Camera is dead lol. Haven't been home enough to remember to charge it between work, the g/f, and a lot of fishing lately haha.

But I also decided I'm not going to go w/ fiberglass because hopefully sometime soon I'll be selling my car for something a little faster

I'm making a box instead for now just to have my bass. Not shooting for looks as much anymore.

 

Ok I wanna get people opinions.

I'm debating on whether or not to make the fiberglass.

The only reason I don't want to is because the way I was going to fiberglass was going to be a sealed enclosure. Nothing wrong with that except i like LOUD bass and that makes me want to just make a vented box.

I'm not going to go through the hassle of making a ported fiberglass enclosure, so people, give me some opinions!!!

 

since you like LOUD bass, PORTED MDF FTW!!!! lol

 

If you want sound quality go for seald box. That will give you a more responsive bass. Good for pop or techno music, something like that with rapid sharp bass. But if you want create low Frequency, like rap, hip hop, r&b or something like that use ported desing. I'll take some pictures of my box tomorrow. It's fiberglass. Was origanally made for a honda civic, but the guy never picked it up. It's made specially for the subs I got and It fits my car(barely) so I used it. My bud does this so I have no clue how to do none of this stuff. I just read alot. lol

 

Ok well I'm going to go with a box then I think.:P

I'm going to build it myself but I can figure out port size? Like in the specs in the manual that came with it, it says Depth x Length (inches) of port for this is 3.5 x 10. How the hell does that help me? lol

 

Also I debated about just buying this enclosure.

http://store.tunerstyling.com/du12sqslsuen.html

Very close to what I need. Sub calls for 1.75 ft^3 but I'm guessing that Isn't including the driver. :/ Grr

 

that means the port needs to be 3.5" wide, and 10" deep (going into the box). the manual should also say how much volume the port needs to be, so since you have 2 sides, and the volume, V=LxWxH. My subs call for 3" x 13.25” port, 14.5” long (into the box)

also, just my opinion, you should build the box like i did it, just fitting between the sides of the trunk in the back. looks good IMO!


i definitely dont suggest buying a pre-made enclosure, especially that one. first of all, its only 5/8" thick...for what you are running, even systems with a lotlower power, you need 3/4". second, the ports are the wrong size. third, the chambers are nto big enough. if you want LOUD bass, like you said, make the box the recommended MAXIMUM size...the rec. max. cu. ft. is always meant for deep SPL, a.k.a. LOUD bass!

 

Listen to Yitzac1990 he knows best. But here's my system for motovation to go with fiberglass. The box is carpeted. Say bey bey to spare tire. Enjoy

Atomic 2200.1 Amp. Atomic.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...dor/img084.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...dor/img085.jpg

Manhattan MA12D woofers.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...dor/img086.jpg
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...dor/img090.jpg

Stinger Power2 SP1700 battery.
http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/k...dor/img088.jpg

 

Wow that looks sick. I like that enclosure. Too much work for me though right now

Yitz, it doesn't give me a length. Those are the only 2 measurements they give me. Im wondering if the D was meant to be Diameter for a circular port. Damn these companies making it so difficult haha.

But anyways back to my box. Bought the MDF and all other supplies today. If the D is supposed to be diameter for the subs, I calculated everything for the port to be changed into a square port and drew up the sketches today. for the box. This box will be a monster! 1.75 ft^s for each sub (not including vents and drivers), so It comes to a box that if it was empty, would be around 5 ft^3 including ports, drivers, and speaker terminals.

 

hmmmm...well they could mean 3.5" diameter and 10" deep for a circular port, but i doubt that. i think with that much power the manufacturer would recommend a bigger port. I think you should just make the ports like mine, maybe a little less deep, like 10" like it says and keep them 3.5" wide. I prefer regular ports over circular anyways. and remember, to get clean sound, round all the edges of the port on the outside where the air exits and also on the inside board....it will definitely decrease the actualy noise coming from the ports and will increase airflow, allowing for better bass.

and 5 ft. cubed? lol mine is about 6

 

and thanks for the compliment man! awesome box too, I wish I had something like that, unfortunately a regular box already eats up 95% of my trunk......haha those ports actually look really good with that setup in there

 

Dont forget that my subs are only 600 WRMS, not 700 or 750(whatever the L7's are). That may be why I need a smaller box.

Yeah I dont know about the ports. Im gonna call the company today. If it is supposed to be a 3.5" Diameter x 10" depth, I used a circle to square port caclulator and it is ALOT bigger. It was like 3" wide, 12" long and like 28" deep for the slot port. The ports are tuned to be around 37.22 Hz also(what the manual calls for)

Also my F3 is very low around 22 with this setup. As you said before, SPL FTW!!!!

Yours is 6 ft^3? What do your drivers call for? like how much air does each sub call for? Mine only call for 1.75 ft^3 each.

Also how much air space does your driver itself takeup? I was guessing around .3 ft^3 each, so I added an extra .6 or .7 ft^3

So heres my calculations:

Vents were .5 ft^3 each, so 1 ft^3 total
Drivers were .3 ft^3 each, so .6 ft^3 total
Each sub calls for 1.75 ft^3 each, so 3.5 ft^3 total

Add it all up and it comes to around 5.1 ft^3 but I making it about 5.25 ft^3 for errors and the terminals.

The total box dimensions are: 35W x 14.5H x 18D (ALL INSIDE DIAMETER)

So, (35*14.5*18)/1728 = 5.28 ft^3

How did you fit your box in the trunk? Because I made a mockup box from cardboard today and it is cutting it close but I believe will fit.

 

Also, Today I will have pics up haha. Once IO get off work I know i plugged the camera in last night so it will be ready today

 

Well I called maxxsonics today to get the vent cleared up and he have me the new specs and told me that the manual I had is obsolete lol so I got the new specs off of him and the box is a little bigger and the vent is pretty large also. But either way, today I will start building and will get pics!

 

what do you mean by F3? haha

my subs need 3.25 ft^3 for maximum SPL, NOT including the volume of the port itself. honestly, I just made the box as big as I possibly could because I knew i wouldnt be able to fit 6.75 ft^3 or so in the trunk. and im not sure how much air space the subwoofer takes up, but again, the box most likely still isn't as big as the max dimensions.

my boxes dimensions are: 36"W x 14"H x 24"D and like i said, it BARELY fit in my trunk. i didnt make a mock up cardboard box, although I have done this is the past for other boxes. I literally had to kick it into my trunk. see, what I forgot was that I was carpeting it. I made the wood dimensions to be as big as the car would take, but after adding carpet, 2 layers, it made the outside dimensions a bit bigger! It was hard getting it in there but it is NOT coming out! it is definitely a 2 person job taking it out, because it was a 2 person job putting it in! and heres a little hint that will help you out. put the box in WITHOUT the subs in or amp attached (if you are screwing amp to box) because it will be much lighter and easier to manhandle trying to get it in there. if you think you cant fit a drill in there because the front of the box is too close to the edge of the trunk, buy a 1/4" hex right angle adapter. heres a pic: http://www.wassco.com/prodimagefolde...-07-968510.jpg
i have almost the same one....they are about 30 bucks but REALLY come in handy!

if you want, you can take a look at my manual to see everything I had to work with....its the S12L7: http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-suppor...0c01%20web.pdf

also.....WAITING FOR PICS MAN!!!!