Ohlin's VS. Ksport Bags VS. FA 500 with air piston
#17
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
what do you mean by rwd? loose? neutral on entry? i've got an m3 that is 50/50 and the evo will never feel like that, in exchange for being able to power out WOT. if you want to try, i'd just slap on a huge rear sway bar. or try running 8/12, etc.you may do more harm than good as far as lap times though
#22
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
fedja swears that a front sway bar makes his X looser. I take that to mean the AYC reads it and works overtime in getting the car to rotate. otherwise, that doesn't really make sense. but yea, the X is an interesting beast with the AYC. This is the first I've really heard anyone trying to make the car looser/more neutral
#23
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
You can try the 10/12 with the RSB, but I don't think the extra rear rate is warranted. The X does very well with square rate and an RSB. If the car is sketchy off throttle or on lift, you know you need to lower the rear spring rate.
#24
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
all good points but what i'm trying to rectify is the entry under-steer, nothing to do with the exit or the obvious AWD line to be chosen during an autox event. Also to be noted, like i said i turn all of the assists off during the events, so the ASC is in full off mode, while we can debate if its truly off or not, that's not what i'm debating. I've had swift springs on OEM struts, i've had the OEM suspension, and i've had the AMR coilovers, none of which where exactly how i wanted them. All of them had a lot to be desired in body roll and understeering. Mostly understeer is my devil... and we can talk about correct lines and driving properly till you're blue in the face, i realize i must be coming into the corner with to much speed if i'm inducing understeer, and i've backed off to come back in but i'm not seeing the benefits in the end times... if i beat the car around the track and really give it hell and have slight understeer in a few corners then i'll come out faster than if i slowly enter and give it hell coming out as you should. I realize what i'm saying doesn't seem right it doesn't follow the book of driving autox... i get it, been driving autox for more than 7 years now... not my first rodeo... but from others out here they've had some success with the 10/12 ratio front being softer, i'll mess with the sway bar i have and hopefully find a sweet spot that allows for less understeer and can handle a slightly hotter entery, and even if it doesn't handle it well i'd rather error on oversteer then understeer... got the power to pull it out of oversteer... nothing to be done with understeer, but slow down and wait.... roast away...
Last edited by SavageGSR; Jan 30, 2019 at 07:05 AM.
#25
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
lol. AYC is not a traction management system, it does not turn off. It transfers torque to the outside rear wheel. If anything, it will help. If you want less entry understeer, I think 10/10 or 10/12 will be a good starting place, plus an adjustable rear bar. you're just going to have to try it.
#26
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
correct miss spoke, ASC-off-off mode...my mistake... but you meant what i knew...
but glad the 10/12 will not be completely off base... I'm pretty hopeful this will be the desired effect for me... and if it makes me slower i'll just change out the springs another year, but this hopefully will be the kit that i use moving forward, Ohlins and cups... sadly though the rear will be re-valved for the stronger 12 spring rate in the rear... wonder what it would be like if i don't like the 12 rear and go to 10 rear but then the valving will be "out of wack" possibly? as we know the ohlins come with valving for lower spring rates... (10front/7rear if i remember correctly) but i'm not sure what the valving for a spring rate of 12 would be like moving down in springs, while i understand there is some flexibility between valving and spring rates, i think the method is a unit of 3/4 spring rate numbers that is allowable swing for the valving...?
but glad the 10/12 will not be completely off base... I'm pretty hopeful this will be the desired effect for me... and if it makes me slower i'll just change out the springs another year, but this hopefully will be the kit that i use moving forward, Ohlins and cups... sadly though the rear will be re-valved for the stronger 12 spring rate in the rear... wonder what it would be like if i don't like the 12 rear and go to 10 rear but then the valving will be "out of wack" possibly? as we know the ohlins come with valving for lower spring rates... (10front/7rear if i remember correctly) but i'm not sure what the valving for a spring rate of 12 would be like moving down in springs, while i understand there is some flexibility between valving and spring rates, i think the method is a unit of 3/4 spring rate numbers that is allowable swing for the valving...?
Last edited by SavageGSR; Jan 30, 2019 at 07:13 AM.
#27
Evolved Member
iTrader: (29)
correct miss spoke, ASC-off-off mode...my mistake... but you meant what i knew...
but glad the 10/12 will not be completely off base... I'm pretty hopeful this will be the desired effect for me... and if it makes me slower i'll just change out the springs another year, but this hopefully will be the kit that i use moving forward, Ohlins and cups... sadly though the rear will be re-valved for the stronger 12 spring rate in the rear... wonder what it would be like if i don't like the 12 rear and go to 10 rear but then the valving will be "out of wack" possibly? as we know the ohlins come with valving for lower spring rates... (10front/7rear if i remember correctly) but i'm not sure what the valving for a spring rate of 12 would be like moving down in springs, while i understand there is some flexibility between valving and spring rates, i think the method is a unit of 3/4 spring rate numbers that is allowable swing for the valving...?
but glad the 10/12 will not be completely off base... I'm pretty hopeful this will be the desired effect for me... and if it makes me slower i'll just change out the springs another year, but this hopefully will be the kit that i use moving forward, Ohlins and cups... sadly though the rear will be re-valved for the stronger 12 spring rate in the rear... wonder what it would be like if i don't like the 12 rear and go to 10 rear but then the valving will be "out of wack" possibly? as we know the ohlins come with valving for lower spring rates... (10front/7rear if i remember correctly) but i'm not sure what the valving for a spring rate of 12 would be like moving down in springs, while i understand there is some flexibility between valving and spring rates, i think the method is a unit of 3/4 spring rate numbers that is allowable swing for the valving...?
#29
EvoM Community Team Leader
iTrader: (60)
FWIW, my car is faster when I.drive the **** out of it, too. Not sure if it's because the car responds better or if I'm a worse driver at being "smooth". It just seems to like slight oversteer at exit. LOL. I know I do.
#30
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
just for clarity, in my cars current set up i can't get oversteer at all... not exit, not in apex, not entry, not possibly,,, without snow...