Hey,
I have alot of body work done to my car and a custom sound system. My questions are about turbo:
1. If I go turbo should i change my pistons?
2. If I change my pistons will this weaker the connectiing rods?
3. How do i change my boost? I want it done digitally some its more accurate.
4. What comes with the RRM Inter cooled turbo kit? EVERYTHINGS?
5. Can i can the blow off value to a biltz? with out any problem?
6. I plan on installing the kit with my buddies that do all there own turbo world to there GSX and DSMs. We have all the tools and what not. Im just wondering how hard is it and what am i getting my slef into.
Whats the highest psi i can run with new internals? Can i run NOS?
sorry its alot of questions but i would just like to understand alittle more so im not lost.
THANKS
Nick

 

you know search would save some time but i give it a shot.
1. depends on how high the psi you are going to run.
2. no
3. boost controller, have manual and digital ones
4. go to their site.
5. dont know
6. apparently rrm's kit is fairly simple and comes with pretty good instructions.
and for the n2o, if you change out the pistons and rods im sure you could as long as you are adding enough fuel and i think you have to retard the timing a little bit.

 

Ok, I'll help answer #5 - You are better off sticking with a BOV that is a recirculated type. Those that are vented to the atmosphere will create stalling problems because the mas isn't getting the correct reading. If I remember correctly there is someone on here that has a turboxs BOV that is VTA and he has to pay attention when he comes to a stop or he will stall out. By the way I'm pretty sure the BLITZ BOV is also VTA.

 

everything you wanted to know was pretty much answered already, if you want a loud BOV stick with the greddy, you'll be satisfied

 

You can dump to atmosphere but you may get stalling or not. depends on the car. Some have trouble while others dont.... (at least int eh DSM world) I was not lucky enough to get one of those cars tho. Mine loved to stall when comming to a stop it was to much a pain in the ***. Playing a quick game of footsies with the brake and throttle to keep the RPMS up. TOO much trouble for a sound that actually hindered performance anyways. Mine was plenty loud when I ran an open element filter with a 1st gen BOV. Not as loud as a RFL granted but you could not miss it. The reason you car dies isnt becuase of the mas misreading and not comensating as TproJL stated it is because the air you are dumping has already been meter and the computer is now adding fuel for the metered air you just dumped cuasing you to run way rich. When I dumped (with top down) I could always see, and smell, a nice black cloud shooting out from behind me everytime I shifted. But the best thing for you to do here , as the others mentioned just dont dump. Less hassle and worry free.

 

the main reason that a BOV will reduce performance in some instances is that you run super rich. The MAF will tell the ECU the volume of air that has passed it and then procedes on its journey to the combustion chamber. When you vent it, the computer knows x amount of air is coming and is going to deliver y amount of fuel. Now x has been taken out of the equation but y is still delivered through the injectors. while this will only hinder performance during shifts, it's not detrimental. Some people claim that the excess fuel helps clean the crown of the piston off. I've seen no evidence to support that, but I've heard multiple people say it. I personally prefer to keep a decent fuel economy.

 

Actually I beg to diference with you just a little bit. To me it seemed to hinder quite abit. At around 65-70, in third and shifting to fourth my car actually bogged quite a bit. In turn of course slowing me down. I tested this a couple times on the freeway, each test had the same results. When I dumped back into the intake plump the symptom went right away. Now this again is with my car. Like I said in my earlier post some cars act diferently. For DSM's, more reacted the same as mine more often than not.

 

If it doesn't react like yours Mobius, it must be real lean and getting the fuel it needs when it vents.

 

Yeah but what is controlling it to run lean during a shift point I dont think you can program a AFC to do this. It never knows what rpm you are going to shift at. Ive never owned a AFC so I never had one to play with. So others who own one may have more to say.

 

if it were running lean, it would run lean across the RPM band. That's an oddity that I've never heard of before. It could be a timing issue, though. Really weird **** happens when things are timed funny. My 240 was bogging heavily and started to detonate because the timing was off.

When I start posting my sermons on diverter valves, I'm usually talking about the effect it will have on the general populace of cars. All cars react differently to certain things, so I try to generalize as much as possible when suggesting ideas.

 

with my BOV i can stall every time if i dont downshift to first... garunteed..

 

Ok how do i get the BOV PSSTTT.... With out all this hassle and worry about my car stalling at every light?

 

You are still gonna get the sound it just wont be as loud. Why dont you stop worrying about the sound so much (kinda ricey) and start working on what your REAL project is ......boosting your car? Everyone here seems to be telling you the same thing.....don't vent its not worth the trouble usually and it hinders performance. Like I said....I myself don't vent and believe me people outside your car can hear it. Mine is plumbed back in and tho we have different cars mine can be heard very well when my top is down. Going down a resi street at 15 and shifting does turn heads on the sidewalk. So I think we have already answered your question....we all just got a little side tracked.

 

for the people that want the sound of venting back to the atmosphere, go here and look at there Hybrid BOV
http://www.gofastbits.com/
it plumbacks and vents to the atmosphere so you get the best of both worlds. But having previously owned turbocharged cars just plumbing back, with an open element filter you will hear it.

 

you can control the stalling as well by leaving the car in gear. that way the inertia of the engine will keep things from stalling. It's when you blow off and pull the car out of gear that you will get the stalls most of the time. 90% of the time the stalling is exactly due to what a number of people indicated in here. The car will see a certain value pass the MAS and dumps fuel accordingly.. then when the BOV dumps air off the car essentially floods the engine. If it is left in gear until the last possible moment, no problems usually... otherwise.. stall.

also: BOV pretty much always result in rich running... (air is getting out... not getting in... )