btw do I need cam gear with cossi m2, cause I know some 272 does?

 

you dont need cam gears unless you are trying to shift the power band around, i have M2s on my 8 and the tech guys at cosworth told me the optimum setting for them is 0/0

 

How long does it take to dial in cams?
And, when they get adjusted, does the t-belt need to come off?

 

what do you guy think about used cams?

 

depends on the brand of course and if they aren't damaged

 

gotspeed,

the biggest deciding factor amongst any of the cams listed is going to be if you want to install valve springs. I for one will tell you not to install our S2 cams on stock valve springs. why? because of things like valve flutter, valve float, jerk and other terms that after any length of time will cause damage to your engine. after looking over what kevin down at kelford cams wrote in an email he doesnt think running his 272's on stock valve train is a good idea either. He stated that under 8k and under 18psi of boost they would be ok. my question is how many evo's run 18psi? mine came from mitsu with 21psi.

Now as far as which 272 you should run, you need to answer the question if your are willing to install valve springs or not.





I am going to disagree with you, this cam has made over 900whp, this set has made over 500whp on an evo 9 stock turbo, and there are over 400 sets around the world with very few complaints. Are you sure your tuner/installer wasn’t having a bad day? Tuning Mivec cams can be very very tricky.

 

Well put Greg...

 

i got hks 280s n i dont have valve springs

 

Any low lift and mild ramp rate cams don't need springs.

More aggressive cams require springs like the aforementioned s2's.

 

GregGSC ................thanks for the info.

RoadSpike...............I thought 280 is more aggressive than 272? maybe I'll get the 280 as I'm not looking to upgrade my spring, not enough fund.
How do you like your GSC S1 cams, how much hp they make?
Thanks..........

 

BF 272's!

 

anothing thing you need to think about when doing cams is your mods, a GSC s2 cam is made for a 35r on a 2.0 reving high or a built motor reving to about 8k... GSC s1 is made for a stock turbo....

HKS cams dont need springs and retainers because they are very mild and have a low lift, but have a smaller result then a more agressive cam, ie GSC, kelford, cossie, ect

you need to look at the whole picture instead of just what acouple people say, what greg from gsc said was dead on as well!!!! of course!

Search on here for AMS result on there cam test and it has every cam worth getting on there tested and shows all the results, you know they know there shiiiittt.... they also have on there, how it idles, what they think about them and why you should get them, stock or aftermarket ecu, ECT!!!

 

You are correct that the 280 duration is longer but they are not more aggressive.

There are two other measurements that make other cams than HKS like JUN 272's or the BF 272s much more aggressive than the hks cams. The things we are looking at are how much lift is used and the ramp rates are.

To use an analogy if you opened a door the hks cam would be like cracking it open slowly half way then slowly closing it. The JUN and BF cams kick the door open and slam the door shut. Even if both cams have the door "open" for 272 degrees the BF and JUN cams have it open wider for a longer period of time.

This aggressive opening action is why valve springs are recommended for aggressive cam setups. If the spring isn't taught enough it will float and then bounce off the valve spinning around as it settles.


S1's:
Honestly it took a lot more tuning on my end to receive the benefits of the s1 cams then i had anticipated. The gains are clearly good but its not exactly a HUGE benefit like other more aggressive cams. I guess the good points of this cam is the idle quality is fantastic and the top end is much improved. The bottom end didn't suffer any downsides and in fact my mid range seems more peppy. But i digress i didn't get these cams because i was going for power, I got these cams because I live in California and I need to pass the sniffer. I only have data logs from self tuning so take it what its worth. But the cams on our crappy *** 91 octane fuel seem to be worth about 15-25whp.

If you want the power you need bigger cams. If i didn't have these rules here I'd have the BF 272's and a stage 3 head in my car instantly .

 

Havent had a chance to run a dyno yet since the closest dyno is over 500miles from me. Im getting there when spring hits. As of now, top end has improved greatly with these cams.

 

This is the biggest factor for not seeing the true gains of these cams. Once I got mapped for 100, I could feel the cams really wake up.