1.2 bar on Evo IX !?
in my experience the factory gauge was reading 2 psi high so i'm sure they aren't all that accurate to go by. i'd definitely do a leak test anyway and would reccomend it to anyone that hasn't since even from the factory, these cars usually have some small leaks somewhere that you won't notice unless severe, but you will definitely notice the improvement when they're fixed. i do them periodically as part of my preventative maintenance.
stock gauges are in kg/cm and not bar... reads a little higher than Bar. Here is the conversion calculator. http://www.csgnetwork.com/boostprescalc.html
my stock IX would do the same, it would go 1.2 kg/cm to .9 or 1.0 at redline
my stock IX would do the same, it would go 1.2 kg/cm to .9 or 1.0 at redline
Is there a write up about the differences between a electronic and manual boost controller? I had a manual boost controller in my old car and liked it a lot, so is there any benefit using a manual one?
HKS EVC PRO
Greddy Profec B SPEC II
Original Greddy Profec Spec B
Greddy Type S
Greddy E-01
Kinetic Manual MBC
Hallaman MBC
APEXI
I like simplicity, even though not all of the BC I listed above are simple. Obviously the electronic ones you can switch between high and low boost on the fly which is a nice feature. My favorite is the Greddy Type S or the Original Greddy Profec Spec B, so easy to use and hold boost just great.
My kinetic manual boost controller did it's job for $40. Sure I had to pop the hood to change the boost levels, but I didn't change them to much so it was ok with me. IMO I feel that the Greddy Type S held boost better for me, maybe It's all in my head but I liked that BC a lot.
If your a little tight on cash get a MBC, if you feel like spending some money and have in cabin control of your boost, then the Greddy Type S would be my choice.
Hope this helped a little.
, I think I'll break down and get a profec type s.






