Yes RPW is australian and the prices are in australian dollars.

 

Great, makes me feel a little better about their prices.

 

yes it's in AUD I thought it was USD too

 

Well, I just purchased Mirage 2.0's ported head and cam setup so hopefully my setup will be pretty sweet once it is done.

The plan is as follows:

For now 16g evo VIII turbo w/ forge wastegate ( have)
Custom 2.5" exhaust with wastegate dump ( parts are acquired)
Custom turbo manifold ( need steel donuts for fab)
Custom intake manifold ( in design)
Ported and polished head from Mirage 2.0 ( purchased)
272 cams (purchased)
adjustable cam gear (purchased)
Possible alky injection
Wiseco pistons (purchased)
Carrillo rods (purchased)
.5 cr decompression head gasket ( need to buy)
Solid motor mounts ( will probably fabricate)

Already have:
Most piping from current t25 setup
Forge unos MBC
Clutchmaster stg 3 clutch
Megan racing coilovers
460cc rx7 injectors
Walboro fuel pump
Tuned with Ecuflash


I think for now I will use this setup and probably max what the ecu can handle ( anyone know how far it can go?) and later on switch to most likely megasquirt, I am working on using it to run a custom reverse trike I built and it seems plenty capable.

Anyone have more suggestions about anything I might need?

I also have a question about boost control, I have the stock forge spring and I bought the 7-10 psi spring, should I use the 7-10 spring with the unos to control for ~ 15psi or use the evo spring which I believe is something like 14-16 and just use the unos to minimize spiking?

 

Nice. I don't think anyone that has a built engine is using ecuflash. I was just talking to senate about this yesterday.

You can use your MBC to raise the boost

 

Correct, on both. I guess I will find the limit on the stock ecu, I'm sure for the most power I will have to go standalone though.

About the boost control I was just wondering if there would be an advantage/disadvantage to using one spring over the other.

 

Your options for decomp gasket's are rpw or accolade sport parts... When you take out your rod's the bearings are pressed gently into the rod. It sometimes sticks to the crank but usually come off. Mines were all the same color. Just inspect them. Look for any deep scratches, if there are then get new ones. Mines were all shiny still so i just reused them. I got the k1 rod's and wiseco piston's also by the way. Just a heads up your gonna need to grind out part of your block
To get the number 4 rod to clear... I can give you some pictures i took of the area... Other than that install is straight foward.

 

Dont know why you people want to lower compression. Higher c/r makes the car much more reponsive/powerful off boost and more power with the same psi. With a good tune, there is no reason to run less than 9.5:1 on a street car. I rebuilt the engine on my TT and i went from 1781cc with 9.5:1 to 2008cc with 10.16:1 with wiseco pistons and scat rods.

 

Well a lower compression does allow you to run more boost but I agree that for a street car that isn't going to be fully pushed anyways, the extra low-end grunt that comes from a higher compression is worth the trade off.

 

im using the stock ecu with ecuflash and so far i got a nice tune pushing 10 psi with around 11.2 AFR. Can go further but im trying to figure out a fuel problem im having now. Hopefully i'll have it solved this weekend!

Oh and about the lower vs. higher compression... The decomp gaskets dont really drop the comp too much so the lowest youll prolly see is about 8.8 Not really much of a difference but I just like to be safe as my baby is the only means of transportation i got. I think of it as a little extra cushion just in case.

 

With a good fuel map and good egt, you have nothing to worry about. You shouldnt have any detenation.

 

Thanks for all the responses. I guess I will decide as I am rebuilding what I want to do in terms of the head gasket. I want to run over 15 psi which I think engine wise should be ok. I have been running 12 psi on the t25 for 2 years now without a hiccup.

sykou - How much grinding was needed. Pictures would be great.

 

Was the t25 from the RRM kit or custom?

 

It was a custom kit using the TSI manifold.

 

theres some pics. This is looking up at the car with the upper oil pan off. Facing towards the front of the car, in cylinder number 4. The crankshaft lobes are facing down so you can see where i had to grind. The Con rod bolts and also a portion of the rod itself will rub pretty badly. I do not know for sure how much needed to be grinded but I would guess about a 1/2 inch square about 1/8 in deep. Do this at your own risk tho. I do not know if there are any coolant passages behind it so I cannot say how thick the block wall is. You want to avoid sparks as much as possible as you will be working next to oil. Carb cleaner works great to clean out the shavings and you might wanna pick up an oil fogger like amsoils one so you dont get any flash rusting after your done.