aem truboost question
I noticed this restrictor a few weeks ago when I was rerouting the hose/oil temp wire from the factory slop through a grommet. I started a thread asking about it and how it would affect my boost readings and how it would affect how well my Tru-boost would control boost, but no one replied to it. I was going to take it out, but I wanted to be sure it wasn't there for a good reason.
Apparently I should take it out?
Apparently I should take it out?
Generally, putting your gauge on the fuel presure regulator line is a terrible idea, as it creates another mode of catastrophic engine failure if you have a leak in the boost gauge line or gauge itself it will cause the engine to lean out. The car is somewhat protected from this in stock form, with the boost cut feature, but once modified it becomes a dangerous point of failure (especially if boost cut is disabled). I believe several engine failures have been linked back to leaks at this location.
This is what I'm doing but I have the solenoid connected to the the ECU which gives you RPM dependant closed loop boost control instead of a solitary WGDC and spring crack pressure value.
Last edited by Mr. Evo IX; Aug 7, 2008 at 02:01 PM.
Yes you can, you have to turn the gauge to OFF instead of A or B, hold the left button for a few seconds and release and it will turn to B, do it again and it will turn to OFF. When in OFF mode the solenoid does not have to be connected to the gauge. Peak hold is great, more gauges should have this feature.
This is what I'm doing but I have the solenoid connected to the the ECU which gives you RPM dependant closed loop boost control instead of a solitary WGDC and spring crack pressure value.
This is what I'm doing but I have the solenoid connected to the the ECU which gives you RPM dependant closed loop boost control instead of a solitary WGDC and spring crack pressure value.
Sorry, I didnt see your original thread or I would have answered your question. Yes, It can affect your boost readings - it affected mine and I was able to validate that today. I suggest moving the T to the front of the mani where the BOV hose is attached. I am currently tuning a car on 100% meth and his Defi gauge was connected to the stock gauge T and was reading a lb or so less vacuum and the spike was reading a few lbs less boost. The gauge also held rock solid boost with the restrictor, even though the logs were telling a different story.
Generally, putting your gauge on the fuel presure regulator line is a terrible idea, as it creates another mode of catastrophic engine failure if you have a leak in the boost gauge line or gauge itself it will cause the engine to lean out. The car is somewhat protected from this in stock form, with the boost cut feature, but once modified it becomes a dangerous point of failure (especially if boost cut is disabled). I believe several engine failures have been linked back to leaks at this location.
Generally, putting your gauge on the fuel presure regulator line is a terrible idea, as it creates another mode of catastrophic engine failure if you have a leak in the boost gauge line or gauge itself it will cause the engine to lean out. The car is somewhat protected from this in stock form, with the boost cut feature, but once modified it becomes a dangerous point of failure (especially if boost cut is disabled). I believe several engine failures have been linked back to leaks at this location.
What are your boost readings at start up with car at idle? I am showing .10. I think I might have set the thing up wrong. My pressure hose is coming right off the IM behind the throttle body. When I rev nothing happens. The reading stays at .10. Oh and my cars clutch is fried so i can't drive it. Kinda stupid of me to install this without being able to drive it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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CNano8
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Sep 18, 2013 06:58 AM
