Cobb front sway bar and it was a bear. It took about 3 hrs just due to the sheer number of bolts, nuts and plastic clips you needed to remove. The install instructions on Hotchkis' website is helpful. It's not clear on a couple of things but I was able to figure it out anyway. I tried to do the install without removing the plastic undertray but it needs to be removed. I also didn't disconnect the steering wheel shaft as shown in the instructions but it didn't seem to hinder the removal of the bar.

Overall, the car is better planted on corner entry and mid corner. Exiting corners under gas seems to understeer a bit. I have a feeling the front inside tire is lifting and I'm losing traction. I'll see how things change when I install the rear bar.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

Did you have to lower the entire subframe to get out the front bar?

If you set it to the stiffest setting it will generally tend to lift your wheels. For Daily Driving, "generally" it is better to set the sway bars at the mid-setting so you don't get wheel lift on hard corners.

GSXR

iTrader: (3)

Yup. I took just about every bolt there was on the subframe and then both front and rear motor mounts off. There were some other bolts I removed for these hard lines that got in the way and also about 20 or so plastic clips for the under tray.

The reason the subframe had to be lowered was due to the rear motor mount bracket getting in the way. And to lower the subframe, just about everything has to be removed. Just keep a jack under the subframe to make sure it doesn't drop on you. I don't think it will but the subframe is pretty heavy and you don't want that to hit you.

I actually have the front bar set to the softer setting. When I get on the gas moderately, the front end starts to push and squeal some. If I punch it on corner exit, I can steer into the corner and still keep it in line but all tires are howling then and I get a nice four wheel drift. Fun but not the best way to exit a corner. The rear bar will keep the inside front from lifting and I should in theory have more front end grip.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

Why did you go with Cobb instead of Hotchkis sway bars?

abu

iTrader: (3)

There's not much difference between the Hotchkis and Cobb except the rear might be stiffer. I went with Cobb cause its more pocket friendly and I'd figure with 3 settings, I can find a setting I like with Cobb.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

I thought the Hotchkis ones have 3 settings as well.

Hotchkis cost about $340 compared to the $330 for COBB bars.

EDIT: COBB & HOTCHKIS 2 way fronts & 3 way rears

meckert

iTrader: (11)

With just the front bar changed the car will push just like it is.. to be safer you should have done the rear first. Driving with that frt bar could get you in trouble in a quick turn...but you be the judge. With the rear bar added the frt will settle down.

GSXR

iTrader: (3)

Cobb's is a less stiff in the rear. I don't want to go too stiff in the rear.

Talon_66

iTrader: (6)

Where are you finding Hotchkis for $340?

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

The oversteer issue?

Let us know how the car handles when you install the rear bar. It should flatten the car out and make it much more neutral.

Setting the front to the softest and the rear to the middle setting, would produce probably great results for a daily driver.

Clipse3GT

iTrader: (10)

http://yhst-16298468643776.stores.ya...wsetmievo.html

Talon_66

iTrader: (6)

bookmarked