MR Bilstein shock revalve info
Jun 7, 2012, 06:19 AM
#31
I was gonna do that! But I never did. Look forward to seeing it!
EDIT: actually did we talk about this a while ago? It should be pretty cool. I've done some logging (GPS and accelerometer) with my android but did all my processing on my own off the phone.
- Andrew
EDIT: actually did we talk about this a while ago? It should be pretty cool. I've done some logging (GPS and accelerometer) with my android but did all my processing on my own off the phone.
- Andrew
Last edited by GTWORX.com; Jun 7, 2012 at 06:21 AM. Reason: asdf
Oct 20, 2012, 09:27 PM
#33
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Is re-valving more for those that are into auto cross and like events? I only daily drive my car, i'm looking into a GTWorx/Bilstein combo. I am trying to determine whether re-valving is worth it for me.
Oct 21, 2012, 12:38 PM
#36
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I am considering getting gtworx for my MR. I am debating on the revalve. I currently don't track, but I do push the car very hard on back road twisties.
Anyone know how much harsher ride would be? I don't like the idea of mismatched spring dampening, but not sure how much we are talking. I am only concerned because I seen so complaints from folks who did not revalve.
Anyone know how much harsher ride would be? I don't like the idea of mismatched spring dampening, but not sure how much we are talking. I am only concerned because I seen so complaints from folks who did not revalve.
Dec 21, 2012, 07:31 AM
#37
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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I had a question.
I'm completely new to suspension, so what all is included in the revalve? If I'm looking at a set of used Bilsteins, would it matter how many miles are on them (ie - revalving makes how many miles are on the set irrelvant)?
Long story short, I'm just confused on if I should buy a set with more miles for less money, or less miles and more money
I'm completely new to suspension, so what all is included in the revalve? If I'm looking at a set of used Bilsteins, would it matter how many miles are on them (ie - revalving makes how many miles are on the set irrelvant)?
Long story short, I'm just confused on if I should buy a set with more miles for less money, or less miles and more money
Dec 21, 2012, 08:14 AM
#38
First, there's nothing wrong with bringing back an old thread when it's exactly on-point. It's the best thing to do when some useful info is in the old thread.
There are two levels of having your Bilsteins serviced. You can just ask for a rebuild, which will get you new shims and seals, or you can ask for a revalve, which will get you different shims during the rebuild. What you ask for depends on whether you're happy with the default valving. If, for example, you are going to put some stiffer springs on the car, such as the GTWorx Tarmacs or Swift Spec Rs (which are both good choices), you might want to shift the shocks towards more rebound and less bump. Why? Because with more spring you need more rebound to control them, but less bump because the added spring will add more resistance to bump. On the other hand, if you are planning to autocross in A/Stock, you might want more of both, because you can't change the springs. On the third hand (tee hee), if you're planning to rallycross the car, you might ask for less of both.
So, the questions are these: what springs will you be running and what's the main use of the car?
There are two levels of having your Bilsteins serviced. You can just ask for a rebuild, which will get you new shims and seals, or you can ask for a revalve, which will get you different shims during the rebuild. What you ask for depends on whether you're happy with the default valving. If, for example, you are going to put some stiffer springs on the car, such as the GTWorx Tarmacs or Swift Spec Rs (which are both good choices), you might want to shift the shocks towards more rebound and less bump. Why? Because with more spring you need more rebound to control them, but less bump because the added spring will add more resistance to bump. On the other hand, if you are planning to autocross in A/Stock, you might want more of both, because you can't change the springs. On the third hand (tee hee), if you're planning to rallycross the car, you might ask for less of both.
So, the questions are these: what springs will you be running and what's the main use of the car?
Dec 21, 2012, 02:25 PM
#39
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First, there's nothing wrong with bringing back an old thread when it's exactly on-point. It's the best thing to do when some useful info is in the old thread.
There are two levels of having your Bilsteins serviced. You can just ask for a rebuild, which will get you new shims and seals, or you can ask for a revalve, which will get you different shims during the rebuild. What you ask for depends on whether you're happy with the default valving. If, for example, you are going to put some stiffer springs on the car, such as the GTWorx Tarmacs or Swift Spec Rs (which are both good choices), you might want to shift the shocks towards more rebound and less bump. Why? Because with more spring you need more rebound to control them, but less bump because the added spring will add more resistance to bump. On the other hand, if you are planning to autocross in A/Stock, you might want more of both, because you can't change the springs. On the third hand (tee hee), if you're planning to rallycross the car, you might ask for less of both.
So, the questions are these: what springs will you be running and what's the main use of the car?
There are two levels of having your Bilsteins serviced. You can just ask for a rebuild, which will get you new shims and seals, or you can ask for a revalve, which will get you different shims during the rebuild. What you ask for depends on whether you're happy with the default valving. If, for example, you are going to put some stiffer springs on the car, such as the GTWorx Tarmacs or Swift Spec Rs (which are both good choices), you might want to shift the shocks towards more rebound and less bump. Why? Because with more spring you need more rebound to control them, but less bump because the added spring will add more resistance to bump. On the other hand, if you are planning to autocross in A/Stock, you might want more of both, because you can't change the springs. On the third hand (tee hee), if you're planning to rallycross the car, you might ask for less of both.
So, the questions are these: what springs will you be running and what's the main use of the car?
I wasnt sure if miles driven mattered on the Bilsteins if they were getting revalved anyway. Essentially, should I shoot for a set with less miles, or does it not matter since they will be revalved
Dec 21, 2012, 02:38 PM
#40
It doesn't really matter. If they're going to be sent out to be worked on, get whatever set is cheaper.
(Don't know love it when some jerk gives a long-winded and look-at-me-I'm-so-smart answer, instead of the simple response to the actual question....)
(Don't know love it when some jerk gives a long-winded and look-at-me-I'm-so-smart answer, instead of the simple response to the actual question....)
Dec 28, 2012, 09:45 AM
#42
I have thoughts on buying a full set of Penske coilovers, with the proper springs and ride heights on all 4 corners, then having Bilstein match the valving on the shocks, and using a custom coilover kits with identical springs as the Penske's with the perches and the mounts built to mirror the heights that the Penskes are set at.
Use the Bilsteins as primary and the Penskes as backup. That way, if the primary goes bad, it's a cheap replacement.
Use the Bilsteins as primary and the Penskes as backup. That way, if the primary goes bad, it's a cheap replacement.
Dec 28, 2012, 12:18 PM
#45
Because they are OTS (off the shelf) and you can have them this spring.
I don't doubt that you could spend the same money and a ton of time to create something slightly better, maybe based on Penskes. My point was that, if you have $20k to blow on suspension, you can have something race-tested and near optimal immediately. No need to reinvent the wheel, as it were.
I don't doubt that you could spend the same money and a ton of time to create something slightly better, maybe based on Penskes. My point was that, if you have $20k to blow on suspension, you can have something race-tested and near optimal immediately. No need to reinvent the wheel, as it were.