Camber plates maxed out, still have excess camber?
Sep 8, 2013, 05:58 PM
#1
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Camber plates maxed out, still have excess camber?
I have the Fortune Auto 500 series Coilovers on my 2010 evo x. I have the camber plates maxed out (trying to add positive camber) but the best I can get the front to is -1.9 degrees of camber.. I have the lower strut bolt with the arrow facing towards the engine on both sides. My car is low, but just as low as a lot of people's. (1 finger gap all around). Can anyone tell me what's wrong or if that's just how it's going to be with having the car that low. Thanks!
Sep 8, 2013, 06:08 PM
#2
a common fix for issues like this would be either a set of camber bolts... likely already on your car... or to take a drill and stretch the bolt holes...
also i thought the camber bolt was supposed to be on top not the bottom... and whether it face forward or backward isn't important so much as the cam on the bolt itself facing the wheel or the axle... one way it will add camber... the other take it away...
also i thought the camber bolt was supposed to be on top not the bottom... and whether it face forward or backward isn't important so much as the cam on the bolt itself facing the wheel or the axle... one way it will add camber... the other take it away...
Sep 9, 2013, 10:37 AM
#3
This is hilarious.
First, as mentioned above, the eccentric bolt goes in the top hole. When it's in the top hole, dot to the inside is less negative camber, but when you have bolt in the lower hole, the same dot direction adds more negative camber.
Second, the idea that you should slot the ears on the coilover and rely on the friction between the ears and the knuckle to maintain the alignment is nuts. And I say this as someone who has nothing against cutting OE springs, so it's not like I'm a purist.
edit: Third, unless all you do drag-race, -1.9* sounds just about right for a street-driven car that has to make turns. Set the rear to about -1.2*, zero toe all around (or a tad of rear toe-in), and drive the car.
First, as mentioned above, the eccentric bolt goes in the top hole. When it's in the top hole, dot to the inside is less negative camber, but when you have bolt in the lower hole, the same dot direction adds more negative camber.
Second, the idea that you should slot the ears on the coilover and rely on the friction between the ears and the knuckle to maintain the alignment is nuts. And I say this as someone who has nothing against cutting OE springs, so it's not like I'm a purist.
edit: Third, unless all you do drag-race, -1.9* sounds just about right for a street-driven car that has to make turns. Set the rear to about -1.2*, zero toe all around (or a tad of rear toe-in), and drive the car.
Last edited by Iowa999; Sep 9, 2013 at 10:41 AM.
Sep 9, 2013, 10:52 AM
#4
This is hilarious.
First, as mentioned above, the eccentric bolt goes in the top hole. When it's in the top hole, dot to the inside is less negative camber, but when you have bolt in the lower hole, the same dot direction adds more negative camber.
Second, the idea that you should slot the ears on the coilover and rely on the friction between the ears and the knuckle to maintain the alignment is nuts. And I say this as someone who has nothing against cutting OE springs, so it's not like I'm a purist.
edit: Third, unless all you do drag-race, -1.9* sounds just about right for a street-driven car that has to make turns. Set the rear to about -1.2*, zero toe all around (or a tad of rear toe-in), and drive the car.
First, as mentioned above, the eccentric bolt goes in the top hole. When it's in the top hole, dot to the inside is less negative camber, but when you have bolt in the lower hole, the same dot direction adds more negative camber.
Second, the idea that you should slot the ears on the coilover and rely on the friction between the ears and the knuckle to maintain the alignment is nuts. And I say this as someone who has nothing against cutting OE springs, so it's not like I'm a purist.
edit: Third, unless all you do drag-race, -1.9* sounds just about right for a street-driven car that has to make turns. Set the rear to about -1.2*, zero toe all around (or a tad of rear toe-in), and drive the car.
Sep 9, 2013, 11:25 AM
#5
The cars that come that way aren't rally-cars, are they? The people who do this to their cars aren't prepping rally-cars, are they?
I would not slot the ears on a fancy coilover if I expected the car to face large lateral g-forces (on pavement) or lateral impacts (on gravel).
Note: those are real questions in the first paragraph (for once); they are not my usual snide and rhetorical nonsense.
I would not slot the ears on a fancy coilover if I expected the car to face large lateral g-forces (on pavement) or lateral impacts (on gravel).
Note: those are real questions in the first paragraph (for once); they are not my usual snide and rhetorical nonsense.
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Sep 10, 2013, 10:52 AM
#10
What's surprising to me about this is the following:
If the FA plates go outwards at least as far as the center, which is where the shaft would be with the OE plates, then why do you have almost 2* of camber with the bolts set to 1*?
I know the car is lowered, but I don't think that the bump-camber curve is steep enough to get you the second degree. That's the down-side of struts (for road-racing): a relatively flat bump-camber curve.
If the FA plates go outwards at least as far as the center, which is where the shaft would be with the OE plates, then why do you have almost 2* of camber with the bolts set to 1*?
I know the car is lowered, but I don't think that the bump-camber curve is steep enough to get you the second degree. That's the down-side of struts (for road-racing): a relatively flat bump-camber curve.
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