Im putting together a turbo kit, and running non-intercooled to begin with. I saw somewhere to run a turbo kit with our MAF you have to re-route the BOV? Our plans were to weld it in by the intake manifold and be set from there...

 

air the bov vents must recirculate back into the (noncharged) section of the intake, But after the MAF so its not Calculated Again.
Otherwise u will have a richening issue that will result in the car stalling(normally)

If u are worried about losing that BOV sound.. u will have it, but wont be very loud, and wont be regaurdless till about 15psi. most peoples super loud exhaust systems end up muffling the bov sound out so u cant hear it when its recirculated..
Mine u can hear CLEAR as day, at 17psi..

 

Yup, that accounted for air has to be there.

 

your going to need a bov reagradless of what system you run except for a super charger which I heard a few lancers have ran off a super charger just not sure how exactly. But the turbo will produce enough positive pressure air to push out the BOV, if you weld that outlet to the intake pipe that air has no where to go therefore causing turbo surge. You can get a bov that can not be heard or can be heard pretty far away.

Im still concerned on you running a turbo without an intercooler especially since your 4 cylinder will make more heat than a larger engine due to the rpms. But whatever floats your boat go for it.

 

RRM used to sell a non intercooled kit a while ago but kept it to like 5 PSI. For the price though its not really worth it.

While we're on the topic why not intercool it?

 

Out of my whole setup...about 3k dollars, the intercooler and piping cost me a whopping 100 bucks....it's worth it, no reason not to.

As far as BOV's go, get stock evo 8 piping, and use an evo 9 stock bov, don't do something crazy like welding onto the intake.

Also, the nice way to do no recirculate, is to run speed density...parts cost about 150bucks, but it's the only way to get that big whoosh of air to be really loud.

 

if you run a blow through MAF, could you not put the MAF after the BOV...

 

technically. yes. but then u run into a whole other mess of issues to work through..

So.. No maf to be left on the cold induction side of the turbo and not in Charged sections

 

Could you enlighten me? I know some 4G69 guys have run a blow through MAF with success, but our MAF is different than the 4G94, the reason i ask is because after i turbo my Ralliart, i may look into doing the same thing to my ES.

 

Read harder, I never asked any of that. Except simply do I HAVE to re-route it. Also just be hush hush on that bigger motor ****. My 5.4 ran 5500 RPM's had a horrible fan that probably pushed 400 CFM of air, and you want to tell me my itty bitty 4 cylinder is going to be hot, please man. Ever read up on why CAI's are completely pointless on most 4 cylinders? Cause there not that hot under the hood.

BTW. never once had a problem over heating in my truck running track run after track run. low 14's on top of that too, stock with just a tune.

We will but the first month may not be intercooled, pipe fitting is gonna be the hard part with an auto. So once we accomplish the turbo setup we will mock up for intercooler pipes.
Im almost positive I wont have to run a pipe, I can just weld because the blow off valve im going to use doesnt need to be recirculated. I dont know.

 

Under my hood gets fkn hot lol

 

No, stevens right. Even when RRM was selling the kit they limited it to a low PSI because of heat issues. Not heat issues as to where the temp gauge is going to H! OMG! but heat build up in the cylinder. Basically the heat is going to cause a rod to bend or break. Thats why when tuned a 11.5 is strived for because the fuel is helping to keep temps down in there. 12.5 AFR is pushing it. Non intercooled is just boning with no rubber. You can...but need I go into that?

I mean if intercooled 10 psi just relatively safe what is a similar psi but hotter going to do? Thats what we're getting at. Maybe Im not wording it right someone correct me if I dont know what the F Im talking about.

Why not just post pone a month until you have the whole set up? Why waste time and material fabbing this or that when you can get it all in one stroke? There is practically no issue with running the pipes. Im auto. No biggie here.

And just because your BOV "doesnt need to be recirculated" means you engine is going to like it...

 

This was basically what I was saying as well. The pipes and intercooler that fit our car are very readily available, so why weld if you can just fit it all on. The only thing you have to move for intercooler piping is the coolant overflow tank...and it doesn't HAVE to move.

Intercoolers cool the compressed air down, because physics tells you any gas being compressed gets hotter.

I think we're all making suggestions based on what we did though....what is your plan bones? You said you were piecing a kit together, but what exactly are you using....turbo...tuning...exhaust...etc. Is it RRM's? Even the "ebay kits" use intercoolers I think.

 

Not as hot as a eight.
I dont need more then 5 psi for now.



So far I got a manifold, and a blow off valve so you can tell im early in this stage. Just want it right so when i have all the parts its a quick install.

 

So, that's a speedcorps mani then? You need a 16g from an evo8, stock 8 intercooler piping, evo8 downpipe, custom cat converter or test pipe, evo8 intake pipe, weld in or drill and tap oil return, 4an oil feed line, oil sandwich or the adapter to use the hex bolt, a maf adapter that goes to a cone filter, if you don't have, an evo 8 battery tray, an evo 8 coolant tank, a tactrix cable, a wideband gauge, a boost gauge, a forge WGA and a 5psi spring.

With that, exactly like I have, you can run 5psi...want more, get WRX 440cc injectors. more? act MB8-XTSS clutch and custom camshaft. more? limited slip diff/pistons/rods. MORE??? RRM's stage 1 head or custom work.

Point is....put the intercooler piping in, and don't weld the bov on.