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Evo X Replacing Front Rotors & Pads

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Old Mar 8, 2014 | 11:10 AM
  #1  
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Evo X Replacing Front Rotors & Pads

Worked with my friend on his 2011 X. If you fellow Evolution owners could check out my video and let me know how we did it would be great! Plan on doing many more projects on our cars and would love to help/share with everyone!
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 06:11 AM
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There are several good posts on how to swap pads and rotors. Not to say yours is bad, just potentially redundant.
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 11:05 AM
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Videos are always good. Keep em coming.
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Old Mar 16, 2014 | 03:27 PM
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Nice job guys.
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Old Mar 18, 2014 | 07:12 AM
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Visuals such as these videos always help, I know they help me. Good work.
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Old Mar 20, 2014 | 01:03 PM
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Thanks for posting!
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Old Apr 9, 2014 | 09:47 AM
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Pretty good video, but using a pry bar to push the pistons risks damaging the pistons or the caliper. Instead you should use an inexpensive purpose-built tool like this: http://www.corvettestoreonline.com/s...?productid=744
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Cool

Kool video. I will be replacing my rotors soon. They are making a loud whistling noise every time I brake lightly. when I brake hard rotors don't make any noise at all. I am also starting to see groves on the edge of rotors. Somewhat like the pads cutting into rotors. Thanks for vid.
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Old Jun 17, 2014 | 03:39 PM
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What tools did you use to complete the job?
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 11:32 AM
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only comment: it's "Evo 10" not "Evo X"
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 01:00 PM
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Thank you
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Old Jun 19, 2014 | 01:42 PM
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My one criticism is rather petty and/or ****, but I'll make it anyway to maintain my record.

When you have worn the pads down a lot, you should really open a bleeder when you press the pistons back (using the correct tool). Why? Because if you have worn the pads down a lot, you will be retracting the pistons a lot. If you leave the bleeders closed, you are forcing brake fluid back up through the system. This, in general, isn't that big a deal, but we happen to have a rather fancy ABS unit and it takes just one piece of crud to jam one of its valves. If you are retracting the pistons a lot, you might actually move enough fluid for a piece of crud, which usually start in the caliper, to make it all the way back to the ABS unit. Not good. And you're probably going to replace all the brake fluid anyway, so why not start the process now by cracking one or more bleeders while retracting the pistons?
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