I pmed "jrod" and asked about how to get to my 500-550whp goal and this was his response

Buschur Racing Stage 3 Shortblock w/ J&E Pistons & Crower Connecting Rods: $3050
Buschur Racing Stage 3 Head (Fully ported, polished valve springs & Retainers, o-ringed, the works...): $1600
Buschur Racing 3" Cat back Exhaust: $469
Buschur Racing 3” off-road pipe: $159
Buschur Racing Custom Manual Boost Controller: $110
Buschur Racing Mass Air Pipe and Filter w/ 4" to 3" coupling for Turbo Kit: $309
Buschur Racing Upper Intercooler Piping with TiAL BOV: $520
Buschur Racing Lower Intercooler Piping: $289
Buschur Racing Race Front Mount Intercooler: $799
Buschur Racing Mini Battery Kit: $280
Buschur Racing 1200cc Fuel Injectors: $450
Bushwacker Transmission: $850 (starting price) Many options available
Driveshaft Shop Level 5 Rear Axles: $1899
AWD Motorsports Lightened Driveshaft: $800
Buschur Racing Spec BF272 Cams: $600
Custom Heavy Duty Headstuds: $299
Buschur Racing Evo Coil On Plug Ignition: $980
Complete Engine Gasket Kit: $279
New Front Cover w/ Oil Pump: $210
Gates HD Timing Belt: $135
Timing Belt Tensioner: $115
Buschur Racing Twin Pump Fuel System: $500
Buschur Racing AEM EMS FULL Kit: $2199
Buschur Racing FS635 COMPLETE Turbo Kit w/ Tubular Manifold: $4395
Ceramic coating for turbo kit hot parts: $375
Buschur Racing Motor Mounts:$85
Exedy Triple Plate Clutch Kit: $2300
Buschur Racing Shifter Bushings: $30
Buschur Racing Ported Intake Manifold: $149 (priced with your good core manifold)
Buschur Racing 65mm Throttlebody: $300 (priced with your good core)
Buschur Racing Front Center Member: $275
Buschur Racing Driveshaft Loop: $275
Transmission Scattershield: $200
Buschur Racing Side Diff Supports: $275
Buschur Racing Mustache Bar: $275
CBRD Lighweight/Thin Aluminum Racing Radiator: $499

now... Im not cheap.... but I didnt think itd be this much!!!

is this overbuilt for 550whp? if so what dont i need?

just from looking it looks like the injectors are bigger than needed, the transmission might not be needed, and some of the driveshaft parts

any advice?

can someone quote and bold the parts that would actually be necessary (remember, i dont want my car to break lol)

 

The other stuff will help a lot but isn't necessary! But I have to say if you pm someone and they answer, you should be happy that they took the time to do it and not just second guess them!
With all the parts listed it would be the most reliable 500whp not "I might break something if i actually get on it" So just my .02

 

i don't wanna add up those numbers! From looking over the parts, evoixreno is right, that will be one reliable 500hp+ car

 

ya, that would definately be a daily driven 500+ whp car

 

like above posters said, you can def reach 500 whp with much less mods. but with everything listed, man that will be one reliable car that you can beat on hard everyday and not have to worry about anything. again, be thankful someone got back to you! thats good customer service for sure. if you got the loot, do it and not worry about paying to fix things. gl!

 

like said above he is stating a reliable 500+whp car not just some engine on steriods engine that will probably blow in a few min. engine. realize the question your asking and then try to make it more define. do you want the most reliable? the most expensive? the cheapest? there are a lot of ways to make(some) cars 500 whp but is it the safest way not always.

 

26334 all added up, using the 'starting price' on the transmission...

I'm sure the price on the engine parts like shortblock and heads are based on core exchange only.

Don't forget the labor unless you are a heck of a mechanic who can put all that on yourself.

If you want a 550whp car, you need to pay to play.


But...


For under 60k total including the car, I think it is a heck of a deal if you're building on a new car or nearly new car, as I can't think of many that can do that. Looking at the parts, its not only reliability factor that is included but also safety (ie you don't want to be impaled by a snapped axle).

 

yeah definitely dont want to be impaled by anything haha

im not second guessing him either, he is a great guy from what it seems, just wanted a second opinion, on the other forums guysll PM you everything you "need" just for profit when really its not needed at all

the only thing is damn!!! 27k for all that

 

i think the question he should be asking is how much horsepower can he get for x amount of dollars!!!! (x = his bank account) trust me when i say i have almost that into my car for the 565whp, and my wife isnt happy about it. but it will take you close to 20 if not just over to make a reliable 500whp car.

 

how reliable are your cars? (guys pushing mid 500 numbers)

should i expect it to be down alot with that much power? or will it be a good daily driver if its built right

 

I think there's another (bigger) question that you haven't asked yourself: What do you want this car to do? A stock or lightly modded Evo is a pretty well-balanced car. Dropping in power/drive-train mods to get to 500+ awhp leaves the braking and suspension system well out of line with what the car is capable of putting to the ground. If you're wanting the HP to beat around the street and do the occasional blatant exhibition of acceleration, the above is fine. If you plan on taking this to the autoX or road course, you need to factor in some thoughts on how you're going to stop and turn that beast as well.

And for the reliability question - you make that much power, expect things to break. My 370 awhp VIII was a perfectly reliable machine, but I also got rid of it at 62k miles, before things really would start breaking of their own accord.

 

yea 500 hp is not cheap man lol maybe you will be happy with 400-420 hp lol does not take to many mods to get there of course your looking at this all wrong unless you have that much laying around builds take time bro. you buy one part at a time and so forth till you have them all. install them as you go. you will eventually get there. why do you think you see people doing 1-4 year builds on there cars. most of us have other bills to pay and things come up besides car things. So again LOOK at this as a project car and dont rush it enjoy it and i can garantee you as your building NEWER BETTER parts will hit the market. when i got my evo its was all about the fp green but i was fixing all the little issue first with the car. THEN BAM FP RED hits the market couple hundred more and way more power so just chill can take your time pick a starting point and work out from there. there is alot of mods to be dont EXTERIOR as well bro so lots of money to be spent and take time to make it. thats what im doing. Remember this is not a race with people nobody cares how fast your evo is as long as your happy and with this economy you dont want to go broke trying to build a car to quick

 

great way to look at it man... thanks

 

car is driven every day. its my daily driver. ive had issues with it but its from the place i had build it. im sure if you go to a awesome shop like buschar or ams, you shouldnt have a problem and if you do, these guys im sure will be most happy to stand behind it, depending on whats goin on. you have to realize that when pushing this much hp that things are gonna happen or break!!! Im not constantly beating on my car nor at the track, its just a daily driver that whips the he!! out of unsuspecting V-8's. If i had to do it over again i would bring it to ams or buschar, you cant go wrong with those 2 shops. tell them what your budget is and your goal and they will tell you what you can expect. sure you can do it for alot less but then reliability is sacraficed, trust me!!!! the only thing i would have different rite now is the tranny but dont have the $$$ for it. so i kknow i can beat on it.

 

So modding it lightly for around 350-400, would you still get rid of it after 60k miles? I want a fun, somewhat fast daily driver.