Normal?
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Normal?
So now i'm boosting, and everything seems to be running normal. I just have a few questions for you turbo guys to see if these little things are normal too
1) If i get on it in first gear, i hear a pop sound when i shift, only in first gear, sounds like a backfire, but not loud at all, just a muffled pop sound.
2) In the transition between vac and boost i get a little slouch feeling to the car.
3) if the car has been sitting for a while (say 8 hours or more) and i start it up, unless i let it warm up fully for about 5 minutes, i'll get a few puffs of oil smoke out of my exhaust. after i drive it about 100 feet it blows out and it doesnt happen again.
I figure 2 and 3 are because the turbo is used and probably needs a rebuild. SO those i werent too concerned about. Problem 1 only happens at the top of first gear in full boost. Could it be the 14:1 fmu too much and its bein a little too rich during the shift? i have my 12:1 fmu arriving tomorrow
1) If i get on it in first gear, i hear a pop sound when i shift, only in first gear, sounds like a backfire, but not loud at all, just a muffled pop sound.
2) In the transition between vac and boost i get a little slouch feeling to the car.
3) if the car has been sitting for a while (say 8 hours or more) and i start it up, unless i let it warm up fully for about 5 minutes, i'll get a few puffs of oil smoke out of my exhaust. after i drive it about 100 feet it blows out and it doesnt happen again.
I figure 2 and 3 are because the turbo is used and probably needs a rebuild. SO those i werent too concerned about. Problem 1 only happens at the top of first gear in full boost. Could it be the 14:1 fmu too much and its bein a little too rich during the shift? i have my 12:1 fmu arriving tomorrow
I have the RRM T-25 non-IC kit.
1) I don't get the pop inbetween shifts. Well, very rarely if ever. If I do get them, they're quiet. (from unburt fuel catching fire in exhaust)
2) I don't have the slouch feeling inbetween vac/boost.. I do have slight turbo lag where it spools up depending on which gear I'm accelerating from if thats what you mean. 1st - no lag, 2nd - very little lag, 3rd - some lag, 4th - laggy, 5-th - lol. Keep in mind that would be accelerating from 2000rpms upward. (not power shifting, but instead just from a steady roll trying to accelerate)
3) No smoke at all.. I even have no cats in my car.
Keep an eye on your oil levels though if you think the turbo needs a rebuild. Be careful and make sure nothing is going to bust.. thats bad. =(
1) I don't get the pop inbetween shifts. Well, very rarely if ever. If I do get them, they're quiet. (from unburt fuel catching fire in exhaust)
2) I don't have the slouch feeling inbetween vac/boost.. I do have slight turbo lag where it spools up depending on which gear I'm accelerating from if thats what you mean. 1st - no lag, 2nd - very little lag, 3rd - some lag, 4th - laggy, 5-th - lol. Keep in mind that would be accelerating from 2000rpms upward. (not power shifting, but instead just from a steady roll trying to accelerate)
3) No smoke at all.. I even have no cats in my car.
Keep an eye on your oil levels though if you think the turbo needs a rebuild. Be careful and make sure nothing is going to bust.. thats bad. =(
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Soooo i swapped out the 14:1 fmu to the 12:1 last night. No change in behavior. Still getting the pop in the exhaust from 1st gear flooring it. Pulled the plugs and they look in good shape. The insulator is totally clean, the firing tip is just a little discolored, but only just a little whiteness here and theere. base is a clean black, no major soot or anything. So i'm guessing i'm running right in the correct temp range and i'm not running too lean or too rich at boost. I still have the slight hesitation and it seems that if i push the gas down to get the car movin the narrowband will jump to deadlean for about a second when the car slouches and then jumps up to normal AFRs when the boost comes in. Any ideas?
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Ok well i guess i'll just post all of my issues in this post and see if anyone has any suggestions...
1) blowing oil smoke out of my exhaust at cold startup. Its a good amount of smoke, a nice puffly cloud. Does it until fully warmed for about 5 minutes, or until i pull out of the driveway and drive down the street. once at the end of the street it does not smoke again at all until its cold again.
2) After a little while of driving my idle gets higher and occasionally will cycle like old DSM's used to do when the idle screw o-ring was bad. idle will raise to anywhere between 1000 and 1400, and when it loops it goes up to 1400 then drops to 1000 then back up, then back down etc
3) I'm getting a backfire pop only when i shift at 5k or above in only 1st gear boost, every other gear is fine and there is no significant popping at any other time or driving condition
4) i'm definately burning through oil. My oil level dropped a little bit over the last 2 weeks, had to put in another half a quart today. Could it be because of the oil smoke at startup?
Turbo is used, i'm almost certain it needs a rebuild soon. As for my idle and backfire problem could it be vac issue? I have a 12:1 FMU. I have 2 tees in the vac line between the IM and the FPR and then one on the line to the BOV tee'd for the boost gauge. I tried splicing into other vacuum lines on the intake manifold but for whatever reason the only line that i get any kind of vaccuum signal on is the line from the IM to the FPR. I have attached a diagram of my setup
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/43b19...ojunEBPvpBLPDb
1) blowing oil smoke out of my exhaust at cold startup. Its a good amount of smoke, a nice puffly cloud. Does it until fully warmed for about 5 minutes, or until i pull out of the driveway and drive down the street. once at the end of the street it does not smoke again at all until its cold again.
