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Lancer Aftermarket Forced Induction Tech Discuss forced induction related specs and upgrades for custom aftermarket setups.

My 16g Install :)))))

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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 01:58 PM
  #151  
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From: Buffalo Grove, IL
Originally Posted by TheShortBus
isnt it possible to put in rods and pistons without pulling the motor?

eh either way i need new shocks more than anything right now, and i think it makes more since to run 10psi for now cuz my car really doesnt have that many miles on it, so ill just rebuild it and up the boost when i get more miles on the motor
Yup. Take off the head, drop the upper and lower oil pan and go to town.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #152  
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Originally Posted by senate6268
Yup. Take off the head, drop the upper and lower oil pan and go to town.
Hmmm. You beat me to that. I just went out and looked a few hours ago. Tempting...
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 09:30 PM
  #153  
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Originally Posted by senate6268
I was boosting 10-12psi on my last motor with 130,000 miles. It was still a strong running motor when I swapped it out. I simply wanted a motor with lower mileage.
wow, haha, id say it has a couple miles on it. It makes sence though, to swap it out.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 10:19 AM
  #154  
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so i just got home from bein out of town and put in the greedy rs bov. runns alot better actually, and even though its running dv on our cars it still sounds pretty sick
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 12:54 PM
  #155  
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From: Buffalo Grove, IL
Originally Posted by TheShortBus
so i just got home from bein out of town and put in the greedy rs bov. runns alot better actually, and even though its running dv on our cars it still sounds pretty sick
+1,000,000

It bugs me everytime someone with a Lancer wants to run a BOV just because they want the sound. I run a Forge re-circ valve and have had people ask me what kind of BOV I'm running and how much boost I'm running because they can clearly hear it while I'm driving. I ran my Forge as a BOV for a couple days and felt like I lost 20hp due to the abnormal AFRs on shifts.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 02:46 PM
  #156  
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ive herd people do a single spring mod with the rs, i took it apart just to take a look at it and its really easy as far as removing it, but i havent taken it out yet. so im guessing this will just make the spring rate even lower than the screw being all the way out. so what exactly will this help with?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #157  
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im gettin my tune friday so i hope the tune will fix this, but right now if i push i at all in first gear or once it get to higher rmps in other gears (sometimes) is bogs down. i know im running really rich too so that may have somthing to do with it
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 05:46 PM
  #158  
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From: Buffalo Grove, IL
Originally Posted by TheShortBus
ive herd people do a single spring mod with the rs, i took it apart just to take a look at it and its really easy as far as removing it, but i havent taken it out yet. so im guessing this will just make the spring rate even lower than the screw being all the way out. so what exactly will this help with?
This will help with allowing the BOV to open at a lower pressure since we don't run high boost on our Lancers. Having a BOV with a spring that's too tight will prevent it from opening on shifts and cause compressor surge.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 05:49 PM
  #159  
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From: Buffalo Grove, IL
Originally Posted by TheShortBus
im gettin my tune friday so i hope the tune will fix this, but right now if i push i at all in first gear or once it get to higher rmps in other gears (sometimes) is bogs down. i know im running really rich too so that may have somthing to do with it
What are your AFRs at when it bogs down?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 07:25 PM
  #160  
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ok yeah thats what i was thinking. well only have a narrow band so its not that accurate. but im running 440's, 225 pump and currently only at 6-7psi.

do you think i should turn the boost up to 10 (what i plan on runnin with the tune) and see if it leans it out a little?
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 08:46 PM
  #161  
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From: Buffalo Grove, IL
Originally Posted by TheShortBus
ok yeah thats what i was thinking. well only have a narrow band so its not that accurate. but im running 440's, 225 pump and currently only at 6-7psi.

do you think i should turn the boost up to 10 (what i plan on runnin with the tune) and see if it leans it out a little?
440cc injectors are overkill without a tune. And in no way would I recommend turning up the boost without a proper wideband O2 sensor or a tune. But, if your AFRs are a bit on the rich side, feel free to turn up the boost 1-2psi and see if any improvements are made.

I was able to run 4psi on my setup before tuning and had safe AFRs. Just goes to show how the stock ECU is tuned from the factory. With your setup having 440's, you're getting more than enough fuel (actually too much) right now.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:25 PM
  #162  
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yeah i figured since im goin through gas like no other...

and as far as turnin up the boost 2 psi or so, thats pretty much what im goin to be runin after the tune lol
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:40 PM
  #163  
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it wont feel right until you get a tune on it. timing has to be pulled. and of corse lean out.
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #164  
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yeah thats what i was hopeing
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Old Apr 23, 2008 | 09:58 PM
  #165  
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From: Buffalo Grove, IL
Originally Posted by TheShortBus
yeah i figured since im goin through gas like no other...

and as far as turnin up the boost 2 psi or so, thats pretty much what im goin to be runin after the tune lol
I would also recommend not going full throttle until you get a tune to prevent any damage to your engine. Running too much fuel is actually almost as dangerous as running not enough fuel. You can foul out your plugs, O2 sensors, or worse you can gas-wash your piston rings and scar your cylinders or snap a ring.

Adding a turbocharger to the engine will actually improve your MPG in closed loop because the ECU is adjusting via readings from all the sensors. Your engine doesn't have to work as hard with a turbocharger aiding airflow.
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