I'm having some issues with bad idle, CEL (multi codes). I have a custom Dynoflash, (which I very happy with). I got a UTEC to make adjustments for additional mods.
Anybody else having problems with the UTEC that has any type of ECU flash?

 

The maps sent with the utec are for a stock ecu. You might have to reflash to stock

 

Although I wouldn't have expected it to be a problem, the thing I can see with open loop fueling and injector scaling, is its possible its taking the closed loop and low load info, and "Offsetting" it to compensate for differences in trims with new injectors.. In that case, it would severely "double compensate" if the flash is already doing it.. I really cannot think of any other reason why it would be troublesome.

Once your dealing with open loop fueling though (with OLF enabled), the injectors and timing are directly driven by the UTEC and the ECU's values are disregarded.. but there's likely some level of passthrough going on for the closed loop fueling.

 

I have NO problems whatsoever. I have a Dynoflash and am running VErsion 1.7 with OLF with no issues. My Utec is working perfect .

 

Did your dynoflash scale for aftermarket injectors? I don't recall offhand.

 

Jack, no it didn't scale for injectors. I sent you a pm.

 

I have the issues you have man. Luis, its just a matter of time for you bro. Once you upgrade the injectors, you will have probs. My first issue I had after I upgraded to firmware 1.7 was the OLF "hiccup". It needs to be tuned out changing many of the values from the stage 2 timing back to ECU. Its trial and error. I had TT come down to tune me and only tuned me at WOT. They did not touch the stage 2 timing otherwise. I am considering going back to stock injectors and just running the flash until some of these problems are resolved. I have more stalling issues than ever imaginable. I almost got into a wreck today because the car stalled going through the middle of the intersection. Nothing on the car has been changed other than firmware 1.7 adding 750cc injectors and scaling them down and having it road tuned by TT. It could be the flash thats the problem, but I wont know until I can get someone to flash it back to stock. If that means I have to wait for TT to come back in January, which they are, then I can try again then. I'll also check the plugs becasue if they are not scaled correctly and you run at full throttle then they are probably caked with soot. VTECH8TR has my logs and were sent to Jermaine at TXS. Well see what he can do. Also Malibujack is a guru with this UTEC and he is looking at my logs as well. We kind of feel that the OLF hiccup is definitley related to the transition of timing when it goes into OLF and the low rpm knock is due to the timing being too aggressive. With the low rpm knock, I might have to make a universal adjustment to the timing and back it off 1 degree or so to maybe help that. Keep us updated as well as I will when things digress or progress. You can PM to because I know it helps when you are frustrated and trying to work things out. Yeah, I am going to wait for Jermaine and Malibujack to get back with me first so we can make some changes and then if that doesnt work then stock injectors and flash I go.

 

I highly doubt i will have the problems that you are experiencing. Why? Because you have compounded problems. You added injectors that were not yet needed, and changed your cam gears at the tune and left them loose, which in turn caused them to move 12 degrees out of timing. Did they move when the tune was taking place, i don't know. I think you should PM Turbotrix about your issues and let them know what happened. IMO you probably have a tune that is probably not working correctly with the problems you found and fixed.


I think you should go BACK to stock injectors and put the UTEC back on MAP 0, from their work in BABY steps to fix your problem.

 

Well, like I said before I am not too sure if the cam gear slipped to -12 or what. After I loosened the bolts is when I noticed where the tick mark was. The bolts seemed to be pretty tight as it took a few turns on the wrench to loosen them up so I could move the gear. I assumed that with the rotational force of the motor, that it could have moved all the way to -12 if the bolts werent completely tightened. You are right about the injectors. I didnt need them yet but thats what I thought injector scaling was for. With a bigger turbo or not shouldnt affect the idel as far as being too rich if tuned properly. AS far as the cam gears, I talked to Junior again and said that 0/0 is the best spot. Said that the 272s were perfectly matched and shouldnt be touched unless you wanted to do +1i/0e. After talking with Junior, he said he did only tune the car at WOT so all the stage 2 timing at the lower rpms is causing part of my problems. Basically the car was running like a champ until we upgraded to 1.7. If there is a way I can go back I would.

 

Well this is kinda bad. I have basically the same setup as you. I am going to install the cams/cam gears this month. I too am going to have TurboTrix doing a tune for me in Dallas in December. I was going to upgrade the firmware and install the injectors in the parking lot at the event. From what I have read about what you did, it seems that maybe I should rethink this. What are your suggestions?

 

You might not have a problem. I suggest you make sure that TT gets rid of your flash if you have one and flash it back to stock. This will eliminate any compunded problems after the tune. Malibujack is a real guru and says you really have to be patient with the tuning. TT isnt going to spend all day on your car. They just tuned me for WOT. I suggest to go with a flash only and let them raod tune it. V8KILLEr is very happy with his flash. I kind of wish I did that instead until these quirks are resolved. They will also tell you set the cam geras at 0/0 if your are adjustable.

 

i have no flash, i dont know if thats your problem but i suspect it is...i think your ending up compensating twice because of the flash and the utec scaling....i have no flash.....i have absolutely no problems with my setup other than the little hiccup during switch over and back but its barely noticeable.. unless i hang out at 30% tps then it jerks a little.....

 

There's no question it takes time.. We'll see as things progress, I can't talk from any experience with a reflash since I prefer not to use flashes, but if its adjusted a certain way, and the UTEC is expecting something else at the transition point, then you will likely get a slightly bigger jump in your fuel curve than you would with a stock ECU.

 

Thats good news. I wish I had known in advance because then I could have said either flash me back to stock and then tune me or I'll just have to wait until this is resolved.

 

Interesting subject - first I am hearing of this. I am somewhat relieved to see the problem which is reported is occuring in both the TT flash and in my Dyno Flash. Although I am concerend for those effected.

I have dozens of cars running a base Dyno Flash with a utec on top for fine tuning and NONE have had any issue like this one what so ever.

Its nice to run the flash sometimes as your base as you can have a very solid base line and also the flash has certain advantages over the stock map. Many of which may be moot with the new Utech updated softwear - which I have not tested yet.

As for Bishiboy - - I have several options for you - you can send it in to get it flashed back to stock. You can visit me while I am in LA next week and we can experiment with it and find out why its doing this - (I am curious). Or you can just get my new idel flash set up installed and stay with the Dyno Flash. Let me know - sorry you have some compatability issues between the two systems.