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Eibach pro kit question

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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 05:11 PM
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Eibach pro kit question

on the eibach pro kit, do I cut the part on the shocks they ask you to cut? The bushing thing inside the tube. Or leave it alone ?? Also do i need to get an alignment after the instal??Just wondering what works best. Thank y'all
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 06:21 PM
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No, you don't have to cut the bumpstops.

Yes, you do have to get an alignment.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowa999
No, you don't have to cut the bumpstops.

Yes, you do have to get an alignment.
Iowa999 with more great advice.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 06:55 PM
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Thank y'all for the info
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JBAutosports
Iowa999 with more great advice.
Thanks, but "great advice" would have been to eBay the ProKits and get some springs with decent rates for the amount of drop, but I know that I annoy people when I do that sort of thing.

Last edited by Iowa999; Jan 24, 2012 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:09 PM
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Yes you need to cut that thing and you have to do ali vor good handling
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowa999
Thanks, but "great advice" would have been to eBay the ProKits and get some springs with decent rates for the amount of drop, but I know that I annoy people when I do that sort of thing.
Lol, annoying can be helpful sometimes

Just wondering, what springs would you recommend for a modest drop, similar to the ProKits, for a daily driver.. preferably something that would be about equal to or slightly better than stock?
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:35 PM
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Yes, cut the bumpstops per the directions. The Prokits are fantastic springs, I've had them on my X for 30k miles and my wife's WRX for 60k miles. I've used many different brands of lowering springs and honestly none have made me as happy as these. They ride nice, they firm up nicely in the corners, and the drop is exactly what I was looking for.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Iowa999
Thanks, but "great advice" would have been to eBay the ProKits and get some springs with decent rates for the amount of drop, but I know that I annoy people when I do that sort of thing.
The rates are perfect for a street car, they have a very wide progressive range. Initially they're softer for cruising down the road comfort, but as they compress (hard corners) they really firm up (stiffer than Swift Sports).

Are they perfect for the track? Nope.
Are springs designed for the track good on the street? Nope.

Decide what your car is, be honest with yourself here, and chose the products that match your usage.

Last edited by Kracka; Jan 24, 2012 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 07:39 PM
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Kracka thnx for sharing your knowledge
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:01 PM
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Yeah, OK. So the Pro Kits for Evo Xs aren't the crud that Eibach sold for DSMs.... I'm just not ready to forgive them yet.
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Old Jan 24, 2012 | 08:06 PM
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Well, this is the Evo X section...please don't fill it with false information when you have no first hand experience with them. Please leave the responses to those of us who do.

I'm not trying to be a dick, but this is a real pet peeve of mine.

Last edited by Kracka; Jan 24, 2012 at 08:09 PM.
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Old Jan 25, 2012 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Kracka
Yes, cut the bumpstops per the directions. The Prokits are fantastic springs, I've had them on my X for 30k miles and my wife's WRX for 60k miles. I've used many different brands of lowering springs and honestly none have made me as happy as these. They ride nice, they firm up nicely in the corners, and the drop is exactly what I was looking for.
Thanks for the info!
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 04:33 AM
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well I do have first hand experience with the prokit and I agree with ebaying them.

they aren't good street, autox or track springs. they are too soft and they lower the car too much. soft and low results in bottoming out on regular streets.

they're only good if you want your car to be lower for cheap.

I'm not even going to comment on handling characteristics.
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Old Jan 26, 2012 | 06:43 AM
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Sometimes they are probably bottoming out. But the rest of the time, the problem is caused by the combination of a highly progressive spring and a highly progressive shock (assuming you have a GSR). Add in rubber upper shock bushings and you have the worst combination possible. On a sharp bump, the soft initial rate of the spring allows for a lot of movement, while the shock is delayed in acting by the rubber bushing; then you reach the higher-rate portion of the spring at the same moment that the shock starts acting - and acting at a high velocity, to boot - and you get that hard hit that kills both ride and grip.

Suspensions are a system. You can't think about one element at a time. If you have KYBs (or pretty much any other Asian shock), you need to think about their progressive nature when you choose your springs. And combining a highly progressive spring with a highly progressive shock, especially with rubber shock bushings, is close to the worst thing that you can do to a car.
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