So, seems that all here agree that a TBE is the first mod to do. My concern is that I don't want to void my warranty for a handful of horses.

My dad once got an entire 2nd ECU flashed so he could just plug the stock one in when he brought the car to the dealer. Is that a possibility? What about the MBC?

Must I have a boost gauge, or can the MBC be tuned with a borrowed boost gauge, and then the boost gauge removed permanently?

 

If you're really concerned about the whole warranty thing, do not mod your car.
Simple as that. Just get a catback and call it a day, although just a catback won't do much.

Even with a tbe, you really need to get it tuned/flashed to take full advantage of the new parts installed.

Like I said before, if you're worried about warranty just leave it stock.

 

Someone on hear got there engine and drivetrain voided for a cat back. Another for TT
Listen to "19psi" if you want your warranty do not touch the car.

 

OK, I won't do anything that will void my warranty.

That said, just for the sake of conversation, let's imagine that I wanted more power.

Is an MBC something that can be installed and removed by someone with no experience beyond changing the oil and the wheels or building his own computer? Would I need a permanent boost gauge? How about just an ECU? How much power would I be missing without a minimal TBE upgrade? Would a Walbro be detectable by a mechanic at a dealership?

 

If you have to ask then you probably shouldn't. I had the intention of throwing my warranty out the window when I bought my evo, if you didn't buy yours on the same premiss then I suggest you hold off on it until you know 100% you want to do it and deal with any consequences it might bring.

 

So did any of you guys threw out the warranty out of the window then? If so, what else did u do besides TBE?

 

if you just go with a cat back that shouldnt void your warranty.MBC should be pretty easy to install and remove

 

Installing a MBC is fairly easy.
It just requires a bit of time and patience.
There is a very very good write up on how to do it in the forum.

If you're installing a MBC, get ready for your knuckles to get all scratched and possibly bleed.
The space to work on the car is very limited for a MBC install.

BTW, a boost gauge is required for you to monitor boost levels and it really shouldnt void your warranty..but a MBC will.

 

Start with a boost gauge so you can monitor your boost, may be too high or low from the factory. That should not void your warranty...

Next drive and learn about the car...

Next read, read, read about it...oh and don't forget to search, search, search about it...

Next try doing your own maintenance (make sure you keep records of everything)...

Once you do all this then I would make the decision about modding, starting with a full turbo back will definitely improve the hp. You can always pull it off if you have a big warranty issue.

Some smaller, less expensive mods that will also help are a better panel filter like works or K&N. Avoid cone filters unless you plan on getting a tune. The lower intercooler piping (LICP) will also help with spool up. These mods are not easily noticed when taking to the dealership.

Lastly once you do all this I would recommend getting a MBC and a tune. If you want to avoid any bolt on mods then just go for a stock tune.

 

I would suggest getting a boost gauge & keeping it. When you install a MBC, depending on temp, altitude, etc... the boost setting can fluctuate. Installation is not hard, but is noticeable. If you want the cleanest looking almost stock setup, go with the vishnu setup. A Walboro can be detected by the noise alone, but the way that it sits it is undetectable unless the fuel pump is removed entirely. Installing a full TBE will take about 1-2 hours w/ a friend. If I were you, I would get a TBE, MBC & flash it. Worst case scenario, put back on the old exhaust, stock boost cyl. & get it flashed back to stock. All can be done in 1 morning.

 

you could get a resonated test pipe and a mechanical CEL fix and run it. The cat is by far the biggest bottleneck. I have a resonated test pipe and cel fix for sale. You could easily swap it back in for a dealership visit as well..

 

Best mods for the money:

1) A tune from a reputable tuner will give by far the most HP per dollar. Even a mail-in tune can net you 50 HP if you get it from the right tuner. This would void your warranty, but with ECUFlash, its easy enough to switch back and forth between stock and tuned.

2) Drop-in airfilter. Works seems to be the acknowledged best. Doesn't void the warranty.

3) High flow cat. Some, like the Works HFC, are indistinguishable from stock, and either way, it shouldn't void your warranty. You'll probably have to say something like your OEM got pummelled by a driveway so you have a legit excuse to change it out.

With many tuners now doing boost-controlling flashes, I don't see the need for an MBC.

Do get a boost gauge if your car is a non-MR. Lots of choices. All seem to have about the same accuracy. You should also get EvoScan and ECUFlash so that you can monitor knock and switch between stock/modified flashes.

 

it dont matter what you doo to your car if you are a young kid driving a evo the mitsu dealer is not gonna honner the warrenty
thats jus how it, is so mod away