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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

Boostin in T-minus 3 weeks

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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 06:45 PM
  #61  
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Yeah its used, i was hoping the seals werent shot, but i guess maybe....i still have a few more probs to figure out, i'm certainly running really rich but i just found i have a kink in the vaccum line to the bov since i used crappy vacc line to the bov. I'm VTA until i can put together the fitting to recirc it. Little problems i gotta figure out. If the seals on the turbo are shot, i'm just going to get it running right first and then either rebuild or pick up a rebuilt one from ebay.
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Old Jun 14, 2006 | 08:39 PM
  #62  
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Just ordered a t25 rebuild kit just incase. What else am i gonna do with a saturday or sunday if the Recirc and BOV vac probs dont fix it i'll take it out next weekend and do a rebuild on a saturday. Shouldn't be too hard. Plenty of pictorial how to's online specifically for the t25
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 12:27 PM
  #63  
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Well since no one is paying attention anymore anyway I guess i'll leave the thread on this note......Researched more, turns out the slightly kinked oil feed line that i have that i'm waiting for the replacement part for (will be here late today or early tomorrow) could be causing the excess oil blowby and smoking. The kink is building up pressure forcing excess oil into the turbo and through the seals. hopefully with the new banjo fitting tomrorow the blowby will go down considerably. reading up it seems that this was a common issue with DSM owners. I'm still going to rebuild the turbo eventually if this kinked line is indeed the problem, but at least it will give me a few more weeks to be lazy and not pull the turbo out
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 12:57 PM
  #64  
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Where did you get the rebuild kit from and for how much? If I decide to keep my T28, I'll probably do a rebuild on it as well.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 12:59 PM
  #65  
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http://www.saabperformanceparts.com/item235.htm

I called them and they have plenty in stock so i'm holding off until this weekend so i can see if the new banjo fitting does the trick. We shall see
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:08 PM
  #66  
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When you take it apart for rebuild you will see the way the oil feed and bearings work in relation to the rest of the turbo. Even the tiniest shaft play is going to give you blowby. Don't count on the kinked feed line fixing anything.
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 01:31 PM
  #67  
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very true man its not uncommon at all for the turbo seals to be shot thats why they recomend a rebuild every 10k miles
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #68  
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Yeah. I didn't expect the seals to be perfect. I've just seen turbo's on friends cars with equal if not worse shaft play and not nearly the same smoke. I've got a checklist of stuff for this weekend to see if it can cut down on some of the smoke...
1)new banjo for feed line
2)check oil return line and reseal fitting in oil pan
3)check oil levels. I have a feeling I might be a little overfilled too. Could be backing up the return port...
4) fix kinked bov vaccum hose
5) refill with thicker oil. I had in 5w30
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 05:02 PM
  #69  
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Well i just got home from work, took another peak at it. Replaced the BOV vac hose....heres what it looks so far

Car doesnt smoke at startup or idling just after startup while it warms up. the smoke seems to get progressively worse and worse the longer the car has been running. I started it up, let it idle for about 5-6 minutes, then took it for a 5 minute drive around the block, during which time it did not smoke practically at all. then progressively the smoke got a little more and a little more. I also started noticing a hesitation at lower rpms when the smoke started coming and a strange knocking sound coming from under the car, but that only happened at light throttle and i'm thinking its the exhaust i had fabricated banging on he bottom of the car. If tahts the case then once i get the smoke problem figured out i'll just bring it to them and have them fix it. Now heres what i noticed that could be causing the problem. The oil drain fitting is a 90 degree fitting. I had used teflon pipe sealant when i put it in, not teflon tape and i noticed the other day that the sealant had burned off and leaked, which of course is causing a minor oil leak, but not i noticed that instead of facing 10 or 11oclock position, the fitting is facing 4 or 5 o clock which would definately make the oil drain not gravity friendly. I'm thinking the reason its not smoking when i start the car and when it is first running is because the oil has all already drained out of the drain tube, and as the car gets run more and more it is accumulating in the tube, backing up into the turbo, thereby causing the oil blow by, which would explain why the smoke gets progressively more prominent as it is driven more and more. I'm going to put the car in the garage tomorrow night, drain the oil, and then reposition the fitting and JB weld the Sh* out of it, except instead of using a 90 degree fitting i'm just going to go for a straight fitting right out of the pan. We'll see what tomorrow and saturday brings, but at least the reasons behind everything are looking a little bit more apparent....
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Old Jun 15, 2006 | 07:57 PM
  #70  
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Don't JB Weld it. Thats stupid and that stuff sucks to get off. I've never had an issue with this sealer
http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm
Its expensive ($15-17 a bottle) and worth every penney. Take the fitting out and goop it up and screw it back it. Sets in a minute.

The theory on the oil backing up in the line is definitely possible. Where it enters the pan that needs to be the lowest point.
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