most amps don't allow for 0 gauge inputs and putting a stinger 0 gauge to 4 gauge reducer on the end just to fit it in the amp looks ridiculous and is a waste IMO. run the 0 gauge to the trunk and the use a distribution block to split the 0 into 4 gauge. the run will be short with the 4 gauge so there is no worries with power handling. you can get some fancy light-up distribution blocks and some that will work your pos. and neg. cable to keep the whole thing nice and clean. 4 gauge looks a lot cleaner into/out of an amp than monstrous 0 gauge. just my opinion but he can do what he wants

wiring 4 ohm in parallel will get you 2 ohm per sub... unless you parallel both subs that are paralleled you wont get the amp to see a 1 ohm load unless you use 2 ohm dvc from the get go

 

lol then why, why my friend, do I have two 4-ohm DVC subs wired down to 1 ohm if it is not possible? i have all my (+)'s wired together and all my (-)'s wired together.

also, i have a reducer for my ground currently (dont have the money for 15 feet of 0 gauge atm) and its fine. it allows me to use 0 gauge when i cant fit it. i will also be getting a reducer for my +12v when i get more money for 0 gauge. it looks fine if you push it all the way in the terminal block, and push the wire itself all the way in. i had to grind mine down just a bit to get it to go all the way fully in, but it looks fine, and holds tight!

btw, a distribution block is a lot more expensive than a reducer, and is a waste of space, and a waste of money if you are not using 2 amps in the same spot. once i get a second amp for speakers, i will then get 2 distribution blocks - one ground and one +12v - 0 gauge in to two 4 gauge out, each. this is the purpose of a distribution block!!!

for everyones info: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161

 

your gonna cook your voice coils if you start pushin large amounts of juice through that... as far as the wiring, w/e works for you is what you should go with. find out how much amps your pullin, consult a chart from stinger or tsunami to find the recommend gauge ( 4 gauge will usually do the trick 90% of the time). upgrade your big three with the same gauge you run to the trunk

 

haha so you must assume im a n00b at car audio. well, i have to say youre wrong. i know what im doing, and i wont cook my coils because of running 0 gauge. you can run 0 gauge with a walmart 100 watt sub if u want, it wont cook its voice ciols, an AMPLIFIER is what cooks voice coils. the wire just carries the amperage needed for the amp. my amp alone pulls 140 amps, so I think 0 gauge is needed also, i already said i upgraded my big 3 with 0 gauge.....

 

the last post i made was meant for the guy who started this thread

 

ohhh ok sorry then haha and that amp is pyle, i bet it pushes nowhere near 1800 watts at 2 ohms....like i said before, Pyle is crap.

 

Ok. This is my new idea.

This amp (http://blujay.com/item/HIFONICS-Brut...010102-1977255) with two of these subs (http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=16396) running a 1 Ohm load. (http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...2&woofer_imp=4)

I would use that first diagram. Will I have any problems with this setup?

 

Perfect! but those subs would total 1200 watts RMS, so I think the Brutus 1600 watt amp will be perfect. you will more than likely overpower them with the 2000 watt one, and real soon burn out the subs!

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...BXi+1606D.html

That is the amp, and also the exact same one I have!

Also, if you follow that first diagram, you will be perfect. I suggest when you build your box (if one single box to house both, instead of 2 completely separate boxes) dont wire them to each other inside the box...get heavy duty speaker terminals and wire the subs to those individually, then wire those terminals together at the amp. example of outside wiring: http://img413.imageshack.us/img413/3254/16065995ve5.png

Good Luck!!!

 

Ahh gotta love saving some money

As for the box, I'm going to give out a fiberglass enclosure a try, so the way that I am doing it will be 2 seperate boxes most likely. (At least in the picture in my mind lol). Once everything starts progressing more, I will post in here Starting on the amp rack and new floor for the trunk today.

 

One other question...With that 1600 amp, will 4 guage be fine? Or should I switch to 1/0 gauge wire from the battery?

 

so two separate boxes will be fine, and you can still follow that diagram I posted! just make sure that each box has the right amount of air space, and if you plan to go ported, I would definitely try to use MDF for the box and carpet it or even paint it....you can even make the boxes the odd shape to fit in each side of the trunk like the stock rockford sub, but bigger!

Well I am slowly upgrading all my 4 gauge to 0 gauge, I mean it definitely cant hurt, but the main reason I am doing it is because I plan on adding a second amplifier in the future, so I will have all the 0 already run in the car. Definitely upgrade your big 3 though, with at least 4 gauge. I say for now, with a single amp, 4 gauge will be fine, but I do suggest buying GOOD 4 gauge, like Stinger or Tsunami.

 

I might just upgrade to 0 gauge anyways since it wont hurt. Just gotta stop down at a audio shop and find some 0 gauge to run to my trunk and for my big 3. As for the box, do you mean make it entirely out of MDF? Because I had an all MDF enclosure before, and I just cant stand how it looks, which is why I was gonna go with the fiberglass. Plus the fiberwood is just so heavy, my rear end looked like it was dropped before

 

Also yitz, I was wondering if you ever heard of/heard about eDead v1SE. I think I'm going to use that for sound deadening because I have heard some pretty good stuff about it, and it is much cheaper than Dynamat. the v1SE is like 1.60 per ft^2, which adds up to about 60$ for 40 ft^2 where to get that much Dynamat its over closer to 150$. It is nice too because it is pretty thick still (60mil)

Heres the link for anyone else thinking about sound deadening:

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_...products_id=52

 

And one other thing haha. I found some 1/0 gauge wire that is just from/for a battery power wire. It is standatrd 1/0 gauge, not a name brand like Tsunami or anything like that, but I found like 40 feet of it and was wondering if I could just use that for my power wire and big 3 upgrade. If this will work, it would be nice bewcause it would be free, but if not I'll have to dish out the money for Tsunami or something. Lemme know what you think. It is high strand copper wire, but it isn't braided.

 

if you do entirely fiberglass, you cannot port the box unless you incorporate MDF into the fiberglass. honestly, i wouldnt know how hard that would be, because i dont do fiberglass, but it would be harder than either building all MDF or all fiberglass. just a thought man, but do what you want, those subs will still be loud, just louder in a ported box. Also, my box takes up about 85% of my trunk space, the only free space is little bits on the side of the box. check out my cardomain to see pics!

yes Ive heard of eDead and yes it is really good stuff, but have you heard of FatMat? 100 sq ft for 130 bucks shipped from ebay . thats what i have

the reason tsunami and stinger, etc. are so expensive is because of the extremely high strand count. this makes the wire very flexible and actually more conductive than less stranded wire. also, less stranded wire means a lot less flexible. I have felt marine 0 gauge wire before, and it does not flex at all! if you can, get the money for a big brand!!!! trust me, you will not regret it!