7psi? really?? then to run say 10psi, your would probably only need stock ralliart injectors, which are 305cc...

your engine bay pic is from somewhat of a shallow angle, it's hard to see how the turbo and wastegate is hooked up...but just looking back at it now, I see your problem, I don't know how I missed it...you have the blow-off valve venting to atmosphere, with a pre-turbo MAF setup...at idle the intake manifold is in vacuum, which holds the BOV fully open, so the engine is drawing air through the BOV, rather than the intake...it's no wonder the car won't idle...you need to either switch to speed density tuning, or recirculate your BOV...disconnect the vacuum hose from the BOV, and I bet it would idle...

 

Would the bov still open with hose off?

 

it should be spring loaded closed, unless it's a dual diaphragm, then it might not, not sure exactly sure how they operate..depending on the design, boost pressure will either help push it closed, or blow it open in high boost applications...that why with high boost, it's desirable to have the vlave reversed, so that boost pressure will not blow it open...


edit: you need to recirculate it after the MAF, or if you want it to vent to atmosphere, it needs to vent before the maf, which would require the MAF to be in the charge pipe somewhere between the BOV and throttle body...some people run VTA setups with pre-turbo MAF's but it requires some reprogramming...it won't work in closed loop...especially without that front oxygen sensor

try starting it with your hand over the BOV outlet, it should be sucking in air...

 

His breather hose to the intake also has a filter on it. At idle that filter on the valve cover is sucking in unmetered air too.

 

that filter will just spray oil into the engine bay and clog up eventually...lol

the crank case should vent to an oil catch, or back into the intake behind the MAF.

 

She will be back together tonight. Will update Build pics/info after class.

Goal for tonight is idle and cruise on stock tune.

As for my bov. I will also respond to cranswick tonight. My bov is an HKS SQV 4. It vents to atmosphere, so you think with it tied into my fpr it's pulling it open sucking air in at idle? I didn't notice anything the first time when it would idle for 5-7 seconds. But will definitely check.

For my Wastegate. It's a used (new spring / cleaned internals) precision 38mm external wastegate with a 5 psi spring. This also is venting to atmosphere as welding it with my dp seemed crazy for an amature welder. You said this would mess with my o2? But at idle I'm not pushing 5 psi to open the wastegate so the loop is still closed at idle. I can understand it being open while wot or during pulls but I can tune my way out of that as I try to reach 14.7Afr

In conclusion you say that by me not recirculating anything I'm throwing off my 02 and maf. Hmmm mhmm. I will do the bov test later tn

 

The bov not recirculating will give you issues during cruising. When you come to a stop each time the car may die or want to die on you. The little filter on your valve cover should be going back into the intake like the stock intake. A oil catch can would be best. We'll keep checking up on you.

 

the BOV being open at idle has nothing to do with your FPR...your FPR doesn't control your BOV, it opens in vacuum, as in, when the throttle is closed, so that's idle, cruise, and when you let off the throttle...that's its only purpose...if it's not open at idle, it's either not hooked up, not hooked up correctly, or it's got a very stiff spring...the BOV you have looks like I may operate on differential pressure, so it may not be leaking at idle, but it's worth looking into...


not sure about your wastegate, but mine isn't exactly air tight, so you may get some bypass...it may or may not affect O2 readings, as the same exhaust gas will still be going through the turbine...

yes, if the BOV is open at all at idle, you'll have idle problems...it's not throwing your MAF off, the MAF is analog, it sends a voltage to the ECU based on how much air moves past it, which is dependent also on your MAF housing diameter...you use the "honey comb" type of MAF, so diameter isn't really an issue...


also, how is your FPR hooked up? both the FPR and BOV should be connected to a vacuum source on the intake manifold...just making sure, not trying to be a dick here...

 

Ok so she runs! Everything seemed good and I let her idle till the radiator fans came on. I'm leaking oil from my valve cover back side. Small fix. Everything went good first turn of key. Idk what I did different this time through but she fired right up.

My bov was not sucking in air.

My BOV and Boost gauge are both tied into my fpr. With 2 mm vacuum line. Is that a good source?

Also I was unable to get the turbo to spool just a little while Parked. I climbed slowly to 4.5 rpm and nothing. The boost gauge read zero. And BOV didn't open. It's a t3 .63 .53 .

Other than that she idled as if nothing changed. Sat at 1.5k rpm for 3-4 mins and then slowly dropped to 800.

Will post pictures later today

 

Sounds good. I think the 02-03 guys were using the fpr as a boost source. On my car you can't really get it to boost at idle and first gear so I assume it's a bit normal. Of course my turbo kicks in way later than yours though. Next you'll need to get on a evo rom.

 

And I will greatly need help on this part. I still have yet to get ecuflash to read my rom. Idk if my definitions folder is set up correctly or if i even have correct info in it.

I would like to use most basic evo map setup for amature tuning.

 

I would recommend the tephra rom. The knock light feature is a great feature and will help you from blowing the engine. Download the rom and add in all the lancer info from roadspikes big maps. If my Internet was working I'd help but it won't be on till Friday.

 

Looking back at the question about trying to build boost while sitting still I don't think it's possible with the stock rom. You'd need the tephra rom. Steven got his 2 step going. Not sure how to do it though. I suppose the "launch maps" would need to enabled. Honestly I don't think it's practical for us lancers. You're just going to burn thru tires and your stock clutch.

 

I can't even pull my main rom from the ECU. I get an error every time. It's an 03 Oz Lancer with a JDM VIN #. I think my definitions are messed up or I don't have correct ones.

My car is a Manual transmission, rebuilt 5k miles ago with a stage 2 Exedy clutch. Stock flywheel ( was resurfaced ).

So for my manual transmission I need roadspike big maps?

Thanks!

 

Engine bay after assembly #2<br/>Still have a couple things to move around.





Closer view of radiator. Half sized with 2 slim fans. Stock pipes but upgrading soon.





Dont have after build pic yet. She was dropped 2" all around with <br/>KYB struts<br/>MR rear racing springs<br/>Stock front springs cut ( Half a coil ). <br/><br/>Will post updated one soon.