My Kicker S8L7 hasn't been kicking much for a while now. It's been sitting in my room collecting dust instead of busting my eardrums It's the dual 4 ohm model so it's got 4 terminals obviously. Every terminal has an entry point under the cone(or whatever you call it). 1 of the wire cut at the base of the cone I can still see the wire going in but it's flat with the cone assy and well the other part of the wire is just hanging there on the terminal.

The best thing to do would most likely be changing the whole wire. But that involves taking the whole sub appart and I have no idea how to do it and how well that would turn out

Is there any other option, other than take it to a shop, that I could do to make the sub bump again?

 

imagedynamicsusa.com - Trash can for the kicker

 

I thaught about that too... but my thin wallet made me change my mind

 

I understand me too but a brand new ID 8 at local shops is ~ 65. Thats a smoking deal especially since it does everything extremely well. And get loud. On par with the 300 JL 8w7

 

Yeah... but once you've crossed the border, don't know why but it seems like those subs double and triple in price Yep... Canadian dollar and Canadian prices are simply ****. I've been on the lookout for an Image Dynamics sub for a while, but a few days ago I bought a used RRM piggy... so new sub won't be an option for me for a while. That's why I'm trying to figure out a way to fix the Kicker. I got to get the Jensen sub out of my trunk. That thing is driving me nuts.

 

shoulda got cityadvantage.... i need to work less.

 

I just need a solution

 

ill talk to the guys at work today.

 

You work in audio?

 

ccity roadshop.

 

No warranty I assume? If theres enough lead left on the piece near the cone, why not try soldering it back together?

 

Nah... no warranty. The beauty of Ebay Specials

That's the only solution I could think of so far. But I'm facing 2 problems.

1. The lead is flush with the cone which makes the soldering job touchy as hell

2. The cone excursion requires a very strong solder.

I'm afraid the only way to make it work again is to take the whole thing appart Anyone has the diagram or a "shop manual" Kicker Out-Sources their repairs and won't forward me the needed diagrams. Hell... they won't even tell me where they Out-Source the repairs

 

typical problem with these subs. i sent mine in for warranty work and they ended up trashing it and sending me a brand new one. i dont think it's repairable. and if you do get the lead reconnected, it'll happen to it again. just a matter of time.

 

Soooooooooooo not what I wanted to read