Ok.. Now its my turn to ask a question.. I would like to convert my bleed system (stock boost solenoid and ABC) to use a restrictor solenoid to control boost..

I was told a GM solenoid with a resistor might be the ticket and can be controlled with the UTEC (and should still keep the ECU from farting even if the boost is fouled up when its not under boost control)

Any idea what the resistence is of the stock solenoid? The resistence of the GM solenoid, (and if its normally open and closes when energized or the other way around? I think It was told the solenoid is normally closed but opens when energized..)

This is the ULTIMATE boost control mod because the bleed method is giving me trouble maintaining reliable boost..

I saw a reference to this as a conversion done on the WRX..

Give me some direction, and I'll make something up and test it..

I just ordered from GMPartsDirect 3 of these solenoids, part # 1997152 which is the turbocharger boost solenoid for the GMC Syclone/Typhoon which seems to have 24ohms of resistence.. Its just a matter of matching the resistence to the factory solenoid to keep a CEL from triggering..

Thanks to this thread.. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/arch.../t-478896.html for the inspiration...

 

i swear malibu why are not working as a tuner LOL. i would be scared ****less to even try that lOL

 

You guys were too slow.. I figured out what should work..

Since the UTEC uses duty cycle, 0 being nothing, 100 (in open loop) being fully open, I just needed to find a solenoid that was normally closed and would open when energized.. The GM solenoid has 3 ports, one is normally closed, the other path is normally opened.. I should now be able to use the UTEC to control the solenoid in a restrictor configuration instead of a bleed configuration (which is basically a controlled vacuum leak) and is the reason I'm having difficulty with my BOV..

This mod likely will make your stock ECU very cranky and likely severely overboost, but it should work fine with the UTEC's duty cycle setup..

I'm under the impression I'm not doing anything unique or new.. just a first for this particular car..

BTW I ordered 3 solenoids and 3 pigtails, just in case I royally foul up the first time I try this..

 

Why dont you rig up something to a test meter and check to see what the stock BC puts out and then maybe find some guy with a cyclone or typhoon to test his/hers. Or maybe this info could be found in some sort of shop manual but i highly doubt that one. Or this is a long shot but contact the manufacture of both parts they might give out the info.

 

let me know how that works. I understand the principal of it

 

If the flash guys can figure out how to generate a duty cycle based boost control, this mod should work for them also.. This is already commonly done with the AEM EMS which is what gave me the idea..

 

you could always get an electronic boost controller, such as the blitz unit or greddy, etc.

 

For the $30 I ordered a few solenoids.. They can be used as electrically operated bypass valves so I can use them for another purpose if I can't use them for the boost control..

Incidentally the fuel pressure control solenoid likely could be adapted to do the same thing if you want to use a Mitsubishi part # if its normally closed when not energized..

Remember, closed means no pressure on the actuator, which means actuator boost levels.. open means all sorts of pressure to the actuator, which means overboost.. so use this mod with caution.. But with the right resistence, the ECU will not give you a CEL..

 

Your missing the point of this.. To retain boost control with the UTEC.. I considered using an MBC, or my Apexi boost controller, but I want the UTEC to control the boost.. but give the UTEC the type of control that you cannot get with using a bleed system (stock solenoid and ABC bleeder)

 

Now hopefully one of the TXS guys can jump in and give me some insight on the duty cycle of the UTEC (and factory ECU) is 0% duty off, or energized.. and vice versa..

 

Remember, all my mods are reversable.. so I wire everything with stock harness connectors so I can swap things back to stock if necessary..

 

BTW, you likely WILL have to do this sort of mod if you have an aftermarket turbocharger and want to control it with the UTEC..

I might put a MBC inline with it to keep it from severely overboosting, but time will tell..

Actually this seems to be a sound idea since you can then set your maximum boost (23psi or so in my case) and generally never go above that.

 

The duty cycle is always on time vs total time, that is just the standard. Therfore on a normally closed solenoid, 100% duty cycle would fully open the solenoid.
You may want to use the normally open option on the solenoid though, so that and increase in duty cycle directly relates to an increase in boost pressure. Is also is a good safety in case a wire came loose, that you would not be hitting 25+ psi.
The above is how the AEM EMS would handle this.

Also the above is only assuming the line runs from the turbo, to the boost solenoid, then to the wastegate in series. If they are plumbed in a T instead, the result would be opposite, where 100% duty would be minimum boost for a Normally open solenoid.

 

From reading the NASIOC thread it seems that the stock solenoid is in fact guilty of premature loss of boost and not the wastegate as everyone was saying earlier?
Keep the good stuff comming

 

just had my stock solenoid replaced today. TOTALLY OFF TOPIC LOl