Hey guys,

Im curious if anyone in here can help me get my base map and triggers right so i can get my car some what running before i take it to the tuner.

Ive gone over it again and again and i seem to be missing something to get it to start. It turns over but no fire.

Im using the Haltech Elite 1500 with the plug and play adapter. Im trying to run it using the stock 02 sensor for now until haltech wideband and knock sensor also comes in.

If anyone has any knowledge they would like to share im listening. Im not tuner by any means but i figure most stuff out.

 

Ok best advice i can give is wait till the wb and knock sensor comes in. You can build a map, get everything setup, but until that comes in and gets on the car theres no point in it. Wideband is going to take control of the map anyways. Some other advice is until that is done and tuner gets you setup it is kinda pointless. Don't mean to sound harsh but learned that from my mistakes.

 

Post a screen shot of your Main setup page in Haltech. Trigger angle will be 76deg. Below are some base maps, but they need to be tuned specific to your setup.

 

Don’t mean to hijack, but while on the Haltech topic…

Is a Haltech more difficult to get up and running, and tune, than the stock ECU? I am pretty sure I want to convert to it, but I don’t want to be stumped by it. I’ve done my own tuning with the stock ECU and done all the patches to be running SD and flex fuel with large cams and big injectors with no significant problems. I also have HP Tuners experience on GM cars, which also went fine self-tuning for cams, injectors, etc. Is the Haltech inherently any more difficult? Having online communities or factory support is crucial though when issues come up. Should I pull the trigger? I mainly want it for the failsafes and closed loop WB tuning ability.

 

The stock ECU benefits tuners because it has the OEM maps and parameters that are used as the baseline, which are subsequently modified for your specific setup. However, with most aftermarket ECU's you have to start the tune from scratch so there is significantly more tuning and prep work involved because you have to create 100% of the base maps. In the OPs case, he can't even get the car to start. You could easily have 100+hrs tuning a car from scratch even if you have base maps for ignition and MIVEC.

To answer your question, other than the software and how it allows you to interface with the ECU there is not much difference in the basic tuning approach. However, with the aftermarket ECU you can expect to spend a whole lot of time generating the base maps and then a whole lot of time tuning all of the little things such as cold start, accel/decl enrichments, idle control, knock filters, knock table, O2 controls, MIVEC, VE Table, Ignition Table, injector setup, coil setup, etc. It is a whole lot of work, but for sure the car will run much better in my experience on the Haltech than it will with Tephra SD mod.

 

I had to change almost all of that in the stock ECU for my car to drive decently. It drove fine when I had HKS and Comp Cams with close to stock calibration, but once I went with Buschur cams and ported head, it required a lot of work to get it to have decent drivability, stable idle and reasonable road manners. Still, it could definitely be smoother around cruise RPMs and closed loop WBO2 would really be nice. It's funny when I drive my stock cars after doing a lot of driving in the Evo because I often think -- "Gee, the tune on this car is spot on!"

 

I agree, the stock ECU is quirky at best when you start getting crazy and switching to SD.

If you are willing to devote the time then you should not have any problems tuning an aftermarket ECU and it is worth the change. When I initially swapped to the Haltech I simply unplugged the OEM computer and plugged in the Haltech and let it sit on the floor as I tuned the car. When I was done tuning for the day I simply plugged back in the stock ECU and was able to continue to drive the car. When I got to the point where the Haltech was ready for daily driving I simply swapped over the ECU's permanently.

 

Ok so Im back with an update and some questions.

I got the car to start and run on the Haltech eventually. I had most of it correct i was just using different firmware versions between the ecu and laptop. I actually just called up Haltech and they ran through it all with me live through my own computer. It was pretty cool to say the least and great customer service. Haltech makes it very easy to understand what your tuning by giving you explanations of each parameter and the live tuning you always see a blue circular dot that pin points what the car is doing at that moment.

Also car ran so much crispier once on the Haltech compared to the stock ecu. Definitely wont be going back to stock ecu.

Right now car is currently down due to a bad tcase again. Bought a used one to get it moving so thats my own fault. So i decided to rip out the whole motor / trans / tcase and go through it all. Ill have my new Ohm racing wiring harness this coming week anyway so works out good.

What I need is a good Haltech tuner in the Northeast Area or anywhere for that matter once i get the car up and running again.

 

You can search Haltechs site for Haltech certified tuners per state. Last time I looked it was a little outdated but gives you an idea of who to go with. Other then that you could call around to your local tuning shop and ask them if they tune on haltech. I would search for someone who has or is Haltech certified or has had some sort of training through Haltech for the best results. That way they also can set up any features that may seem necessary for your setup.

 

you can try as base. this is a worked rom for evo8.

 

I got lucky and their Base map for a Evo8 worked to start my car and get it moving under its own power again.