There are a lot of different pads, large disks, calipers, etc. But how to use all this stuff?

How to do proper braking (no ABS)?
How to find proper brakes balance?
Should I use brake pressure distribution valve?
Why people use different brake pads on front and rear?
Is braking balance depending from shocks settings or no?
Do your know some exercises that can improve braking on track?

I'm thinking braking is much more difficult then cornering and throttling..

 

It depends on your level of track experience. The more experience that you get, the deeper into the braking zone you can go. The most important part is matching your pads to your tires, you can get really aggressive track pads, but they wont do you any good unless you are running r-comps or slicks. So, as your need for more grip develops, get stickier tires, and more agressive pads to compliment the tires. I read an article in Grassroots Motorsports last month that was comparing all of the Hawk pads on a street-driven Miata. Because of the tires, there was virtually no improvememt in lap times from stock pads to HTC-60s (very agressive track pad). They tested stock, HPS, HP+, and the HTC-60s, all lap times were virtually identical. If they had progressed to an extreme summer tire, then R-comp, then slick, you would have seen a drop in lap times. The key is the combination of tire/pad that makes lap times drop.

The stock Brembos are a very capable set up, you should only need to flush the brake fluid in order to have a season's worth of excellent braking.

Stiffer suspension set up will assist in braking, but again, you need to work yourself up to that point.

Spend money on track days getting experience, your car will tell you when you need to upgrade brakes, tires, suspension, etc...

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...o-x-forum.html

I wrote that originally for 8/9s, but the information in there holds true.

And as TxEvo pointed out, pads and tires should be matched up.

What is your current setup?
Pads?
Tires?
Ducts?
Rotors?

How to do proper braking (no ABS)?
Leave ABS on. It will save you from flat spotting a tire. I never turned mine off for track days. The Evo ABS never got in my way.

How to find proper brakes balance?
Experience in the seat. Car weight. Tires used. Rotors used. Ducts.

Should I use brake pressure distribution valve?
No.

Why people use different brake pads on front and rear?
If nearly the same drag coefficient, you can run 2 type of pads. The rear pads to not see nearly the same amount of heat as the fronts. Running racing pads on the street can eat through rotors and be noisy. Many will run a high performance street pad for daily use on all four corners, then swap over to front track pads for events.

Is braking balance depending from shocks settings or no?
Car balance is. Heavy nose dive means weight transfer to the front. Which means more work for the pads and tires too.

Do your know some exercises that can improve braking on track?
Seat time Finding a good instructor is also a great resource.

Given: tires and pads working together.
Work on getting up speed and applying the brakes in a smooth and firm manner. Note: Each car is different. Some like fast and hard pedal. Some an ease in. So you will have to get a feel for the car.

Using track markers (brake zone numbers, flags, trees, etc). slowly move your braking point in. Remember your fiction circle. Tires can do 1 thing at a time - brake, turn, go. Get all the braking done before going into the turn (trail braking is for another time). Find where you are braking, turning, back on acceleration. You never want to coast, e.g. brake, coast, turn, accelerate.

 

How to do proper braking (no ABS)?
If you decide to turn off your abs practice practice practice. Depending on your suspension setup it maybe easier or very difficult to threshold brake you car into a corner.Remember simply locking up a tire removes on average 30% or so percent of the tires ability to slow you down. Simply un curling your toes on a well bled system might get the tire rolling again but the time you need to react in addition to the flat spot generated usually means your going wide and you need to compromise braking the next few corners given how easy it's going to be continuously flat spotting that tire.

How to find proper brakes balance?
Optimal Brake balance is usually dependent on the tracks grip levels. This also tends to be driver dependent. Once you have acquired enough seat time you can adjust the brake balance to optimize on your race strategy and improve your consistency. *However unless you invested Significant amout of time in you suspension and vehicle setup the need to install a bias adjuster isn't all that necessary.*

Should I use brake pressure distribution valve?
Have you optimized your particular race setup. Do you often race in low grip levels?

Why people use different brake pads on front and rear?
I agree with the previous post. usually this method is utilized by the weekend warrior. I have also heard of drivers claiming they have narrowed it into a science to offset braking bias? However I dont believe in this. I come to thing of it as installing a set of bald rear tires to correct for a understeer problem. * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * **


Is braking balance depending from shocks settings or no?
The ability of the brakes is only as good as the tires. the ability of the tires is dependent on the generated grip. The generated grip is based on weight transfer which ties into your suspension and chassis setup combined. So in essence you can improve your braking significantly given how you dial in your car provided you have a chassis allowing you to do so.

Do your know some exercises that can improve braking on track?
Initially I would recommend some reading. Going Faster by Carol Lopez is a good book tied to skip barber for reading up on braking and a bunch of other great stuff. Second is Carroll smiths Drive to win both great books to own.
Secondly if you could find a large flat piece of Tarmac where you could safely and legally practice and develop braking consistency utilizing a few cone markers both in a straight line and initiating a corner you would potentially become a great braker. remember the brakes are not solely used to stop a car they do much more in advanced driving.*

- as previously mentioned you want to be either on the gas or on the brake during your maneuvers when the cars loaded. It's rare in any case that you want to coast but in some instances drivers do. However for all intensive purposes that's not something you should be doing.*

 

for start:

http://www.drivingfast.net/car-control/braking.htm

 

Thank you. EvoX is my street car and it almost stock.

My track car is heavy moded S2k. 255 NT01 all around, coilovers, engine, transmission, etc.
Large front brakes, stock rear calipers, no ABS, brake pressure distribution valve. And all this things I should tune to work together

I have experience with no-ABS s2k in winter and it was brilliant.

When releasing brakes at turn in - weight should stay in front. It's easy to understand (in mind and physically in corner entry) for me.

But how fast I should press the brake pedal?

Slow speed pedal pressure - more weight come to front wheels, less overall grip.
Fast speed pedal pressure - less weight come to front wheels, more overall grip.

Is this right?

 

I'd upgrade the X pads to some that have more initial bite. They will do more work for you with less workout from your leg.

Slow speed pedal pressure - more weight come to front wheels, less overall grip.
Fast speed pedal pressure - less weight come to front wheels, more overall grip.

That outside tire will have grip and the expense is the rear will be upset. If your drifting - great. But if your tracking - no so much.

Don't forget what is happening to your rear weight shift. You are taking weight off of it - you'll tank slap if you are not careful. Which is why smooth and firm braking is better than slamming on them.

 

I agree with your two statements for the most part. However I tend to think of the rate at which you get on your pedal a bit differently.I see it as a race between your weight transfer and your braking foot. The optimal rate of applying your brake will depend on how your vehicle weight is distributed its ride height and suspension.If you get on the pedal too fast the weight transferred will not have time to reach the front tires and provide them with extra grip for optimal braking opening the possibility for lockup. If you get on the pedal too slow you will transfer all the weight toward the front of the car but your braking wont be nearly as late as it could have been, hence you risk overloading the front tires with the additional weight+braking by the time to get into the first phase of taking the corner. The statements you made prior:
Slow speed pedal pressure - more weight come to front wheels, less overall grip.
Fast speed pedal pressure - less weight come to front wheels, more overall grip.

From my understanding these relate more to the overall grip of the car generated by all contact loads distributed closer to equilibrium. However under braking the grip of the working wheels usually 75% front would be effectively slowing the car down. If you properly transferred that weight to the working wheels allowing for an increase in grip then you would be at the working tires 100% ability to slow the car down. If we got into plotting the effects of brake bias and how a hypothetical road car stops with 50/50 bias assuming equal weight distribution then we could see that balancing the vehicle would be paramount