Hi all!

Just recently picked up a new 2014 PB GSR. Finally have 100 miles on her and Im ready to do some work. I would like to know what first mods you guys would go with if you could do it all over again?

1.) I have mud flaps and a ETS intake on the way. Im thinking about picking up a EBC, test pipe, and Cobb AP for starters but im curious as to what will give me the biggest bang for my buck. Will I be able to find a map for those upgrades or will i need to pickup a wideband so I can street tune it myself?

2.) On the stock block what power can it take reliably?
3.) Same question on the clutch? (assuming im not beating the **** out of it)

Thanks!

 

anything up to 400hp/torque I heard was safe for the block and the clutch. going over that then you may need to address that with an upgraded clutch, studs etc...

 

1. I'd look into a real tune, or a pro-tune as COBB calls it. A wideband is a good investment regardless.

2. Horsepower isn't the issue, it's torque. I've seen 400+ HP reliably. The torque is like 350-400, I guess it depends on who you ask. Personally I'd stop at 360 just to be safe.

3. Clutch lasts as long as you don't abuse it. I'm at 340/350 OEM Clutch.

 

All of these questions have been beaten to death on this forum.

You're on the right track though.

Pro tune the AP (use OTS maps in the mean time); the torque number to stop at depends on the dyno.

 

Yes on the pro tune... AP ,IMO, not worth it...

Just don't launch it and dont grind gears and you "should' be fine...

 

Bolt ons and E85 and be done with it. As far as AP. I was looking at that when I first got my Evo but I was talked out if it here and kind of glad I was. Just get tuned by a shop. AP may be cool but it's still a generic tune. Sure you can have somebody tune the AP but now you spent enough for two tunes.

Unless there are no good shops by you, then AP might be the only way. But if you have E by you, it's going to make the biggest difference per $ spent. After that you have to go turbo upgrade.

I'm getting 397 HP 371 tq on E. Of course every dyno is different but I got a little over 60hp from the E comparing on the same dyno. That's bit bad for 1100$ total.

BTW It's nice to see others that just go for it and don't wait 3 years for a warranty to expire. Im glad I did it right away. I never has a warranty problem. Would have been a waste for be to have waited.

They should have a private forum just for the brave. Lol