how much of this actually needed for 500-550whp?
Ok well heres what i have an heres what i made...
Ams cat back with hf cat
AP 35r kit with .63 exhaust housing.
Kelford 272, dual springs and retainers
FPR, fuel rail, and 1000cc injectors,
Ams front mount and piping
Head studs and rod bolts
AEM true boost
I put down 475 hp and 354 trq, on 93,with a boost leak somewhere....it wasnt hitting 25psi until 7000rpms and it was being reved out to 8200, so...it doesnt take much, gl
This was b4 i was stroked also so...i dont know what i am now
Ams cat back with hf cat
AP 35r kit with .63 exhaust housing.
Kelford 272, dual springs and retainers
FPR, fuel rail, and 1000cc injectors,
Ams front mount and piping
Head studs and rod bolts
AEM true boost
I put down 475 hp and 354 trq, on 93,with a boost leak somewhere....it wasnt hitting 25psi until 7000rpms and it was being reved out to 8200, so...it doesnt take much, gl
This was b4 i was stroked also so...i dont know what i am now
mine is daily driven at 523 awhp at 22 psi, and with meth (snow performance) a little over 600. It is running the STOCK internal motor and Buddy Club 264 cams, STOCK valvetrain, STOCK transmission, ACT street clutch, ACT flywheel, STOCK axles, AEM EMS, Peakboost GT30R .73 trim FTW kit, 5-zigen FNO1-RC 18x8.5 wheels, Toyo Proxes 4 tires, HKS SSQV blow off valve, RC engineering 1000cc injectors, AEM boost control solenoid, Trust full titanium exhaust, 93 octane, NO MAF sensor (running speed density mode) and has been running better than stock for quite some time. I have about $11,000 TOTAL in the mods AND labor. With a fully built motor and the right parts like you mentioned you can make 700+ whp. I can tell you that a 400+ whp evo on the street is VERY tempting to race anything that gives you the ricer fly-by. You probably will get in trouble with it. I was lucky in the fact that during my younger years I learned from my mistakes and treat this car with respect and do 99% of the racing at the track. I have only gotten it above 85 less than 10 times on a public highway. Just if you do get this much power PLEASE be careful, especially as a daily driver.
Last edited by myevo8you; Mar 15, 2009 at 02:18 PM.
mine is daily driven at 523 awhp at 22 psi, and with meth (snow performance) a little over 600. It is running the STOCK internal motor and Buddy Club 264 cams, STOCK valvetrain, STOCK transmission, ACT street clutch, ACT flywheel, STOCK axles, AEM EMS, Peakboost GT30R .73 trim FTW kit, 5-zigen FNO1-RC 18x8.5 wheels, Toyo Proxes 4 tires, HKS SSQV blow off valve, RC engineering 1000cc injectors, AEM boost control solenoid, Trust full titanium exhaust, 93 octane, NO MAF sensor (running speed density mode) and has been running better than stock for quite some time. I have about $11,000 TOTAL in the mods AND labor. With a fully built motor and the right parts like you mentioned you can make 700+ whp. I can tell you that a 400+ whp evo on the street is VERY tempting to race anything that gives you the ricer fly-by. You probably will get in trouble with it. I was lucky in the fact that during my younger years I learned from my mistakes and treat this car with respect and do 99% of the racing at the track. I have only gotten it above 85 less than 10 times on a public highway. Just if you do get this much power PLEASE be careful, especially as a daily driver.
Man I have been out of the game for awhile... Please tell me you meant something like 32psi of boost?
No, its really 22 psi. and it was a Mustang AWD/2wd dyno setup that has the disconnect for the pulley on the rear rollers to be converted. It is one of the highest numbers that they have seen too on a GT30R (garrett) on a Evo. We are also skeptical about the calibration from the start thats why we are re-dynoing it here on Wednesday with a different person calibrating it. We actually have the dyno all day and all we need to actually do is a large diameter intake on a STI and re-tune the factory ECU to accept it so thats only going to take 2-3 hours tops, and after that its time for the Evo again. I have seen an average of about 430-460 on this setup without the AEM and just a re-done factory ECU but i seriously doubt that a 100 whp difference will be seen. My POS computer isn't allowing me to post images, but if you guys go to www.myspace.com/hondab16tuner you can check out the car and let me know what you think. I'm kinda anxious about seeing what numbers it puts up with this other person setting up the dyno. Realistically if I see 500-520 whp WITH meth on 22psi I will be ecstatic. And we all know that the Mustang Dyno is one of the lowest HP ratings you can get. If I can find the original sheet from them I'll post it to the myspace, but it could be a while as it might have gotten tossed or still in a box from the move, but at the very least a new one will be posted either late Wed. or Thur. OH, if you guys have a myspace account dont be afraid to ask for a friend request.
No, its really 22 psi. and it was a Mustang AWD/2wd dyno setup that has the disconnect for the pulley on the rear rollers to be converted. It is one of the highest numbers that they have seen too on a GT30R (garrett) on a Evo. We are also skeptical about the calibration from the start thats why we are re-dynoing it here on Wednesday with a different person calibrating it. We actually have the dyno all day and all we need to actually do is a large diameter intake on a STI and re-tune the factory ECU to accept it so thats only going to take 2-3 hours tops, and after that its time for the Evo again. I have seen an average of about 430-460 on this setup without the AEM and just a re-done factory ECU but i seriously doubt that a 100 whp difference will be seen. My POS computer isn't allowing me to post images, but if you guys go to www.myspace.com/hondab16tuner you can check out the car and let me know what you think. I'm kinda anxious about seeing what numbers it puts up with this other person setting up the dyno. Realistically if I see 500-520 whp WITH meth on 22psi I will be ecstatic. And we all know that the Mustang Dyno is one of the lowest HP ratings you can get. If I can find the original sheet from them I'll post it to the myspace, but it could be a while as it might have gotten tossed or still in a box from the move, but at the very least a new one will be posted either late Wed. or Thur. OH, if you guys have a myspace account dont be afraid to ask for a friend request.
myevo8you's car was probably dyno'd at automotion, whos mustang dyno has been recalibrated to read high to emulate dynojet numbers. It has been verified that it reads higher than a dynojet though.
looks all about right for RELIABLE 550+.. you dont need our driveshaft and you dont NEED lightweight parts.. it all helps though..
You dont need the axles though.. if you break 1 they are 175.00 and i ran 8's on stock axles and buschur ran 9.0 on stock axles so its not a must..
MIke
You dont need the axles though.. if you break 1 they are 175.00 and i ran 8's on stock axles and buschur ran 9.0 on stock axles so its not a must..
MIke
yeah but Mike, I've heard of people breaking rear axles on little more than stock cars. just to put that out there it can happen. Your probably right though mine are good at 555 but I worry if I lock up really good one time that's all it would take to snap them.