2) After a little while of driving my idle gets higher and occasionally will cycle like old DSM's used to do when the idle screw o-ring was bad. idle will raise to anywhere between 1000 and 1400, and when it loops it goes up to 1400 then drops to 1000 then back up, then back down etc
3) I'm getting a backfire pop only when i shift at 5k or above in only 1st gear boost, every other gear is fine and there is no significant popping at any other time or driving condition
4) i'm definately burning through oil. My oil level dropped a little bit over the last 2 weeks, had to put in another half a quart today. Could it be because of the oil smoke at startup?
Turbo is used, i'm almost certain it needs a rebuild soon. As for my idle and backfire problem could it be vac issue? I have a 12:1 FMU. I have 2 tees in the vac line between the IM and the FPR and then one on the line to the BOV tee'd for the boost gauge. I tried splicing into other vacuum lines on the intake manifold but for whatever reason the only line that i get any kind of vaccuum signal on is the line from the IM to the FPR. I have attached a diagram of my setup
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/43b19...ojunEBPvpBLPDb
Originally Posted by Sicktght311
I tried splicing into other vacuum lines on the intake manifold but for whatever reason the only line that i get any kind of vaccuum signal on is the line from the IM to the FPR.
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The vaccum problems from other lines has happened since way before i even had the turbo installed. If i try to Tee the boost gauge in any other line besides the FPR line i get no signal. When Tee'd into the FPR line it reads fine. -22 at idle, 5.5psi at full boost (wastegate set at 6, .5 loss through IC). THe loopy idle has only seemed to develop over the last 2 or 3 days, did not happen before this
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You are smoking because, like you've mentioned, your turbo seals are bad and leaking oil into your exhaust turbine housing, so its burning all the leaking oil when you start up. I'd take out one of your pipes on the compressor side and see if the insides are coated with oil - which is bad. Sounds like you need to get that rebuilt. And you want it rebuilt before you get so much shaft play that the turbine or compressor wheel hits the side of the housing and kabooms. Not sure about the idle loop. Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a couple minutes, then letting it idle for a good 10 minutes to relearn and then drive it around?
well thats bull **** cause i think my turbo seals are going out and i just got my fu****ing turbo too WTF! and i dont have time or money to send my turbo to places to get a rebuild.
im taking my car in 1st in the morning and if the turbos seals are really going out somebody better better do something. now im getting pissed off as well. thing is i spent 3200 on a turbo 600 to put it in, and about 400 extra just on other problems since i put it in.
im taking my car in 1st in the morning and if the turbos seals are really going out somebody better better do something. now im getting pissed off as well. thing is i spent 3200 on a turbo 600 to put it in, and about 400 extra just on other problems since i put it in.
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Did you buy it brand new? THe guy before me seemed like he didnt know sh*t about turbos so i'm sure he beat on it to hell. I bought a rebuild kit. I'm gonna see how much shops want, if its too crazy, i'm just gonna do it myself. ANyone know any decent shops on Long Island/New york?
I know this shop out in Flushing, I'll get you the address as soon as I can. That's where I'm taking my kit so I can have the guy customly refabricate the manual pipes fit into my Auto. From what i hear, they do good work and alot of custom jobs.
I'll keep you posted.
I'll keep you posted.
Turbochargers.com will rebuild the turbo for $275 plus shipping. http://www.turbochargers.com/tech.htm
Here is a quote from the site:
"You may send us your turbo for a free estimate. Upon receipt of you turbo, we will inspect it and give a free quote for repair. If all your turbo requires is bearings, seals, balancing, and cleaing, your price $275.00, plus freight. If your turbo requires extra parts, we will quote those additional parts as an adder. If you approve the quote, we will repair and return using your charge card or COD shipping. If you do not approve our quote, we will ship the unit back for the freight cost only. "
Here is a quote from the site:
"You may send us your turbo for a free estimate. Upon receipt of you turbo, we will inspect it and give a free quote for repair. If all your turbo requires is bearings, seals, balancing, and cleaing, your price $275.00, plus freight. If your turbo requires extra parts, we will quote those additional parts as an adder. If you approve the quote, we will repair and return using your charge card or COD shipping. If you do not approve our quote, we will ship the unit back for the freight cost only. "
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Yeah definately get me that flushing address. As for turbochargers.com they are texas based, which means 2 to 3 days shipping time there, 2 to 3 back, 2 to 3 work time. So i'm lookin at over a week to get it rebuilt if i send it there, not to mention it might get there and then they'll tell me it needs even more work, which means more money wasted on shipping if i can find it cheaper local
thanks for the help though. I'm gonna take a run this weekend past some of the local speed and performance shops and see what they say. Theres a few out east here on LI worth a try...
thanks for the help though. I'm gonna take a run this weekend past some of the local speed and performance shops and see what they say. Theres a few out east here on LI worth a try...
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So the idle still continues to be weird after the car is warmed up and driven a few miles (fully hot). The Service Engine Soon light is on. And i looked over all the vaccum lines and there didnt appear to be any leaks. I'm going to reset the ecu tonight by takin the battery cable off and see what that does....so weird





