You need 50% more fuel for for the E85. So he would need much larger injectors when the time comes. Plus its not as wise to run it with a nbo2 sensor controlling the A/F

 

I would keep it at 9:1 atleast. The higher the compression the more power before and during boost. This will also spool the turbo up faster. The only drawback of running higher compression is you cant run as much boost on pump (but you wont need it) and you lose a tiny bit of safty on tuning. I run 9.25:1 on my stroked TT and there are some people upping the c/r from 9.5:1 to 10:1 but most stay with stock pistons and make 300-500whp. You shouldnt see any difference with those .3 points, but i would go with the higher compression for a steet car. The only time i would drop c/r is on a non street car that i plan on boost a very large amount constantly (any form of racing).

 

i say go with the 8.8:1 or maybe even 9:1
it will give you the added torque as cincy stated above, it will also give you a little extra before you boost + faster spoolin time.
i think cincy hit it on the top. hah

 

try thinking of it this way... a 1g eclipse had a mhi 14b turbo witch flows considerably more cfm at the same psi than the garrett t25 they put on the 2g eclipse, keeping that in mind the 1g had a 7.8:1 compression ratio while the 2g had 8.5:1 , yet both vehicles were rated to have the same 210hp and they ran the same amount of boost. not only that you need to also think the 1g had a better flowing head than the 2g . so overall theory lowering that compression ratio to much would not be a good idea... most dsm guys when they do a forge piston upgrade it usually is even higher than the 8.5:1 its mostly 8.8:1 or even 9.0:1 ...

 

Update -

Box from TRE arrived yesterday. I'll be dropping my transmission on Saturday so it can be sent out for rebuild.

Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons with top and side coatings and Crower rods have been ordered. Lead time is 3-6 weeks on both. This gives me ample time to have my RRM stage 2 head and intake manifold installed before they arrive.

Here's a picture of my Fidanza flywheel and one of my new 5-lug hubs from Mitsu.

Also, I won't be going back to the fab shop for about 2 weeks. I'm gonna wait until I get my trans back and get it installed. Stay tuned...

 

Fedex just brought me this...

Act Xtreme 6-puck clutch

 

Curious, but what are they doing to your transmission? Are they strengthening the case? Putting different gears in?

 

http://www.teamrip.com/TRE%20LANCER%...20SERVICE.html

 

hey senate, i see that 5 lug hub you have, what exactly are you doing with that ... what did they come from ... is it possible to do a 5 lug conversion? what brakes are you going to be running with those? what size is the lug pattern of those?

 

I'm doing a 5-lug conversion on all 4 corners. I got the hubs new from Mitsu. I'll be running the Wilwood big brake kit up front and normal discs in the back. They are 5x114.3 lug pattern.

 

UPDATE....

I've been purchasing and collecting alot of parts this past month. I'm still waiting on my rods from Crower. I purchased another trans with 26K miles and also another engine with 16K miles. This way I can send the trans and engine out to be built and my car won't be down during the process. My goal is to have everything finished before September 1st.

This weekend I'll be installing new suspension (if the struts arrive before Saturday) and converting over to 5-lug. Hopefully it goes smooth and I don't run into any issues.

 

installed the clutch yet? hows it feel, thinking about getting the xtss from act or the xtg6

 

Nope. Clutch and flywheel will be assembled onto the rebuilt engine with trans and everything will be dropped in at once.

 

alright no doubt, keep us posted

 

[QUOTE=senate6268;5682693]

Wiseco 9.0:1 pistons with top and side coatings and Crower rods have been ordered. Lead time is 3-6 weeks on both. This gives me ample time to have my RRM stage 2 head and intake manifold installed before they arrive.

QUOTE]

Please dont pay/take the time to install the new head or intake manifold only to have to remove them again in a couple weeks and cost more money by buying new fluids and gaskets.