OFFICIAL VIPEC THREAD - V44 PnP & V88 Thread
Can I tune wot with the wastegate flapper unhooked then hook up the wastegate and have those cells tuned with it un hooked be accurate or will ve be changed that much? Just trying to be on point nailing street drivability.
Last edited by 211Ratsbud; Jun 16, 2014 at 07:38 PM.
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Ok so I see why you'd be thinking the question. Wastegate blows open and gives you higher VE at a given MAP than what you would otherwise have. I guess.
But I would not want to give an opinion one way or the other about the tuning accuracy of doing it that way.
Are you having trouble doing the last several cells in the high load high RPM area?
I spent last week working on my cousin's 1958 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce. Different world!
But I would not want to give an opinion one way or the other about the tuning accuracy of doing it that way.
Are you having trouble doing the last several cells in the high load high RPM area?
I spent last week working on my cousin's 1958 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce. Different world!
I imagine this is at idle that you notice this - when alternator output is a little weak?
If so, it sounds like your AEM is sensitive to voltage fluctuations in the electrical system. Seems kind of lame though. Or else a grounding issue but I think you said you fixed that one a while back.
I know the AEM is one of the most commonly used widebands but it is also commonly complained about. Vipec manual recommends the Innovate LC-1, which is what I have, and I don't notice any oddities with mine. Well I may have had a MAF oddity until I gave the MAF a better ground. I'm grounding all my sensors and MAF to a big 10mm bolt that goes into thick chassis metal near a motor mount, and I added a new 40 amp circuit directly to the battery post with it's own relay to power all my sensors, including GM MAF. Yeah I'm not with the Vipec yet.
Last edited by Talonboost; Jul 17, 2014 at 02:33 PM.
Did you ever get this figured out?
I imagine this is at idle that you notice this - when alternator output is a little weak?
If so, it sounds like your AEM is sensitive to voltage fluctuations in the electrical system. Seems kind of lame though. Or else a grounding issue but I think you said you fixed that one a while back.
I know the AEM is one of the most commonly used widebands but it is also commonly complained about. Vipec manual recommends the Innovate LC-1, which is what I have, and I don't notice any oddities with mine. Well I may have had a MAF oddity until I gave the MAF a better ground. I'm grounding all my sensors and MAF to a big 10mm bolt that goes into thick chassis metal near a motor mount, and I added a new 40 amp circuit directly to the battery post with it's own relay to power all my sensors, including GM MAF. Yeah I'm not with the Vipec yet.
I don't know if you've ever shopped for automotive relays before, but here's what I'm using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3020762
I picked this one out for hopefully robust reliability in the tough engine bay environment and mine has been perfect so far. There is a complete pdf spec sheet for it under the "support" tab. I bought the Bosch type socket for it with pigtails from Parts Express, and used actual engine compartment wire bought from Allied Wire. I think Radio Shack also sells the socket with pigtails.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3020762
I picked this one out for hopefully robust reliability in the tough engine bay environment and mine has been perfect so far. There is a complete pdf spec sheet for it under the "support" tab. I bought the Bosch type socket for it with pigtails from Parts Express, and used actual engine compartment wire bought from Allied Wire. I think Radio Shack also sells the socket with pigtails.
I don't know if you've ever shopped for automotive relays before, but here's what I'm using:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=3020762
I picked this one out for hopefully robust reliability in the tough engine bay environment and mine has been perfect so far. There is a complete pdf spec sheet for it under the "support" tab. I bought the Bosch type socket for it with pigtails from Parts Express, and used actual engine compartment wire bought from Allied Wire. I think Radio Shack also sells the socket with pigtails.
EBAY seller never shipped my order 3 weeks ago for a flywheel so I'm going to flog the snot out of this thing when it's running. I have yet to delve in to the logging stuff due to previously slipping clutch.
Well, I'm saying that's what I did on my 1990 Talon. The LC-1 wideband manual said to provide a 5 amp circuit to power their unit and the Bosch LSU4.2. I was already having doubts about the voltage to my GM MAF. So I added this circuit right from the battery, to an inline 40 amp fuse, to the 40 amp relay (all 10 gauge wire to this point), then split out to 14 gauge leads to power the LC-1 wideband, the GM MAF, and I guess that's it, because my MAP sensor and fuel pressure sensor both run on 5 volts. Maybe it's not necessary to do it this way, I just did it because I was powering things in the engine bay not in the cabin, and I figured this would be a good clean circuit. There was a vestigial 12v ignition-on wire right there where I needed it to power the relay coil, so it all came together pretty easy. I mounted the stuff where my cruise control used to be.
I just noticed the i88 has recently had a significant redesign.
Changes inside as well as different styling of the enclosure, changes to software and to the install manual.
New iVTS software is version 5.1.0
New wiring and installation manual has 30 more pages than the previous version.
Changes inside as well as different styling of the enclosure, changes to software and to the install manual.
New iVTS software is version 5.1.0
New wiring and installation manual has 30 more pages than the previous version.
Vi-PEC dealers are not allowed to ship outside their country.
You find all the dealers on Vi-PEC website:
http://www.vi-pec.com/dealer-list
You find all the dealers on Vi-PEC website:
http://www.vi-pec.com/dealer-list






