I use Valvoline's synthetic blend because I drive like an ******* on the freeways (I'm no stranger to the RPM cutoff). And, I change the oil at about 3500 mi, give or take. I'm not so worried about the viscosity breakdown as much as I am the crap that makes it past the filter, that's why I change so often.
Props to Cup about the Octane ratings (spot on info about uncombusted fuel in the cylinders).

GOOD INFO about the Fram additive in the filters. I'm definitely going to stay away from whichever one it is (and I'm thinking it's the Extra-Gard (grey) filter; it costs more). If WIX is available I'll go back to those. I've seen the cutaway and it's pretty impressive compared to the Fram. Word on the street is that DuraLube and other additives are just colored mineral oil. I don't want that anywhere near my engine, thanks.

I highly recommend buying a filter wrench that looks like a socket that will fit over the end of the filter, not a strap wrench. I bought the smallest strap style I could find and it was still too big. The socket type, though, needs to be "convinced" to work with a rubber mallet. Use a 3/8 drive ratchet extension to twist it off. Don't be surprised if it's a pain in the ***.

Good luck, and if a 2.5 or 3 ton floor jack and stands isn't in the budget, a good set of ramps will work too (although you may need to make pre-ramps out of 2x4s to get the car onto the ramps to get your OZ lip over the ramp part)

 

was it really hard to get your oil filter off?
mine just twists off with my hand

 

I got free dealership oil changes every 4000 miles with my deal.
Good or bad?

 

yea i got the same deal untill i hit the third oil change and they changed there mind

mitsubishi in all seriousness sucks
i talked to alot of people at there company and they are all *******s

 

With your filter liquid, my only concern with only a "handful" of torque holding your filter in, would be that over time through road vibration etc, of the filter wobbling loose or maybe bouncing around and hurting the thread. Little tip: when replacing the new filter, put a thin little later of oil around the seal with your finger to help form a nice little seal. Just something I do.

 

The sealing with a fingertip is another thing I forgot. It's a very good idea to deter loosening and/or leakage. I hand tightened mine, and believe me it was plenty tight, but a wrench is a far better way of doing it. No sense in risking your engine over something so silly as a wrench..

 

pjal, good advice, but it should be something EVERYONE does (putting oil on the rubber seal), because it is pretty much necessary unless you want your filter to never come out next time. if you don't lube it, next time you are gonna have a real hard time getting it out.

hand tighten should be good enough, the filter i used (fram) is like a grippy thing that doesn't really need a filter wrench. i used the filter wrench to get the original out and the excess oil formed a suction around it and i couldn't get the damn filter out of the wrench, had to slam it on the ground many times. similar thing happened trying to tighten new one on with wrench, so i just hand tightened it.

i believe 4 quarts of oil is the amount, 3.7 for the engine 0.3 for the filter, at least that's what it said in my owner's manual. and i wouldn't have been able to change it without a jack, i know you probably could but i couldn't really reach what with the OZ bodykit and my fat ***.

 

In all seriousness, with the fingertip worth of lube on the seal, I thought that was a given. Anyone who has changed oil with someone knowledgable really should know it, and it's a good thing it was mentioned for those that haven't.

Let me sum up the whole thread... with the right tools, time, and supplies, basic car maintance is fun!

 

Oh, and Cup, it's not just the OZs that have problems with ramps. My dad has a nice set of them, and if his driveway didn't have a slight... hill in it, then I never would have been able to get it up on them. Have to put it at the crest of a peak so that your nose is pointing up... otherwise, it's a no-go. First time I'd say the lancer is too low.

 

i didn't say anything about ramps, that was engineerboy. i just said that i couldn't fit underneath with my fat ***.

you think bubb rubb changes his own oil? WOO WOO!!

 

Probably what stuck with me, the visualization. *shudder*

In any case, whoever was saying it, read my post.

 

I find that pulling the R/F Wheel makes getting at things a ton easier... Also, gives you the chance to check your CV boots and brake pads for wear.

Any of you ever try the Royal Purple that's been advertised on TV lately? Just wondering.

 

in all honesty, i'm really not fat. but i still couldn't fit underneath to get at it. besides, there wasn't much room to fit an oil pan underneath, and get at the filter, and not faint from claustrophobia, and WOOO WOOOOOOOOOOO.

 

I wasn't saying the image of you (since I have no clue what you look like) was making me shudder, but, the thought about trying to cram my bulk under the Lancer. 5'11, 225 with shoulders about 2 and a half feet across, sometimes the jeep was a pinch.

 

dude you're a fat ****. just kidding. remind me not to mess with you. i'm only 5'10" 175. and as for removing the wheels, you should also rotate your tires every other oil change (if at 3k miles, or every change if 7500 miles). do in star pattern.