...just remember, power doesn't kill subs...distortion kills subs. if you have your gain cranked to full tilt and/or you are sending a distorted signal to your subs...they will die.

 

JL 10 or 12" in our cars (hey, they're similar) anything bigger just becomes too damn boomy and rattles more than it basses... Basses, is that a word? Anyway, I have a JL 12w3v2 in my trunk and it has plenty of power... I have a friend that has a 12w6 in his WRX and it rocks hardcore... So it depends on how hard of a hit you want and how quickly you want your car to rattle apart. Personally I'd go for 2 10w3v2s or maybe 2 12s if you're not worried about saving trunk space and weight like I was.

 

I'd go with a sealed wedge box against the back seats to save room. Reverse mount a MTX 9500 (ever picked one of these up....damn), and run about a 1,000 watt mono amp minimum. Your all set. The setup described is mostly for "show", I love to see the inner-working at work. Not the best sounding system with the reverse mounting, but very easy on the eyes.

 

it depends on your $ flow. for cheap thump that doesn't sound cheap, get the P3's. i have one in the yellow '03 w/670 watts RMS running it in a sealed box. hits good
however, if you have grown folks pockets, get the W7. sq is very nice but make sure you get THE RIGHT BOX MADE!!!!!!!!!!!! another alternative to the W7 is the Alpine type X 12.

the compromise between the W7 & the P3 is the MTX 9500. let me know if you need any other help as i have tinkered with car audio for over 20 years now & yes i'm still under 35...

 

i have an amp that is near 2000watts and i 800x2rms i can run only p312 t1 t2 w6 w7 mtx 9500 and any other hardcore sub or i'll blow another set of sub

 

and i have installed head units tints and amps and sub about 2 months of work at a tune shop helps so i don't need help i just wonder what is the bes junk for a trunk sorry

 

at 800watts rms and 300rms subs that will blow in more was than one trust me i didn't even have the amp on half power when my voice coil blew

 

i said i have an amp that will distroy any subs that dont 800watts rms and that means i need the pricey ones to keep from blowing my sub apart and i have experience with systems i just wondered what is better for any car

 

Ok I gotta ask what amp u are running?

 

a kole 1920

 

https://www.evolutionm.net/registry/viewride.php?vid=4212[/URL] if you want to see go look at the photo in my profile

 

Best quote ever I ever heard in a stereo shop
" the 13w7 is the best sounding/loudest $200 sub I ever heard"
me ---"but isnt like $900 ?"
"EXACTLY !"

 

i don't know enough about kole audio to form an opinion, but i did just find the kole 1920 online at a couple of places between $140 and $170. not trying to bash, but do you really think that for under $200 it is really living up to its 2000 watt rating? again...distortion kills long before over powering will. if properly set up...crossover point, gain, etc...you can run an amp with a higher ouput rating than the sub's power handling rating as long as you aren't distorting the hell out of it. and remember, distortion originates from the hu. if you don't have a clean signal from your hu and you are even close to maxing out your volume, you are introducing distortion.

 

I have seen one of these kole amps, it was driving a 2/ 10w0 box and was barely moving the subwoofers but was definately introducing distortion to them as they sounded terrible. I would probably buy roadgear before kole. IMO

 

you say you have experience with systems and you had the amp at half power? there is no such thing as half power. an 800 watt amp will put out 800 watts. there's no "power adjustment". sure, there's the gain... but, that's just input sensitivity adjustment to accomodate the incoming RCA signal.

also... JL has made more than a w0, w1, w3, w6, and w7. basically pick any number between those and they've made a sub with that number. just check out www.jlaudio.com. under products, they list discountinued subs. not being an ***, just pointing out the fact.