I think I'm just going to use this 1/0 gauge I found, because it has a pretty high strand count and is pretty flexable(enough to do the job we are talking about).

Should I also upgrade my ground to the amp with 1/0 gauge too?

Also what size fuse should I upgrade to?



PS: I started working on it yesterday and I got the new wood floor carpeted and I got the amp rack done and carpeted last night. Now I just gotta wait for the money from my old subs and amp I sold so I can buy the subs and I get paid next friday so I'll buy the amp then. Ill try n snag some pics...

 

Can you take some pics of your big 3 upgrade for me? I shoudln't have a problem, but for referance, I'd like to see

 

one IMPORTANT rule of thumb: NEVER have your ground wire smaller than your power cable! if you go 0 gauge power, you MUST go 0 gauge ground!

for the fuse, total up the number of amps on the fuses of the amplifier and then use that total for your main in-line fuse. my amp is 140 amps, but i have a 200 amp fuse, which i should change to 150! lol (i was dumb when i bought that 200 fuse...) also, I HIGHLY suggest using an ANL type fufe and holder. they are the best fuses to hold and will 99% of the time never fail! whatever you do, stay away from the cylindrical fuses (forget what they are) because most of the time they will randomly stop conducting electricity, ive seen it happen many times.

pics in a few minutes, let me go to my car haha....

 

pics....ALL 0 GAUGE TSUNAMI WIRE AND TSUNAMI RING TERMINALS USED!!!!!!

alt to chassis ground:


batt to chassis ground:


****i DO suggest getting a new battery terminal for this connection! makes it so much easier! you will need negative terminal, with at least one 0 gauge out and one 4 gauge out (for stock batt to engine ground) I did not upgrade the batt to engine because a friend of mine, somewhat of a mechanic told me that that was just for the starter, and would have no affect on the power output/consumption for car audio.****

alt to batt positive:


****i highly suggest you take it to someone that really knows what theyre doing! I went into this having no idea what to expect. it is VERY HARD to explain in words and pictures, someone really has to be there showing you everything. it was easier than I thought, it just took a lot of thinking and planning believe it or not. it involved crawling under the car to loosen a bolt, using a "fishing" wire to feed the wire through the manifold, and a lot of strength!****

alt to batt positive connection:


**** the ring terminal HAS to be bent a certain, precise way for all the stock terminals and sub terminal to fit right! it took me about 3 tries of putting it on and off of getting it right. here is a quick little example of how it should look:
****

connections on batt positive post:


I hope this helps!!!

 

140 amps? If you have the BXi1606D like you are showing me, it is 160 not 140 because the pic's show two(2) 80 amp fuses in the amplifier which total 160 amps.

 

correct, but mine has two 70 amp fuses. the models are a little differnet but same amp, specs, etc.

 

Only question now that I can think of is how do I know which bolt on the alt to use? I have no problem with anything else. I have done a few things like this before and have no problem doing hard to reach stuff either(I had a ATV I raced MX with and I built everything on it and ripped it down to the frame multiple times by myself, so needless to say I'm not a COMPLETE noob )

 

I did think of another question .

With the diagram I am going to use, how would I wire the subs with two different enclosures? Or would I be better off with one enclosure do you think?

(http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...2&woofer_imp=4)

 

it would be better if you put only 1 enclosure. i have 2 L7 plugged in a quantum audio( 4000w peak) and ive put some gauge 2 cables with 2 capacitor 2 farad each and it works awsome. hifisoundconnection.com have great prices on L7 I paid mine 127$ shipped in canada and got the amp on ebay for 260( shipped in canada) the amp have 5 ajustments plus it comes with the remote, so for the price it is very nice.

 

Sweet! I was going to go with the L7's but I think I am going to go with teh Brutus subs I linked to on the second page of this thread. They are pretty copmparable to the L7's. 600 watt RMS each and they are squares. I like them because they will match the amp and my car so I think I'm going to go with those and the BXi1606D amp. I just got done upgrading to 1/0 gauge power, ground, and big 3 today and now I just have to order the subs/amp when I get paid on friday and start the fiberglassing!!!

 

the bolt for the positive you mean? there is a black cover over the positive on the alternator. if you are standing at the front of the car looking down into the engine bay, it is on the right of the alternator, about half way down. if you stand at a weird angle, you can get your arm in there and feel it and pop the cover off. just if you needed to know, it gives 16 volts when the car is running, but thats fine. just thought id let you know. the only way i found to get the bolt off was from underneath the car with a ratchet and an 8-10" extension (i forget what size mine is that I used) and i think a 12mm socket.


if you do two separate boxes, just do it like i said in a previous post with a little diagram. on each sub, wire up the positives and the negatives to a B-cup (speaker terminals), and from each B-cup (2 boxes) go to the amp and wire them together at the amplifer, with both positives in one terminal, and both negatives in one terminal. although, hifonics is one of those amps that has actually 2 outputs on there mono amps. in this case, you can just wire one sub to one output, and the other sub to the other output. there are instructions in the booklet in case you are a bit confused, but you can figure it out. so in the end, there will be no two wires in one terminal!

and sorry for the late responses, i have been busy! also, sorry to doubt your skills, i didnt know how good you were with tearing things apart haha its just that people that know nothing about anything try to do stuff and completely mess up their car! good luck man!!!!!!! and post pics when finished!

 

MX41, i just realized you dont have an 08 Lancer!!! i dont think my pics of the big 3 will help much then! sorry man, i should have paid attention to your info! so in reference to the right bolt on the alternator, just turn your car on, so its running, and look for some wires that are covered at the connection to the alternator. take a multimeter and touch positive to that bolt, and negative to some ground, and see if you get at least 14.4v (12v). if so, then that bolt is your positive.

 

I just got done with it and it wasn't hard to find the bolt on the alt Everything is ran, only 2 problems lol.

1: Need a grinder to shave the end that connects to the positive of the battery since it wont fit.

2: NEED THE AMP AND SUBS TO TEST IT WOO

Haha anyways I'll try and get pics tomorrow when it is light out. Also do I have to run an alt to chassis ground? It technically isn't part of the "Big 3" but I saw it as your first pic. I also got around to making the new 1/0 gauge power wire and ran it under the carpet and sills and put the reducer on the end and it is ready for the amp to come!


Now once the subs come, look out fiberglass, here I come! (Pics will be in here )

 

well i know it isnt part of it, but it seems logical to upgrade that since you are upgrading the positive too. at least more logical than battery to engine ground. the alternator is putting out 120 amps, but to do so it needs to be grounded solidly. all that wire can do is help and make it look better and what do you mean grind the terminal?

 

I got the terminals from my work (thank you tax money ) and the one I used was too big to fit under either of the spots I can mount it on the positive battery side. So I have to slim it down a little to make it fit which won't be hard, minus the fact that I dont have a grinder at my house lol.