I'm basically set already on Alpine. I've had pioneer in the past and it was OK, but i've always been more into Alpine's. I'm looking for advice on a complete system to get; Alpine HU, speakers, subs, amps, and cap. If possible, i'd like to have it all out of the same line, as with the type R's and S's so it'd be that much cleaner. I'm all stock right now so i'd need HU, front and rear speakers to fit stock dimensions, an amp, cap, and 2 12" subs. Nothing to obnoxiously loud, but i want it to have some real bump and shake if the need arises
any advice on where to start is appreciated. Thanks!

 

I have an Alpine CDA-9830 for sell, it's only 6 months old, comes with remote, original box and paperwork, Mitsu wire harness adapter already soldered in, and the metra adapter in case you have Mitsu's sun and sound package. PM me if you want details.

 

FYI, I don't think Alpine have a cap, so anything will work... But I'd go with the 12" Type X sub in a sealed box. It'll be plenty for yah. Everything else is basic, just go with a component setup up front though.

 

I don't think the all one brand system is the way to go. If Mitsubishi made a PC would you log onto the internet on the best backed computer? Most amplifiers and speakers are outsourced and they put little R&D into them. Alpine is an electronics company that looks to hit a price point with a product above all else. Just like all the others. By an Alpine head unit if that is your preference, and go listen to speakers, preferrably in a car, to chose the best option for you. Next, figure out how much trunk space you are willing to give up and choose your sub based on this volume. Then get amplifiers that will properly power the speakers you chose. Do not look at Peak power, RMS, THD or any other meaningless spec. expect to pay $.75 a watt at minimum. If an amp says 1200 watts and costs $199 it's a pretty safe bet you won't see 1200 watts. You will not need a cap if you wire and install quality equipment properly. This is a waste of your budget that could be used for better equipment. an 80A charging system should handle a 1000 watt stereo system fine unless the amps used are inefficient pieces of **** or the install is shoddy.

Bill

 

^got it. lots of knowledge there i see. I'll do some more research into it...
comments are welcome!

 

I have had Alpine head unit for years, but have since switched to Eclipse. Gotta go with the 8 volt out. Alpine say 4 volt, but if you look at the specs it's only 2.2. What that means is that you can run less gain on the amp while having it sound louder and cleaner. 2-12s in a lancer will be loud! I've got one Eclipse titanium 10" in a ported box, and it's great. You could probably be better off buying only 1-12" sub have a ported box made, and it'll sound awesome. Running a Kicker 12SL7 or SL5 solobaric 12" in a ported box will kill two twelves in a sealed box, with half the power. I am actually redoing my system to a solobaric SL7 in a ported box. The Eclipse sub is great, and does a good job putting out low bass, but jumping up to the square kicker and going 12" will be a huge improvement.

 

^i think i follow ya. I'll have to look into it more, but i wasn't aware it could be setup so that 1 12 would be louder than 2.

 

Can you explain the cap paint in more detail because I dont fully understand...

 

ive got 2 12" subwoofers. 750 max watts tho, a piece. still new had since july of last year. still in factory wrapping. never opened. etc. i can sell them for fairly cheap. especially since they retail for 155 a piece at best buy. theyre type E subs tho. the model number is: SWE1242. hope that helps.

 

btw, check out onlinecarstereo.com any order over 100 entitles u free shipping.

 

OK, first what is a cap? A storage device. It can't make, increase or amplify power. It only stores what it is given. There already is a big cap in every car, the battery. It stores power so you can start your car. After your car is started the alternator generates power. The alternator is switched on an off as needed based on power requirements at that time.

The advantage of an additional "stiffening" cap is that is can discharge faster than your other cap (battery). Of course it will have to recharge too. The discharge time is roughly 1/32nd of a second. Then it recharges in 1/32nd of a second and repeats as necessary. So when lights dim without a cap because current was low and voltage was pulled down, a cap will have the same low voltage condition but provide the lower voltage in faster intervals. It's basically chopping the dimming into many small dimming events that the light filament may not even react fast enough to notice. It does not solve the problem of excessive current or low voltage, it sort of hides it.

Now when you buy an amplifier you are already purchasing a cap. The power supply in all amplifiers have capacitors to deal with unstable voltage sources (car electrical systems). The amount and quality is the question. The amp that has a chrome heatsink, says 1200 watts on it and has a pretty blue glow for $199 more than likely skimped on all electrical components to make a pretty package that sits in your trunk and sounds like garbage. Why do you really buy an amplifier? I have seen as much as 1/2 Farad of capacitance in amplifiers rated 300 watts. These are the amps that can produce well more than advertised instead of making the advertised power level when struck by lightning while sitting on an iceberg.

So, instead of buying a cap, put that money into a better amplifier that was properly designed with the correct amount of capacitance, enough rail voltage, and a strong power supply. Then wire your car properly.

or

Fix the real problem with your system instead of sweeping it under the carpet. Caps don't make power, at best they hide the lack of it from you.

Interestingly, the guy that trademarked the term "Stiffening Capacitor" and pioneered their use tested an Honda Civic with an 80A alternator. he put 1000 watts of amplifiers in the car and showed that there was no readon to put a cap into the system at that power level. For the most part they are voodoo designed to make the retailer a little more money with an add on.

 

^got it. I think I'll be spending that extra $ on a better amp now.

 

I have a amp/speaker/box for sale check the link in my sig .

 

i have alpine type r 12'

love it